Help: Ball Joint info- 89 XJ

[fasteddieyj]

hey:

The procedure is in the video. Not sure why the link didn't appear in the first posting. One more try:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VlTff52KQ8

I happened to come across a page in my Haynes manual that showed how to install the spacer. How freaking odd. They don't give you the instructions for how to change the ball joints, telling you to take it to a professional, but tell you how to install the spacer. They actually tell you to install it to a certain depth below the one side of the knuckle.
I do think that a torque spec makes more sense to me than a certain depth, but would certainly go buy the socket to actually be able to check it.

 

[XJBucko]

I've only got one knuckle off so far and the top inset is defiantly flush with the top of the ball joint hole in the knuckle. Seting it a particular depth doesn't make sense to me. Seems to me the ring is to set the proper tension because the tapers may be slightly off (manufacturing tolerances) between ball joint. If you just set the ring at a specified depth, the ball joint could be loose or tight depending on the fit. Who knows? I can't get the old one out so that's still a big problem.

Bigger problem is that I still can't get the dam lower ball joint out.

 

[Corprin]

Would one be able to upgrade to the newer style knuckles without the slit-ring-spacer-thingy?

 

[desertred]

I just finished replacing all four of my ball joints n my 88 XJ. I did not bother to replace the split ring in my steering knuckles. My decision was made easier that my replacement ball joints did not come with a new split ring; let alone all of the rust & crud built up around the old ones that made me wonder weather I would ever get them out. I maybe chancing things, but it can't be to far off from the "redneck" ft-lbs used in the video. The depth of the split ring did measure very close to the spec in the FSM (+/- the crud factor).

 

[XJBucko]

Would one be able to upgrade to the newer style knuckles without the slit-ring-spacer-thingy?

Good question! Are the ball joints the same for both knuckles?

 

[XJBucko]

I just finished replacing all four of my ball joints n my 88 XJ. I did not bother to replace the split ring in my steering knuckles. My decision was made easier that my replacement ball joints did not come with a new split ring; let alone all of the rust & crud built up around the old ones that made me wonder weather I would ever get them out. I maybe chancing things, but it can't be to far off from the "redneck" ft-lbs used in the video. The depth of the split ring did measure very close to the spec in the FSM (+/- the crud factor).

Hey:

Did you use any extraordinary measures to get the ball joints out?

At this point, I'm considering grinding the top off the ball joint and pressing the ball and stud out, then cutting a notch in the side of what's left over then using a chisel to pound the shit out of it until it comes out

 

[desertred]

I was able to use a ball joint press rented from Autozone to get all four of the joints out, although I also had to use a large socket underneath the upper ball joint in conjunction with the press to finish pushing the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. I did have to improvise some increased leverage with the press. For most of the process, I used a 1/2 inch drive swing arm handle with socket on the press. However, on a few of the joints, I had to use a larger/sturdier pipe over the swing arm (I used one half of my two piece hydraulic floor jack handle) to get enough "oomph" to push the joints past the first release point. I also have a very beefy 3/4 inch drive torque wrench that I could have used as well. If I would have tried breaking the ball joints loose using just the 1/2 swing arm, I would have snapped it right in half!

 

[XJBucko]

I've only got one knuckle off so far and the top inset is defiantly flush with the top of the ball joint hole in the knuckle. Seting it a particular depth doesn't make sense to me. Seems to me the ring is to set the proper tension because the tapers may be slightly off (manufacturing tolerances) between ball joint. If you just set the ring at a specified depth, the ball joint could be loose or tight depending on the fit. Who knows? I can't get the old one out so that's still a big problem.

Got the second knuckle off tonight and the spacer is defiantly not even with the top of the ballpoint stud hole on that knuckle

Was finally able to get both inserts out using a impac driver and the adaptor tool. Screwed them both out to the inside of the knuckle. I was able to clean the hole threads up enough that they'll probably work ok with the new inserts. I'm going to take a casual look for a tap big enough to chase the threads but I doubt I'll find one (at least not find one for the $'s I have).

Should I use antizeize on the inserts (inside and out) on re-install or will that screw up the torque values?

Still at a standstill with the ball joints. Tried a third round of heat and hammers- still no luck.

 

[XJBucko]

Finally got the rest of the ball joints out and new ones installed.

Removing the right lower Ball joint was a real treat! The original ball joint hole in the knuckle was cut so close to the 'stepped' edge of the knuckle, there was no room to seat the press tube. I had to use a angle grinder to cut as much of the flanged edge of the ball joint off as I could without damaging the knuckle, then use a Dremmel to nibble enough of the remaining flange off to allow the press to to seat. Added an extra hour and a half to the job!