Since both numbers on the case are the same they are sold as the same item regardless of whether it uses a snow plow or not. Autozone doesn't even differentiate the difference between plow or not. I know about 6 people that have gone with the Durango box and 2 of them got 'lucky' to get the 3.5 turns.
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Durango Steering Mod
- Thread starter Frank Z
- Start date
Since both numbers on the case are the same they are sold as the same item regardless of whether it uses a snow plow or not. Autozone doesn't even differentiate the difference between plow or not. I know about 6 people that have gone with the Durango box and 2 of them got 'lucky' to get the 3.5 turns.
- Location
- Aberdeen, MD
yea I'd say getting reman parts from vatozone is a crapshoot on which box you'll get - they won't differentiate between the boxes if they're stamped with the same case #. Only way to get the correct one the first time is to pull it yourself. And as stated a 99 will always have the right box
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
unless it's been replaced with a reman purchased at nearly any parts store, it seems. I checked rockauto and one of the reman companies thinks that a 98 box and a 99 box are the same thing, so you can still get unlucky.
All I can suggest is to take it out of the box when you are at the parts store and check if it's got the right number of turns lock to lock before buying it.
All I can suggest is to take it out of the box when you are at the parts store and check if it's got the right number of turns lock to lock before buying it.
boomhauer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver Island
The parts store where i purchased both gears (Lordco), didn't list the plow as an option and said there was only one choice #277588. i tracked down the plow option part # 277580 (98 only) and had them bring it in.
The parts i tested were A1-Cardone. If you use part# 277580 (plow) you "should" end up with the correct box. Do not use part# 277588 as this is the box with the 2 15/16. you can see the specs of the gears online at NAPA.
i disagree with the folks who say that the non-plow is correct. even if i did do the mod to increase the throw on the first box, i still would not have the power that the plow box has. its literally night and day, extremely noticeable. there is no point doing the durango box mod with the 99 non-plow gear as the upgrade is minimal at best.
Thus, use part #277580 and ensure the # of turns (3 3/8) is correct and you'll be good to go. -B
The parts i tested were A1-Cardone. If you use part# 277580 (plow) you "should" end up with the correct box. Do not use part# 277588 as this is the box with the 2 15/16. you can see the specs of the gears online at NAPA.
i disagree with the folks who say that the non-plow is correct. even if i did do the mod to increase the throw on the first box, i still would not have the power that the plow box has. its literally night and day, extremely noticeable. there is no point doing the durango box mod with the 99 non-plow gear as the upgrade is minimal at best.
Thus, use part #277580 and ensure the # of turns (3 3/8) is correct and you'll be good to go. -B
- Location
- Encinitas, Ca
I just installed a rebuilt Durango box from Napa and can feel some lateral slop in the sector shaft. I measure .017" lateral play. What's acceptable?
There's no adjustment for this, right?
There's no adjustment for this, right?
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
I rebuild a lot of steering boxes. You would not believe the horror stories I hear about reman'd boxes. One guy pulled a just purchased box apart to tap and there were not the same number of small and large balls. I have gotten probably a dozen core boxes that when I took them apart didn't even have all the balls. Most boxes do not get a fresh set of bearings when they get reman'd. They just clean them up and put new seals in, without new bearings. Heck you can't even buy a rebuild kit for the newer boxes that includes bearings. That is why I pay less for new boxes than Renix boxes, be cause I have to buy an early kit to get the bearings and a later kit to get the correct seals. The newer boxes also where cheapened to eliminate one of the seals on the pitman arm shaft.
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- Location
- Encinitas, Ca
So in your opinion, having rebuilt a lot of boxes, is the one I have with .017" lateral play a keeper? I can take it back and swap it for another one, but sounds like that'll be a crap shoot.
