Help me pick an axle...

[JnJ]

Think about that one for a second. 8.25's didn't appear till 91 when Chrysler got jeep because its the same axle in the Dakota's.

Yeah GM 10bolt 14bolt combo... Thats realistic for a 4 cylinder. sure he'll never break again because hell be to busy replacing clutches from buring them up trying to move the weight of those axles.
Whats the most in-expensive solution for the gutless 4banger. everyone recomends an 8.8 or a D44. Disc brakes bla bla bla... do the math.
you can get 1541h shafts for the m35 that are 20-25% stronger than OEM. with a 31" tire thats pretty stout. add an ezlocker for a couple bucks is a good option. truss it because the m35 can flex and kill any locker. sure its not the hundreds or even $1000 of dollars that everyone is suggesting. the problem with the 8.8 is that the diff is big and hangs down a bit. same goes for the 8.25 which is a rock snagger. the D44 is good but maybe a bit overkill. the 35 can be built reliably well for the owners intended use for not a buttload of coin.

Ya, but if you read his post, he already has a 8.25, I would never recommend someone DOWN grade from what they already have. I'd run the 8.25 with 4.65 before running a Turdy five with 4.88s.

 

[mgolden]

Okay, here's an "out there" solution...

Isuzu 12 bolt, from an '88-95. Stronger than a d44, came with 4.56s and disc brakes stock. Put 4.56s in your d30 instead of 4.88s (unless they're already in there, then forget this)... There isn't that much difference between 4.56s and 4.88s and you can get a strong axle and save some major coin.

The only downside to this axle is that nobody makes a lunchbox locker for it. And they're 6-bolt wheels, so you'd have to redrill or find an adaptor.

 

[Oatmeal]

Chrysler 8 3/4" out of a mid '70s B body (s/w is perfect)! Same wheel bolt pattern, big brakes (11"x 2 1/2"), endless gear selections, plenty of locker options, 30 spline axles, removable carrier, only 3/8" narrower, parking brakes hook right up and cheap! Check this out: http://www.autohobbydigest.com/8_75.html ...........Hans

 

[Russ Pottenger]

Good info Hans. Have been Drag Racing 8 3/4 for years. Great Choice

 

[woody431]

Look in the classifieds for an 8.25 that someone is selling. Most of them can be had fairly cheap and sometimes you can get pretty good deals on some that are locked and geared.

 

[JnJ]

Look in the classifieds for an 8.25 that someone is selling. Most of them can be had fairly cheap and sometimes you can get pretty good deals on some that are locked and geared.

READ! He has already stated twice that he HAS a 8.25!!

 

[Mrburns]

just stick with a D35...you can find 4.88s on all forums for them cheap...I ran a D35 on my xj w/35s for like 2yrs...never broke anything....its all how soft on the skinny pedal you are.... so you can spend like $250 for a d35 w 4.88s.

depending on where your located, i'll give you a d35...and have a buddy selling 4.88s for it...

:wave:

 

[CameronB]

Chrysler 8 3/4" out of a mid '70s B body (s/w is perfect)! Same wheel bolt pattern, big brakes (11"x 2 1/2"), endless gear selections, plenty of locker options, 30 spline axles, removable carrier, only 3/8" narrower, parking brakes hook right up and cheap! Check this out: http://www.autohobbydigest.com/8_75.html ...........Hans

Thanks for that info, I'll have to read up on that. Sounds like a good option.


just stick with a D35...you can find 4.88s on all forums for them cheap...I ran a D35 on my xj w/35s for like 2yrs...never broke anything....its all how soft on the skinny pedal you are.... so you can spend like $250 for a d35 w 4.88s.

depending on where your located, i'll give you a d35...and have a buddy selling 4.88s for it...

I'll keep that in mind if it comes to a 35; I live in WA, near Seattle.



That's one hell of a ride to a trailhead. If I needed 35s and lockers...I don't know if i'd want to hike that

Yeah, fs roads to the trails around here get washed out frequently, and it can take many years before they get up and fix them. Plus, the snow gets deep in winter... so I'll run at least 33s and a rear locker.


I would never consider any gear under 4.88 for a 2.5...I wish I had 5.38s or lower

I agree, I'm set on using 4.88, though I'd like to go lower. Now, it's sitting on axles that are 6.50 with 36s, and it does great. (5 speed)

 

[RKBA]

Another possible low buck solution for this application might be a Ford 9" from a 71-73 Mustang:

• 61.25" WMS to WMS
• These are small bearing and usually 28 spline, but with a 4 cyl and smallish tires I wouldn't be too concerned. Early Bronco guys can run 33s and 302s on axles similar to this without too much carnage.
• 5x4.5 bolt pattern
• Light weight
• fairly easy/cheap to upgrade when/if required
• Brake parts are still readily available and inexpensive

 

[IdahoEagle]

Another overlooked answer to this problem, might be to look for an 84-86 MJ with the Metic Tonne package. They utilized the AMC20. It had one-piece 29 spline shafts, 5 on 4 1/2" bolt circle, bigger drums, and 4.10 gears. You can esily put cheap disc brakes on it, easily regear it, and lock it. If you did it right, you would be into it very much. Like maybe $6-700? It is a strong heavily overlooked rear end. The pinion alone on these is as strong as the D60. They have an 8 7/8" ring gear. Look for a large perfectly round diff cover.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

8.8" - 110$ complete from a wrecking yard.
new disc, pads, & shoes - 75$
gears - 200$ with install kit and new cross pin
Gear install - 200-300$
spring perches and shock mounts - 50$
e-brake cables - 110$
insert locker - 250$
hard brake line parts - 20$
welding of perches & shock mounts - 70$

Now this is a general estimate I would say and you can spend more or less depending on your level of mechanical ability and work you put in to the swap.

But if this is your route then you will not ever have an issue stength and when the time comes to trash / wreck the chassis/body and move on to the next veh, the rear end is sellable for about 500-700$ almost what you have into it (950$).

Just my opinion.

If you went D35 and regeared it and did a lunchbox, carrier change, axles and brake job your still looking at close to the same $, you may save 200$ but is it worth it??


C-CLIPS!?? Come on get real! Prove to me in any fashion where a c-clip has caused any trail issues with strength! And what are you on the arguement of, that when you do break a axle that it will fall out? Well good luck tring to drive or Move on a broken D44 with retaining plates. You will just destroy the axle tube if you try and that will only last a few feet to a mile before the retaining plate collar is destroyed and your fubared anyways.