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Front Coilover Mounting

yea, the summit springs work fine, i have the same ones. they broke in and settled almost an inch after a couple runs, but so did my king springs in the rear. my guess is they're probably made in the same factory.
with about a 770lb corner weight, 225/375, and 50% droop, i have my preload screwed down about 3" from the top of the threads.
 
Still waiting on the coilovers... Hopefully they'll show up this week and I can get started mounting them this weekend. I got all the stiffeners welded up, moved some stuff out of the way under the hood and torched out the stock coil buckets. Now I just need the shocks!
 
I want to know without offending anyone, I would honestly not want to offend anyone! Please explain the logic in cutting up and possibly weakening at one point and/or strengthening at another unibody vehicle suspension mounts. Whats wrong with coils? If we are not racing or showing custom cars, coils work great and can also be built with secondary weight specifications into the winding. Their forgiving, smooth, CHEAP and will stretch if clamped but they can be restricted with limit straps, not to mention almost impossible to break one or a mount. If you break a mount or eye on a coil over your done. Coil and shock set up run approx. $200.00 $300.00 per corner while $600.00 plus for anything descent in a coil over, not to mention having to cut and relocate/remove items like your air box which is needed for smog, then the cost and time reinforcing the unibody in a limited space engine compartment. Then hopefully not ever having to have them rebuilt from wear or if you blow one out. I just don't think you gain as much as you sacrifice when the rides and travel can be comparable. In all sincerity Please help me understand, these are not race vehicles. Dan in your case I can understand, you do some high speed crawling! LOL OH I know they look cool too but, so does a winch and bumper you can get for the same as one set of coil overs!
 
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As I mentioned in my third or fourth post, the reason I'm doing it is because the coils just won't work with the amount of travel that I have and the geometry of my setup. Not saying it hasn't been, or can't be done, but when you start talking 15" or so of actual wheel travel, things can change quite a bit over that range. For me, it's purely a packaging issue. I have had many different configurations for front end brackets and geometry, and honestly I'm sick of changing it to make everything work together the way I want. Everything behaves the way I want it to with my current setup, but the lower coil buckets have angle problems. There are ways around it with pivoting lower mounts etc. but coilovers will be a much cleaner and better performing setup in my opinion.
Initially I had the Rock Krawler 3-link with stock brackets. Not great for the lowers and the upper wouldn't work as the pinion u-joint would hit the upper arm at full stuff. So I cut every bracket off the axle and started over. I went with a truss and tied a new upper mount into that, raising it a few inches so it would clear the driveshaft. I also went OTK steering/ trackbar and extended the wheelbase a couple inches. This of course changed the geometry of my front end, and the consequence of that was the coil problem that I'm facing now.
For me, the pinion angle was set to change with travel, keeping it pointed at the t-case at all times. As you can imagine, with the drivers side at full droop and the passenger side at full compression, the axle was rotated considerably to maintain the pinion angle. The passenger side coil wasn't even close to tolerating the angle. It was basically an "S" shape and the traditional bumpstop inside the coil wasn't going to work either, since you have totally different lower coil mount angles with full flex vs. full comp. or droop of both sides at the same time. Full comp of both sides was ok, but that hardly ever happens the way I use my rig.
Then you have the lower mounts shifting forward and aft as the lower arms cycle. I guess I'm just a stickler, and I feel that the coilovers will get rid of the kinked coils and packaging problems that I've been having. Sure, there are other ways to get it to work out again, but I didn't want to build any more axle brackets (except new lower mounts for the c/o's) and coilovers with spherical bearings should do the trick nicely. It's all part of the game I guess.
As for cost, the FOA's with remote reservoirs, 90 degree swivels and dual rate hardware were only about $450 shipped for the pair. The springs were about $140, so the total for the pair is still less than $600. Not much more than a set of decent coils and decent shocks... Whether or not you consider FOA's "decent" or not is another story, but for my use and the cost I think they will be fine. I'm not looking to get into that debate though, they are already paid for Hasta


Oh yeah, what's SMOG? We don't have that up here:gee:
 
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I see your reason well! Even more so having gone thru several set ups and that is good for the coil over cost. I was seeing what they get at the offroad shops for them and thought they needed some gold plating. I guess I was lucky the 1st time around when I built my 1st one in 92 with Bronco V8 with 9" an HP44 and used the radius arms. Since I've tubed and sleeved the arms added Johnnies to them and reloaded them under a 95 (couldn't get smog on the 85 V8 powered). I understand and I may that route when I do the 85 V8 and just off road sticker it. I'll watch this post and I did like the Pirate write up that posted earlier on here! Thanx good building.
 
