- Location
- Maurertown,Va.
There is a tool that uses a turn- buckle to push the seals in from the inside.If a person has two seal pushers of the correct size and some all-thread and some ingenuity they could make their own.falcon556 said:
Wayne
-
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Dana 30 Tech
- Thread starter CRASH
- Start date
Wayne
Wayne Sihler said:
That's exactly what the FSM calls for. Unfortunately, I don't know of a sourse for factory tools (the dealer will not sell them) and if I did the price might be way too high.
If I knew the exact diameter of the D30 tube in the seal area, I might be able to make a disk that will push the seal, most likely an aluminum disk to avoid scratching up the tube.
ChuckD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kerman, CA
btraysxj said:
Crash, you're my HERO!
:worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship:
ChuckD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kerman, CA
falcon556 said:
I recall using a light hammer and punch.
tapity tap tap, tapity tap tap, tapity tap tap, tapity tap tap
- Location
- Maurertown,Va.
falcon556 said:
Buy the seals,and measure.This was IIRC an OTC brand tool.
Will have to check to be sure.
Wayne
explorer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- rosemount,mn
CRASH said:
Two things.
1. Technically, the shaft does not directly support weight. The outer stub does hold the brg. together. But you can remove the axle/brg. assy, seperate the inner shaft from the u-joint if it hasn't already removed itself and drive on the unit brg. w/ the outer stub still holding it together. I've done it and made a trail fix for others the same way.
2. Anyone have any data to support the opinion that the cv's are not as strong as 297 joints? Destructive testing maybe under controlled conditions?
- Location
- Foresthill, CA
explorer said:
You've just described a semi-floating axle. The outer stub shaft experiences the force of vehicle weight. Without the outer shaft, the vehicles weight is transfered to a very precarious press fit of the berings on a spindle shell. So, technically, the weight of the vehicle is supported by the spindle shell, and then the stub axle, but you must have both.
I've seen two of the CV style shafts fail on late model Grands. One failed the FIRST time the guy engaged the ARB on Gatekeeper, the first obstacle on the Rubicon. The other failed with an open diff, under power, in the mud.
That's my only experience with them, no machine testing, and I've never run them. If someone has torque yield numbers, I'd love to see them. I agree with your assessment in an earlier thread regarding the smoothness of CV's in turning situations. Lots of comp rigs are now running monster CV's as well.
CRASH
Lucas
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ZOO YORK CITY
Rick XTRM XJ said:
Rck
Can you run just one upper arm using the factory susp. setup (assuming the use of DOM arms)? I like the box brace idea, but I would want to run it all the way to the pumpkin, and retain the cast UCA bushing mount on the top of the diff.
I could convert to radius style LAs in the future.
cyrus
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Zeeland, MI
The Tech in this thread is great, but I have a related question not covered here. I worked on a 30 in a YJ this weekend, kid said his 4x didnt work and the light wouldnt go off. Ok, bad actuator or vac lines. Not a huge deal. So I replaced his actuator with the one off my old 30, reinstalled, work on jack stands, went into 4x and coam out of 4x, but wouldnt go back into. Removed the actuator from axle and with out load it works fine, so the vaccum lines and the valve in the T-case are OK. Reinstall no worky. Shifted into both 4 and 2, removing act. at each end of stroke, thus proving the function of the actuator while in the axle, I think. The actuator does not seem to be strokeing out over the intermediate shaft. Both of the actuators have the same throw and are dimensionally VERY close. The shift fork is a little loose on the actuator shaft but not real bad, Could this be the poblem? The intermediate shaft also is a bit shifty in the axial direction, 1/8th inch or less. Is it the actuators issue, the intermediate shafts issue or a combo of the two?
any insite would be great.
:wierd:
any insite would be great.
