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Good headlight harness?

Just hit a deer on new year's eve. Total blower especially after just putting in a new oem radiator and some e-code headlights. Only a couple days old....
 
magimerlin:

just wondering why you came off the alternator for your +12vdc power to the relays rather then straight off the battery?



As a side note I used the gojeep and the fitchva walkthrough as guides when I built mine (I made a few little changes here and there) and I am convinced my setup is a lot beefier and better made then any aftermarket kit for less price... I'd reconsider building a harness if I were you.

I didn't that is just the diagram the I used. When I made mine I went off the battery and not the alternator. But either would work.
 
Problem with the universal kits is the extra length mentioned and where to get rid of it as they make them to suit wide pickups etc. Not only that but the longer the wire the more the voltage drop so a real waste.
 
I made my harness using the Go-jeep plans. The biggest hitch is that the headlight terminals on the new sockets I bought will not accept 10 ga wire at all. It's not good to splice to a smaller lead wire, but at least they are factory crimped. Mine keep working out.

I did my own, best mod ever no need for HID as for the new sockets I bought some super cheap terminals with needle thin wires ( probably used for a moped) took off the wires & installed my own.
 
Just hit a deer on new year's eve. Total blower especially after just putting in a new oem radiator and some e-code headlights. Only a couple days old....


I feel your pain - did exactly the same thing a few months ago. Lost a three core rad and one Hella, now have to find a condensor too. The grille shell was the easiest part.

I will now have the opportunity to wire in correct terminals, just waiting on the next incentive check from Uncle Sugar . . .
 
Problem: lack of tasty meat at the supermarket
Problem: deer in your header panel (or lap)
Problem: 2 AM boredom

Solution? 30-30 and legalized spotlighting!

On a more relevant note: yeah, extra length is an issue. I went with Autopal H4s (love them!) and looking back in there, two things are clear: wimpy stock wiring, no room to be coiling up an extra 2 feet of 10 ga wire. I'd be tempted to make my own.
In fact, I am tempted to make my own - as soon as I find a wire vender in Park City who can sell me what I need.
 
Let me take another swing at this. Fitch has a good write up with where to buy the stuff to make the harness. I follow this when I made my, no problems and works great.
http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=57
Great guy to work with, I need help on his switch box and he got back to me right away with great answers.:patriot:

lies! all lies! everyone knows i'm a jerk :dunce:

come awn man, i have a reputation to uphold! ;)
 
All this talk about extra wire......couldn't you just cut the un-needed wire out of the harness and simply solder back together???
I don't see the big deal.....seriously c'mon.
 
more like stupid.
if you know how to solder, wtf are you doing buying a wire harness that wont fit?

Ahaha, funny stuff. I'm an industrial electrician for Exide, the worlds largest battery company... and I still ordered a kit.

I'm getting the kit because as of right now, I dont have the time to make one or to find the H4 pigtails.
I'll make my own later, I just needed a prototype.
Money isn't an issue.

To each his own.
 
Ahaha, funny stuff.

************
I'm getting the kit because as of right now, I dont have the time to make one or to find the H4 pigtails.
I'll make my own later, I just needed a prototype.
************
To each his own.

My thoughts almost to a T... It's also easier and quicker to just cut off part of the kit you don't need and make those adjustments. At least in my opinion it is... assuming the kit you buy is of high quality and you have the parts needed to make the 'adjustments' to the existing kit to make it fit better.

I'll keep following this post so please (anyone who bought the kit) post a follow-up when you get yours and install it. :)
 
My thoughts almost to a T... It's also easier and quicker to just cut off part of the kit you don't need and make those adjustments. At least in my opinion it is... assuming the kit you buy is of high quality and you have the parts needed to make the 'adjustments' to the existing kit to make it fit better.

I'll keep following this post so please (anyone who bought the kit) post a follow-up when you get yours and install it. :)

finally someone with brain waves........
 
if theres extra, I'll coil it up, and zip tie it somewhere out of the way.

BOO HOO ITS NOT A 100% PERFECT FIT FOR MY JEEP IM GONNA CRY ABOUT IT. i'm far too lazy to make a harness myself, even though im fully capable of doing so. if i did, it would be a mess, it wouldnt be all fancy and heatshrinked with all the wires in a fancy loom like this cheap one i just bought.

USPS tracking says it should be here today, i'll post pics if/when it comes
 
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its roughly 65" from H4 plug to H4 plug, and around 30" or so after that to plug in the relays, get power from the battery, and on trigger from the original harness. its uber chinaman but looks good to me. ill put it on tomorrow since its raining here

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poorly interpreted instructions included.

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Good luck on the coil up and zip tie it out of the way. We only mentioned it because there is no room around the back of the headlights. I've got a front grille header on saw horses, the terminals literally stick out of the back, and the lense is barely recessed. All that bolts directly to the radiator support. If no holes were cut in it, it wouldn't go.

Getting the wiring pulled back out and looping the excess at the battery would work, of course, but as the kits have up to three feet of wire, a good electrician could easily cut the excess and solder. 12DCV wiring always deteriorates over time, and excess length contributes to voltage drop, but I don't see you having a problem.

It's those of us who are soldering-challenged that are whining - never have got that work.
 
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