Not much up here other than some light rain and a bit of wind. Southern Maine was a little worse, but still nothing major. Looks like NJ, NY and further south got the worst of it so far. We are supposed to see some more this week, but I don't think it'll amount to much here, as seems to be the case with most things, other than snow!
 
Well good seems you guys dodged a bullet with all the flooding that occurred. My son is in the Coast Guard and was transferred from Virginia to Staten Island. He was given leave before Sandy hit Virginia but not due to report till next week. Seems he dodged one too! Good luck with the build!
 
you do realize that a good set of shocks costs the same as coilovers, right? literally the same thing aside from the threaded body. you can convert shocks to coilovers by ordering the threaded body. expanded and collapsed lengths are the same, so really, you need to do some heavy modifying if you want to fit in a 12" shock with low lift and still have some uptravel anyways. i paid $130 for a set of 4 springs, so it's still ballpark the same as coils and shocks. i have 630 into my front end. buy some good dual rate springs and rebuildable/revalvable remote res shock for that... not going to be easy and still wont work as well. the tunability and packaging alone was enough to justify the coilovers. it just works better.
 
I get it but when I 1st started in the hobby Coil overs were ridiculous and only one or two companies made them. The other thing I see is mount surface for pressure of suspension spread out over a greater surface other than one square inch of mount for the coil overs. This means much greater strength modification to the chassis/unibody which when limited creates greater stress on the smaller surface of the chassis/unibody. Believe me I'm just passing time on this because both set ups are comparable and arguable. It is fun to fabricate and remain street legal. For me I'd just cut it tube it and trailer it if I was going to spend the money and time to go coil over, which is my plan for my 1985 Boss powered V8 XJ. But I want to register it in AZ where they allow street legal sand rails to roam around in!
 
it's really not that much work, and there is a considerable improvement. dont knock it till you try it.
if they werent any better, you'd see coil springs in competition vehicles that don't have class restrictions on what type of setups you can use.
 
I'm not knocking it, I'm just understanding the benefits, or negatives, maintenance as well as monetary and structure reinforcement wise. As far as works better, again that's very debatable in a non competitive situation such as racing which demands support and shock oil cooling. There does not seem to be any greater benefit on either set up. I just know there's younger guys in here starting out and don't want them to think that wheeling is that much better or worse with or without coils overs, if your not racing. You also mentioned tuning. Have you ever tried over the counter Rancho 9000 shocks with the in cab selectable set up. You can switch from soft to firm while driving on the trail or on the highway. That's tunebillity on the fly for everyday or trail driving. I've done the Baja thing (friends Throphy truck), had a 7S in La Rana, done the Mickey Thompson Stadium with a friends super 1600 buggie and kids always go for the coil over look and not all of them can afford to do it correctly or even know why they put them on. I think this thread clears any doubt that it's just preference. Neither is better or worse for XJ application!
 
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we'll have to agree to disagree. having actually driven an xj with coilovers, i can honestly say dollar for dollar it both crawls and goes fast much better than a coil/leaf spring setup.
 
Coil overs look awesome, and what gives them real benefit is the ease of packaging and tuneability.

But a coil/shock combo can work just as well or better. 90% of it is how they are set up and how well they are tuned.

Disagree? Talk to these guys. They are kicking ass and taking names without coil overs.
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The battle of the n00bs!
are properly set up coilovers better? Yes
are poorly setup coilovers better? Debatable.
you get what you pay for with shocks.
I seriously doubt a set of ranchos will outperform my 7100's, bu

Would i love some 9500s? Yes, but wayy out of my budget
 
if they werent in modified stock class i doubt they'd be running coils.....
 
if they werent in modified stock class i doubt they'd be running coils.....

I disagree. They are moving from stock to mod class and they are not switching to coil overs. They are adding bypasses, but sticking with the currie coils.
 
That said... I'd put coil overs in the rear before the front. Only so much you can do with leafs.
 
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