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Dana 44 Tech

i cant take criticism :cry:
 
I've found a rear Waggy 44. What is a good price to offer? I've read they are approx. 2 inches narrower. Would it be okay to use wheel adapters from 6 lug to the standard 5 lug Cherokee pattern. When I bought my Jeep it's got Pacer 7 inch alloy wheels that I would like to keep. ----Bling---Bling. If I read correctly the spring perches will not have to be relocated.
Thanks guys.
Bruce
 
Cox89XJ said:
I've found a rear Waggy 44. What is a good price to offer? I've read they are approx. 2 inches narrower. Would it be okay to use wheel adapters from 6 lug to the standard 5 lug Cherokee pattern. When I bought my Jeep it's got Pacer 7 inch alloy wheels that I would like to keep. ----Bling---Bling. If I read correctly the spring perches will not have to be relocated.
Thanks guys.
Bruce
Click to expand...

How complete is the axle? Are the gears and diff stock? All needed info to get a price.

If its a bone stock waggy axle, in fairly good shape, dont offer more than 200$ for it. Allthough there is quite a few of those available for 100-150, so keep that in mind, don't be afraid to barter.

As far as the adapters and the perch width, Im not 100% sure, might want to search on that. I think the perches are slightly off if I remember correctly, but dont quote me on that.
 
hjeepxj said:
How complete is the axle? Are the gears and diff stock? All needed info to get a price.

If its a bone stock waggy axle, in fairly good shape, dont offer more than 200$ for it. Allthough there is quite a few of those available for 100-150, so keep that in mind, don't be afraid to barter.

As far as the a------- and the p---- w-----, Im not 100% sure, might want to search on that. I think the p----- are slightly off if I remember correctly, but dont quote me on that.
Click to expand...

:D
 
it says "waggy axles" Is there any reason the axles out of an 80's j-10 wouldn't be the same?
 
i have found a complete 1989 grand waggy at a junkyard. dana44 front and rear.

i would much rather post here than start another topic.

-first of all i do not recall seeing an vaccum lines between the housing and the driver side knuckle

-i will be getting either an ARB, OX or a Detroit.

-4.88s or 5.13s superior gears

-tnt truss/brackets

-i have yet to call superior and alloyusa to see if they offer shafts that fit, but they are on my list too

-33tsl radials are sitting at work right now

-i do not have an issue with swapping over to a 6bolt pattern, but if i am able to get an xj44 rear i am at complete loss on how to convert it to 6bolt

-yard wants 400each axle, pulled. i know it sounds steep but options around here are starting to run out and fast. i am mainly interested in the front axle, the rear i may be able to source from a fellow member.

any thoughts? flames? suggestions? input.

mainly comments on the price and my plans for my possible build

thankyou
 
I know AlloyUSA makes Waggy44 shafts. Pretty sure Superior does too, and maybe even Yukon.

If you can get the matching rear, I'd probably do it just so you've got a matching set.

You can change the rear to 6x5.5" using some wheel spacer/adapters but the ones I've seen are 2-piece and would make a stock width XJ rear axle wider than that Waggy front. Personally I'd either get the matching Waggy 44 rear, or convert both axles to 5x5.5" (what I did with a set of Waggy/XJ axles I ran years ago). You could change a rear XJ D44 to 6x5.5" with custom shafts, but you'd have to probably change a lot of the brakes to match, and IMHO it simply wouldn't be worth the cost and trouble vs just running the Waggy 44 rear. I believe that the Toyota rear axle in late model Tacomas is the same bolt pattern as the Waggy axles, and should be comparable width. Might be another option to look at.

If you run a Detroit in the front, you'll probably want to add a 2LO kit to your t'case -- I know I did when I had a Detroit front (and that's what I did too, after about 2 or 3 trips with the Detroit in the front). Both our Jeeps are now equipped with selectable lockers up front. ;) One OX, one ARB.
 
Alright, I'm running 37" MTR's on a D30 up front (all stock & open except gears) and a 8.8 LSD (stock) out back with 4.10, I know the gearing is not right, everything was set to run 33's, but got a good deal on the 37's and wanted to run 37's being I was moving from MI to AL. So now that I've got to deal with more rocks and mud and big hill climbs I need to do some upgrading. Already been out a few times wheeling the 37's and man I love it. Been through some gnarly stuff and climbed some wicked rocks and have not broken yet. Except just replaced both my hubs, but that was replaceing the origanal hubs from 1993 so it was time. I have a light foot and run in 4low, but I know I need to upgrade but to what is my question. I will be running my 37's but want to leave room to run up to 39's, Just in case. So what is my best option, been told 60's and been looking into it, but would I have to ditch my RK 3 link set up and run all new setup or what? a custom 4 link or run a leaf set up? I run the 3 link with 8.5" of lift now. So any help on the direction I should go whould be great. Or should I ditch the uni and go for a TJ set up with the 60's? Also I want to run Full size axles no cutting it down to stock size.
 
http://tntcustoms.com/page.asp?pageid=195
If you do this, you can keep the 3 link, as it will give you stock mounting locations. I would also think about getting a set of unibody stiffeners perhaps to help stiffen things up a bit.
As for the rear, you can just get some spring perches or u-bolt eliminators and go from there.

I would go D60's, especially if you are thinking of 39's.
 
Begster said:
http://tntcustoms.com/page.asp?pageid=195
If you do this, you can keep the 3 link, as it will give you stock mounting locations. I would also think about getting a set of unibody stiffeners perhaps to help stiffen things up a bit.
As for the rear, you can just get some spring perches or u-bolt eliminators and go from there.

I would go D60's, especially if you are thinking of 39's.
Click to expand...


Uni body stiffeners I will be getting no matter what was next up grade with the cage. I only really want to run 37's but If i'm going to do it then thinking might as well do it where I can run bigger tires later on if want to. I run the 1.5" UBE on my 8.8 and love them so was going to run them on the rear if I did any type of axle swap, just not to sure on the whole front axle swap just wanting to be able to keep my 3 link setup being it has work great for me thus far. But thanks for the link to Treks never thought of checking back with them to see if they had something like that, I think that will work great.

well that will work then, but will I need to cut down the axle or can I keep it the full length?
 
emr1101 said:
is there no info on the JK 44 on this thread?
Click to expand...

Most of this thread predates the existance of the JK, and the JK doesn't really have a dana 44, per say.

The axle was originally tagged the "Dana 47", but Chrysler wanted to stick with the "Rubicons have Dana 44s" line.

Larger ring and pinion, 32 spline shafts in the rear. 64" WMS IIRC, but I could be wrong.

The front is 30 spline inners with 32 spline outers, bigger u-joints, bigger balljoints, full crossover steering like the WJ setup, and high pinion. There are 32 spline Chromo inner axles available if you wanted to pick up a second rear locker to go in the front. Early 2007 JK front 44's had a housing flaw, where the housing would split near the passenger UCA mount; but that appears to have been fixed.

A good swap for an XJ, if you want to run 5x5 wheels.
 
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