- Location
- Aberdeen, MD
I'm not sure of the specs for the sector shaft play, and a quick search didn't yield anything. That being said 0.017" of lateral play doesn't sound like anything I'd be too worried about. The only way to adjust this would be to take the box apart and change the shim around the sector shaft positioning screw.
and old man is correct about the reman boxes - I never recommend them either simply because there is no control over them - plow/non-plow boxes get mixed up all the time especially, and the rebuild process is crap most of the time. I always tell people just to find a good one to pull from a junkyard - they're almost guaranteed to be OEM.
and old man is correct about the reman boxes - I never recommend them either simply because there is no control over them - plow/non-plow boxes get mixed up all the time especially, and the rebuild process is crap most of the time. I always tell people just to find a good one to pull from a junkyard - they're almost guaranteed to be OEM.
- Location
- Encinitas, Ca
Thanks for the feedback. I really don't want to dig into the box. I'll just keep an eye on it and see if it gets worse.
Heck, if I knew about the crap shoot with reman boxes before I started, I would've gotten a JY one.
Heck, if I knew about the crap shoot with reman boxes before I started, I would've gotten a JY one.
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
If by laterial you mean slop side to side of the shaft, yes I think that is too much. Just how were you pushing it side to side?
- Location
- Encinitas, Ca
Didn't want to hear that. Not really looking forward to swapping it out again, especially since the reman ones are iffy.
Yes, side to side slop. I measured with the dial indicator in the photo and ever so slightly turning the input shaft both directions with the steering wheel. As soon as the sector shaft starts to move, it moves ~.017" total, side to side.
Yes, side to side slop. I measured with the dial indicator in the photo and ever so slightly turning the input shaft both directions with the steering wheel. As soon as the sector shaft starts to move, it moves ~.017" total, side to side.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
You're measuring off the forged surface of the pitman arm, that could be a problem - it is not machined at all, nevermind concentric with the center of the sector shaft. If it's turning even ever so slightly, it can throw your readings off just from the surface roughness of the forging. Not sure about 17 thou, but I wouldn't be surprised if at least 5 thou of that is from this.
I would get a spare pitman nut, surface one end of it slightly in a lathe till it's perfectly round, install it, then measure radial play with the dial indicator attached to the body of the steering box and the tip riding on the turned surface of the pitman nut. Much more of a pain in the ass, but will give you a very accurate reading.
I would get a spare pitman nut, surface one end of it slightly in a lathe till it's perfectly round, install it, then measure radial play with the dial indicator attached to the body of the steering box and the tip riding on the turned surface of the pitman nut. Much more of a pain in the ass, but will give you a very accurate reading.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
^^Indicating off of a rough casting is always suspect and kastein has the answer here. You need a concentric machined surface to incidate.
Personally, 0.017" would not surprise me at all. The critical dimensions on the pitman are the hole center to center and the "Z" offset between the holes. The holes, themselves, do not have to be perfectly centered in the casting.
Personally, 0.017" would not surprise me at all. The critical dimensions on the pitman are the hole center to center and the "Z" offset between the holes. The holes, themselves, do not have to be perfectly centered in the casting.
z06elmo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- United States
I just wanted to add that I upgraded to the part number 277580 plow version. It's the a-1 cardone part number and you can get it from o'reily auto parts for 142 + core charge. I wouldn't say i have exactly 3.5 turns but it's closer to 3 3/8 lock to lock which is good for me. I'm happy with the upgrade. I tried summit racing at first but they were out of stock.
z06elmo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- United States
or you could order the part number I posted?
- Location
- Patterson, Ca
I got the one with the stops and it made wheeling suck. I was about to pull it out and do this mod, until I remembered I had a wagoneer pitman arm in the garage. The added length allows lock to lock steering without dismantling a brand new box. Couldn't be happier with the performance of the Durango box now.
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
i gotta imagine that's not as good as modding the box. you're putting more stress on the steering box and body with a longer pitman. not sure if it's enough to matter, but it still isnt as good as modding the box. you're losing 15% of the gear reduction.
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
i have a durango box built by old_man. im about to put it in, however some reading on here indicates that the pump needs modding. is this in all cases, or just a select few? i'd hate to go through bleeding the system just to find out i have to take the lines off again.
i hate oil messes
ill be doing hydro assist in the not too distant future if that matters.
i hate oil messes
ill be doing hydro assist in the not too distant future if that matters.
