Disconnected UCA, Now Axle Will NOT Line Up.

[1sgtnyg]

This same thing has happened to me,Once I though of the cumalong,I was on the road in ten minutes,easy and as simple as that, didn't have to pull my springs,nothing. Being in the trade I find there are many ways to cut down on repair time, even automotive data companies come out with quicker and easier ways to do things.You must spend a lot of time in your driveway doing things the long way.

I've seen many people "in the trade" mess up a job doing things the quick way also.

 

[bcmaxx]

I've seen many people "in the trade" mess up a job doing things the quick way also.

I have to agree,there is a lot of mickey mouse andhasta hack job mentality out there.

 

[Rick Anderson]

Ok guys, so answer my question.

What is the proper way to line up these bolt holes? Remove the springs?

How difficult is it to remove the springs, is it like I imagined, just disconnecting the track bar and shocks, let the axle hang and remove the keeper tabs? OR do you need to compress the springs as well? Do you get into gotcha's that take up more time?

 

[1sgtnyg]

That was what I was contemplating the last 2 nights, as I tried again and again to line up the holes. If I removed the springs and shocks, I probably would have NO trouble lining up the holes.

If I had 2 sets of spring compressors, I would have tried to compress the springs and see if that took the spring force off.

How hard is it to remove the springs, it look like I just had to disconnect the track bar and support the axle with a jack and then unbolt the keepers and jockey the springs out. Would that had worked as well?

If they are no longer than stock, after unbolting the lower shock mount, and unhooking the anti sway bar, and the spring retainer at the bottom of the spring, they will almost fall out. I've been able to get them out w/out using the compessors. I don't unbolt the track bar unless I really have to. Just support by the frame and let the axle droop.

 

[Rick Anderson]

Yea, then I have to agree.

Now I almost regret it. I was all the way there, just had to pull one more bolt on each side and I would have had the springs out. I would have at least saved the $15 on the Pipe Wrench (but tools are tools, money spent on them are never a waste, unless you buy inferior quality).

Luckily, I did NO damage, just some shallow marks on the axle tube. Although, I was quite fearful of that Pipe Wrench letting go while working, I kept out of the line of fire as best I could while the torque was on that pipe wrench.

 

[Ivan]

....Luckily, I did NO damage, just some shallow marks on the axle tube. Although, I was quite fearful of that Pipe Wrench letting go while working, I kept out of the line of fire as best I could while the torque was on that pipe wrench.

I've seen deeper gouges created by rock rash than what the pipewrench did to your axle tubes. Don't sweat it. I'm still of the belief that a pipewrench is your friend in this situation. Why go through the hassle of removing springs and having to reinstall when all you have to do is torque the axle just a skoosh to line holes up?

Like I mentioned before in dialing in my control arm lengths, the pipe wrench trick made it very easy for me (by myself) with my rig on the ground....YMMV

 

[Tom R.]

Most of the time I can line up the control arm holes by rocking the tire or using a pry bar. And this is doing the task by myself.

By the way, I believe it's easier to hook up the frame side of the control arms first, then do the axle side.