:wierd:
- Location
- Billings MT/Rapid City SD
CRASH said:
A local guy here says the Grands CV are stornger then the 260 joints and He's never broke one with 34's on his XJ but I would think that they are roughly the same as a 260 joint. Not much stronger. I think it would be cool to see a high beef CV setup for the 30/44, ect. I would run them.
jeepkid2000
NAXJA Member # 1494
- Location
- SW Washington
i have a 2000 xj and am going to be putting on a 6" lift and 4.56 gears. the front axel is a low pinion dana 30. would it be a good idea to get a HP 30 off a '89 XJ. what is involved in a swap like that? i haven't found out if the 89 has ABS or if it is the disco or non-disconnect type. the joints in the 89 i believe are weaker than the one currently on my XJ.
i don't want to drop any money into a dana 30 except for gears. what mods will i need to make if i dont go with a HP front axel with that kind of lift?
how much would you spend on a '89 dana 30?
thanks for the help
i don't want to drop any money into a dana 30 except for gears. what mods will i need to make if i dont go with a HP front axel with that kind of lift?
how much would you spend on a '89 dana 30?
thanks for the help
- Location
- Denver, CO
jeepkid2000 said:
Everything is interchangable on a D30
Get teh axle, put your Outer knuckles on it (so you can run your calipers) then put your shafts, hubs, and brakes on the 89 axle.
- Location
- Maurertown,Va.
Wayne Sihler said:
Checked at the shop today.It is a SPX Miller Tool .#6764 this set is for a 94-96 Non-disco axle.
Indivedual part #s 6797-center expanding tool(my name)
#6798 seal driver(97>)
#8110 seal driver part of set(6764)
Phone # 1-800-801-5420
I have not called to see if they sell to the general public or only to dealers.
Wayne
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
did somebody say CVs?
:shocked: :shocked:
link: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215534
:shocked: :shocked:
link: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215534
explorer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- rosemount,mn
CRASH said:
OK, looking at a factory manual, I'll give you the semi-float theory, as thats what its called. I'll also tell you that the paragraph prior to that says that the hypoid gear set has the pinion mounted above the axle centerline(on a TJ). Take that for what its worth.
I look at the fact that the shaft is loaded purely in tension in order to hold the brg. together. There is no bending load applied to the stub.
As far as the cv's, I'll give a little synopsis of my experience. I've worn out at least a half dozen 297 joints. Some of those also spit the caps out of the yoke. I never used a shaft after caps were lost, so these were truely multiple failures of the joint and shaft. I never broke a cross however. In the terrain I wheel(woods; so logs, rocks, etc. but generally less traction than "rockcrawling"), I was consantly watching the amount of wheelspin anytime I had the wheels turned and was very careful to not get the frt. end shaking to bad. Since switching to the cv's, I have broken one in the time I would have normally changed a couple of u-joints. Because of the inherent smoothness of the power transfer I can now spin the wheels pretty much as fast as I want under any combination of load and strg. lock. Light mud or snow, I have done donuts with the wheels turned full lock, 2nd gear high range with the engine hitting the rev limiter. You get dizzy after about four or five rotations. Basically, I have used them harder than I ever did the u-joints.
I have been running 32 Swampers with 4.10's locked frt. and rr.
So, CRASH, did you happen to see how those cv's failed? Did the shaft break, or did the joint itself break? I have repaired 2 ZJ shafts that broke inside the boot, and mine which broke the inner race of the joint, and than slipped on the splines of the shaft. One of the advantages is that there is little likelyhood of the broken joint seperating the knuckle which I have seen. I have put cv's in two other Jeeps with 36" tires, and neither have broken YET.
explorer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- rosemount,mn
Wow Brett, thats what I'm looking for for the frt. 44 I am building. Where did you find that?
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
i posted the link. that's a 60, and good luck getting someexplorer said:
Lucas said:
Thats how I ran my previous axle. 1 upper (an RE adjustable) from the factory mount on top of the pumpkin to my long lower.
Did that for a good two years, with no issues. I'm talking like A LOT of trails...every weekend, 4.0-5.0 trails, Moab, JV, AZ. Sometimes I kinda worried that the factory mount wouldn't be strong enough, but it worked. The housings bent first, due to pretty severe abuse.
Rick
Edit: I just noticed you don't have long arms. The mount is strong enough, but I don't know how the setup would work with just 3 short arms. I know of more than once that it's gotten someone off the trail due to breakage, but not sure how the street ride would be.
85xjwoody
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Little Suamico Wi.
My experience with the CV axleshafts on my 85 wagoneer is in favor of the CV shafts. I have not broken one yet and I wheel my truck very hard in the mud. I like the fact of being able to look out my window and look at my tire at full left turn and see it constantly spinning and not jerking and me cringing because I am praying that the u-joint doesn't break. Nice tight turns on the trail without any hop. Also nice that I don't have to back up and make a Y-turn as much as other people. For my application I will always use the CV axleshafts.
