? for those that have built their own winch bumpers

[rockclimber]

looks like the Warn fairlead I have.

 

[SkinnyRidgeMJ]

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Hawse-Winch-Fairlead-Standard/dp/B007JMTPQW#productDetails

 

[kastein]

Worth noting... only use that with steel cable. Do not use that with synthetic, you should be using an aluminum or roller fairlead only for synthetic.

Also, especially when using synthetic line, don't do anything that could chew the fairlead up, because the burrs will cut the line up. It's a lot less critical with steel cable.

 

[Lowrange2]

Forgot to add, I'm in the middle of building another hidden winch bumper for my trail Jeep. Not quite finished yet but you get the point. I still have to cut the hole for the line, add shackle tabs throught the bumper and finish welding it up.

Instead of modifying a piece of 2x6 like Ken and SkinnyRidge did I a had a sheet of 3/16 sheet put into a press break and make a piece of 6.5 x 2 C-channel then went from there.

That reminds me! I need an offset fairlead so that I can use the bottom two winch mounting bolts instead of figuring another way to mount it.

I've found one for $60 and one for $140.

I guess my broke ass is going to have to go with the $60 one.

http://www.southeastoverland.com/in...mart_product_id=132&virtuemart_category_id=15

I guess I could drill a couple more holes in the one I have...

 

[kastein]

I would do that in a second if anyone I knew had a press brake big enough for 3/16 or 1/4 :gee:

 

[Lowrange2]

I would do that in a second if anyone I knew had a press brake big enough for 3/16 or 1/4 :gee:

I live about 2 miles from a place privately owned steel fab shop. I usually get a decent deal up there. They charged me $65.00 for a 7' piece of 6.5 x 2" 3/16" C-channel. Not horrible since that's all I have in the entire bumper so far.

 

[xpedition xj-eh!]

Very nice. I like the angles on the ends. Now to figure out where to get some plate bent.

 

[techno1154]

Instead of modifying a piece of 2x6 like Ken and SkinnyRidge did I a had a sheet of 3/16 sheet put into a press break and make a piece of 6.5 x 2 C-channel then went from there.

You are doing exactly what I have in mind to do when I get around to making my winch bumper. I however, would make mine 7" instead of 6.5" and mount the winch feet down on an independent mounting system.

Great work. I like it.

 

[xpedition xj-eh!]

You are doing exactly what I have in mind to do when I get around to making my winch bumper. I however, would make mine 7" instead of 6.5" and mount the winch feet down on an independent mounting system.

Great work. I like it.

I'm trying to picture what you describe... wouldn't it be hard to access the clutch lever?

 

[techno1154]

I'm trying to picture what you describe... wouldn't it be hard to access the clutch lever?

The bumper will be pulled forward 3 to 4" and an access/removable panel fitted over the winch.

 

[Lowrange2]

You are doing exactly what I have in mind to do when I get around to making my winch bumper. I however, would make mine 7" instead of 6.5" and mount the winch feet down on an independent mounting system.

Great work. I like it.

Thought about that originally...

I'm trying to picture what you describe... wouldn't it be hard to access the clutch lever?

Then I thought of this.

The bumper will be pulled forward 3 to 4" and an access/removable panel fitted over the winch.

Then I decided to do it the way that I did because I wanted the best approach angle possible, after all that was the whole purpose of building this new bumper.

I still have to cut the hole for the fairlead but I finished up 95% of the bumper last night.

 

[FG Jeep]

This is the bumper I built. It has a very recessed winch mount that sits in front of the crossmember. It has not effected my approach angle at all as it is tucked in tight to the front of the jeep. Since I relocated the solenoid box under hood it doesn't sit above the grille at all anymore. This is a older pic with the solenoid box still on top of the winch.

It is a combo or plate and rectangular and square tubing.

 

[kmanxj5050]

Re: Re: ? for those that have built their own winch bumpers

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Hawse-Winch-Fairlead-Standard/dp/B007JMTPQW#productDetails

I need this!

My fair lead is what kills how far my winch hangs out

 

[rockclimber]

Worth noting... only use that with steel cable. Do not use that with synthetic, you should be using an aluminum or roller fairlead only for synthetic.

Also, especially when using synthetic line, don't do anything that could chew the fairlead up, because the burrs will cut the line up. It's a lot less critical with steel cable.

You can use a steel hawse with synthetic.


A chewed up hawse, alum or steel will not be good for a synthetic line regardless. But a steel one in good shape isn't going to hurt it.

 

[kastein]

True. That steel hawse I have had some forging roughness to it that I wouldn't like to see against a synthetic line, but a bit of filing sanding and polishing would solve that problem.

 

[techno1154]

This is the bumper I built. It has a very recessed winch mount that sits in front of the crossmember. It has not effected my approach angle at all as it is tucked in tight to the front of the jeep. Since I relocated the solenoid box under hood it doesn't sit above the grille at all anymore. This is a older pic with the solenoid box still on top of the winch.

It is a combo or plate and rectangular and square tubing.

This is another excellent bumper. Like you, I do not see much if any loss of approach angle unless your are into extreme rock crawling. Looking at the OEM front of the XJ in its un-molested state, the bumper measures 8" top to bottom (measuring the back of the bumper). The radiator cross member hangs below the bumper by about another 2" for a total of 10 inches +/- .

A well designed bumper fitted with a winch that have a clocked clutch/control handle requires about 8" total height and I am sure it could be less. So if the bumper measures 8" top to bottom like the OEM the winch could fit inside it. Then push the bumper forward the very minimum needed which included having the front of the winch inside the channel (I am assuming you use channel iron) you will only need to push the entire bumper forward as far as the plastic things (whatever the name is) hanging onto the front of the bumper which would put the new bumper about 3" forward of the OEM unit. The OEM cross member will still be below the winch bumper.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913839&page=2

Halfway down page 2 and continuing would give you and idea of what I am talking about.