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Dana 60 front and rear bolt ins

Lake919

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mobile, AL
Hey guys, so after going back and forth for the past year, I have decided that I am going to build my XJ "up" instead of buying a JK and doing it to that. I want to run 37's, and I really want 60's front and rear. My question is where I should get them from. I know about ECGS, but I was wondering if you guys knew about other places to possibly look into.

As a side note, I know I will get a lot of flack from the nay Sayers that this is overkill and not to do it, but at the end of the day it's my money and my lesson to learn. It's what I want. Thank in advance guys.
 
Just be aware of what you buy because I believe you can get a D60 with JK outlets and then you no better than where you probably are already. I think the core 60 can come that way if you don't buy the full-size outters specifically. There are many others who could easily sell you bolt in 60 assemblies. Currie, teraflex, dynatrac etc.
 
Why not buy some junkyard 60's and build them for a fraction of the price
 
Dana60s are awesome, but your going to sacrifice a lot of ground clearance. D60s and 37s is the ground clearance equivalent of D30 and 33s. So if you are dead set on running D60s then I would suggest increasing your planned tire size to at least 40s.

OR run some Dynatrac Prorock 44s with the 37s. They will be more than up to the task of 37 inch tires, provide better ground clearance, and put less stress on your uniframe. Or built JK Dana 44s would also be another way to run D44s/37s without the cost of Dynatrac axles. After a truss and C gussets the JK axles are good for 37s and many people sucessfully run 40s on em, but I wouldn't recommend 40s on JK axles.
 
Thanks for the advice. I would gladly run just built 44's if they are up to the task. I really don't want larger than 37's. Prorock 44's may be the ticket. I didn't think about the stress 60's would put on my uniframe.
 
Ok thanks. So just look for TJ axles and they will work with my setup. How would a Prorock 60 front and Prorock 44 rear be as a setup? Or seeing how I am only going 37's, I should be fine with 44's running RCV shafts.
 
Ok thanks. So just look for TJ axles and they will work with my setup. How would a Prorock 60 front and Prorock 44 rear be as a setup? Or seeing how I am only going 37's, I should be fine with 44's running RCV shafts.

60 front and 44 rear? Seems backwards from what most would do
 
If you have the money to buy custom axles that will bolt indo it. But be aware of the jk specific bolt in 60's. They use stock jk outer knuckles. Ball joints may be your weak link. For a similar price you could do 9" axle for the front with 60 outers. And a rear 9" won't break the bank either. Dynatrac pro rock 44 front with the old school knuckles will handle 37s all day on and xj. Either way plan on a long arm kit or custom front setup. And don't skimp on proper reinforcement of the uni body to handle the stress.
 
Why not just get a junkyard 60/60 or 60/14b and have somebody local or a local shop build them? I have less into a pair of well bult 1tons then a buying a single Prorock. Also, 37's on tons is fine. Having run worn Treps that measured more like 35-36", ground clearance wasn't an issue or concern
 
People like to talk ground clearance without looking at the whole picture. A stock hp d30 hangs 4.75" bellow the tubes. With true to size 33's that puts it 10.5" clear at the dif(16.5-4.75-1.25(half the axle tube diameter)) The D60 on 37's would be 10.75" clear at the dif(18.5-6-1.75) But look at the rear axle numbers. A stock lp D44 hangs 5.375" bellow the tubes. That puts that xj on 33's at only 9.625" clear at the dif(16.5-5.375-1.5). Run a 14b shaved to the bottom bolt hole and it only hangs down 5.5" On 37" tires that 14b would be 11.5" clear. So you gain almost 2" at the rear dif and 2" at the tubes front and rear. Being that the front dif is offset near the tire, if you have any driving ability whatsoever you should be able to keep it out of harms way. Not to mention I am way more confident dragging a D60 on the rocks than I am a D30. For the cost of a prorock44, you could build a 14B front axle and gain strength and clearance.
 
People like to talk ground clearance without looking at the whole picture.

Yeah I tell those people; I may drag over rocks but I have a 60 and a 14 bolt :moon:

"I wish I would have kept my Dana 30" said no one ever.

I really hope that didn't come across as mean, it was totally meant to be funny.

Seriously If you are going to spend a ton of money to build a pair of axles I like the Ford 9 center with the d60 outers for the front, then a ford 9 rear. You end up having a very strong center section with better clearance than a 14 bolt and all the strength of a d60/70 front. All the parts except for axle shafts would be fairly easy to get, gears and lockers are easy to find.

The OP was "bolt in" so the short answer is any of the big axle builders, just know that you could source your own used axles and have them modified for a fraction of what Currie etc would charge. (use that money on suspension and/or tools)

Nathan
99 xj with pretty much everything and the cruise control still works
build thread
https://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up
 
So after looking today I found a good deal on a Ford 9" rear from RWK Haus. How well would a Prorock 44 front and Currie 9" rear hold up to 37's and wheeling. I am not a fan of mud, and it will be used primarily as an expedition/backcountry camping rig. I also plan on adding a Clayton coil spring conversion lift and a 4.6L stroker. I am doing frame stiffeners this weekend. Thanks again for all the advice.
 
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