Front axle problem...

[Ben H]

U-joint, ujoint, axle, "dana 30 u-joint", "popping front axle". For later search


Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for posting the conclusion.

 

[IslanderXJ]

solution- yes
fixed- uh kinda...
got the busted u-joint off my axle, but I couldn't get the u-joint off my spare axle soooo.... (Its stuck, I can't even get it back together, for now) I'm goin to napa tomorow to get a new spicer u-joint.
Heres some info on u-joints taken from Yucca-Man's Website (http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/history.html#body)

XJ driveshaft u-joints (F+R) are Spicer 1310, aka Spicer 5-153X
Axle u-joints, 5-297x and the older 5-260x are c-clip retained and the 1310s are snap ring retained.
The 5-297x can be upgraded to a stronger 5-760x, using the same axleshafts.

5-260x u-joints are 1 1/16" diameter across the cap.
5-297x u-joints are 1 3/16" diameter across the cap.

 

[goodburbon]

glad to hear you figured it out

 

[Ben H]

solution- yes
fixed- uh kinda...
got the busted u-joint off my axle, but I couldn't get the u-joint off my spare axle soooo.... (Its stuck, I can't even get it back together, for now) I'm goin to napa tomorow to get a new spicer u-joint.
Heres some info on u-joints taken from Yucca-Man's Website (http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/history.html#body)

XJ driveshaft u-joints (F+R) are Spicer 1310, aka Spicer 5-153X
Axle u-joints, 5-297x and the older 5-260x are c-clip retained and the 1310s are snap ring retained.
The 5-297x can be upgraded to a stronger 5-760x, using the same axleshafts.

5-260x u-joints are 1 1/16" diameter across the cap.
5-297x u-joints are 1 3/16" diameter across the cap.

I think there is a "Coast Clutch and Brake" in SLO. Take it to them. Sometimes you just need a 20 ton press to get them in. They shouldnt charge more than $20 to put it in. It may be worth saving the ears on your shafts. I would also change the other side while you have it out.

 

[IslanderXJ]

Problem solved, no more front end vibes/clunking sound.
It was for a fact the drivers side U-Joint bushings and one of the cap/bearing assemblys was damaged:

EDIT: borrowed a 2/3 arm bearing puller/press thing from autozone, it worked perfect!

 

[wall04]

Yeah, I went weeling in Wyoming last weekend with the swaybar disconnected and I have the exact same problem you described. In my case, the drag link to tie rod heim is also catching on the bottom of the JKS QD real bad. I looked underneath and also found this:

And...

I just hope I don't have anything more serious going on. When I turn the wheel hard over to the left the wheels really don't move until I roll a little forward and hear a cluck (crash) and then they start to turn. I hope this is the only issue...

 

[IslanderXJ]

Youe need a new U-joint.. bad.

 

[wall04]

Youe need a new U-joint.. bad.

Man, I just hope that's all I need at this point. I suspect steering damage also.:dunno:

 

[Bob Myers]

I've heard some weird ways to test for a chain problem but that one tops the chart at useless.

 

[IslanderXJ]

I've heard some weird ways to test for a chain problem but that one tops the chart at useless.

The park and power one?
Why would it be useless?

 

[Bob Myers]

If I read it right you put the Tcase in hi4, right? On any surface, right? If I am presuming this to be correct I can imagine someone trying this in their driveway(asphalt, concrete) with all 4 wheels on the same surface, and the chain only driving the front set how is it going to slip?

 

[ILLXJ]

In my case, the drag link to tie rod heim is also catching on the bottom of the JKS QD real bad.
...

Little off-topic, but here is how I fixed that problem. JIM.

 

[wall04]

Little off-topic, but here is how I fixed that problem. JIM.

Nice! Thanks for the pic! I may have had this going on before the wheeling trip. It would pop once in a while and I just thought it was the bump stop catching on the spring or a control arm that needed to be tightened, etc. I went through all the bolts about three times. I had the wife turn the wheel while I looked around (suspected steering box damage after the wheeling trip) and noticed the heim and the QD issue.

I see the bolt, but did you also weld that plate to keep it from rotating (I assume yes)?

Thanks!!

 

[vetteboy]

I've heard some weird ways to test for a chain problem but that one tops the chart at useless.

I always just put in in 4-lo and floor it...lets you know real quick if something is wrong. :roll:

 

[Ben H]

I've heard some weird ways to test for a chain problem but that one tops the chart at useless.

Thats how I check to see if a 231 chain is stretched. It works. I am interested in the other weird ways to test for a stretched t-case chain you speek of, short of splitting the t-case for the sake of tech.

 

[ILLXJ]

I see the bolt, but did you also weld that plate to keep it from rotating (I assume yes)?
Thanks!!

Nope, no welds. I keep meaning to. It has been that way for over a year. Your Welcome. JIM.