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Dana 30 Build: Sleeve, Truss etc.... for 35's

well, is it 4k or 6200? i'm confused.

I will type this slowly so you can understand.

if you wanted to build the same(or similar 30 that I have, it will cost you around 6k$

I was able to buy some parts used and therefore I saved about 2k$
 
I built more of a 30 for less.

To start with, I didnt' go to the internet and look for the highest possible price for each componant.
 
I built more of a 30 for less.

define "more of a 30"

To start with, I didnt' go to the internet and look for the highest possible price for each componant.

I looked at average retail prices. that is what I came up with.

can you price one out cheaper right now? you can't count friend hookups/discounts or doing your own labor.
 
$600 to install gears, and $200 more to install the locker, which is part of installing the gears?


Thats not a lack of friend hookup, thats farming the job out to the department of agriculture.

But we covered that about 30 posts ago..
 
$600 to install gears, and $200 more to install the locker, which is part of installing the gears?

when I first regeared, I couldn't afford a locker, so the 600$ was to have the 4.56 gears installed (you could probably save some money here, but prices vary... that's what I paid, if I had known better 4 years ago I might have gone elsewhere).

then when I bought the ARB a year later, I paid $200 to have it installed, which I have yet to find anyone that knows what they are doing who will do that for much less.

Thats not a lack of friend hookup, thats farming the job out to the department of agriculture.

But we covered that about 30 posts ago..

what?
 
holy inflated prices batman

robert @ rwkhaus did my gear install for $125 and sold me a master install kit for $75....


i really hope people dont actually pay those prices you listed....

I'm glad Robert Hooks people up. he is a good dude.

and I know I paid high on the labor side of things, and gear prices have fluctuated a bit since I had mine done.

you could probably shave a few hundred off in that area, but
you aren't really going to save on the shafts, brakes, Ujoints and locker though.

AFAIK warn is not making shafts anymore, and since superior shutdown you could get some Jewkons for 500, so thats 1000 with spares. the vanco brakes are not going to be had cheaper, the ARB is going to be somewhere around 1k no matter what.

you Can buy cheaper components and save money.

my point wasn't really to tell people how to build a 30, just to talk about how much I have spent. everyone builds a little bit differently, but considering I have replaced every single part with something aftermarket, it is what it is..

I guess I could go spend another 200$ on synergy balljoints, but that isn't going to make the thing any stronger.
 
holy inflated prices batman

robert @ rwkhaus did my gear install for $125 and sold me a master install kit for $75....


i really hope people dont actually pay those prices you listed....

We don't all live next door to a wholesaler/gear shop.

I paid $3k to get my front and rears done on my last jeep. That was gears + install. And believe me when I say I shopped around. Now with the market dropping a bit here In the last couple of years, I think the last quote I got was $2k for front and rear gears plus install.

The going shop rate up here is $125/hr for a low grade shop. If you want a good shop you're looking at $160-180/hr at regular time rate. Double that for OT if you want your gears done in less than a month.
 
Insane money dumped on dana 30 junk. You can buy a prorock 60 with an arb that will bolt in geared however you want for $7k. With their housing design it doesn't hang much lower than a 30. Keep telling everyone how great the 30 is, my money will never go in one again.
 
I've spent $500 on chromo shafts and about $500 on gears n locker. Been wheeling over 10 years on my D30 and only broke a lockright. No complaints from me. No way i could be rocking big bad axles for that price.
 
AFAIK warn is not making shafts anymore, and since superior shutdown you could get some Jewkons for 500,


Warn's axle division was purchased by Yukon. Buy Yukons, you're getting the same parts made by the same people.



At the end of the day, you either are lying about how much you paid in an attempt to make a point, or you are an idiot.
 
Yeah... I'm pretty sure making cracks about religious groups isn't what the cool kids are doing. Using the name of a religious or ethnic group as any kind of a modifier to denigrate (anything) makes you a dickbag. I'm pretty sure on that one, though I've been accused of needing to lighten up.

Also.. 6K on a 30? WTF? I could maybe see if it took years and then only at the end you stood back and realized the horror you had wrought on your personal finance. Lord knows I've done just that with the Jeep.

It really seems like by the time you are sleeving a 30, putting hub conversions on it and / or thinking about RCVs you could be bench building a 44 with plans to sell your 30 to recoup some costs. Admittedly RCVs are a solution for U-joints, which the 44 and 30 have in common, but once you put RCVs in a 30 you are putting your R&P in harm's way. But then, with a 30 you have more clearance than you do with a 44 and the same size tires... so we're back around in a circle.
 
I've spent $500 on chromo shafts and about $500 on gears n locker. Been wheeling over 10 years on my D30 and only broke a lockright. No complaints from me. No way i could be rocking big bad axles for that price.

d60 parts werent much more than d44 or d30 parts in my case. The difference between a d30 locker and d60 locker was literally $20, and that was the same supplier, same brand, and same date of purchase. Most other stuff is within $20 as well, in my experience. The biggest purchase for a d60 front axle is the housing. The rears are generally cheaper and easier to find for a d60 or 14b vs xj d44 in my experience.
With 1 tons, you can get away with lower level parts because of the size. A $240 lockright locker for a dana 60 is pretty massive, you're probably not going to break it with 37's, so no need to spend $500 on a detroit. 14 bolts have a 2 piece carrier, so you can get a detroit for it for WAY cheaper than one for a dana 44. Plus the shafts are huge, so no need for chromolys for most people. I'm still running stock outer shafts on my front d60.
Labor to install gears in a d60 should be the same as any other axle. A 14 bolt is probably one of the easiest axles to gear, so if anything, it should be cheaper (however i doubt any shop will tell you that).


IMO, i'd throw some budget chromo shafts, gears, inner c gussets, semi decent steering, and a cheap locker in a d30 for up to 35" tires and a moderate to light right footed driver and call it a day.
If you need much more than that, then it may be time to consider 1 tons.
 
Warn's axle division was purchased by Yukon. Buy Yukons, you're getting the same parts made by the same people.
:roflmao:

At the end of the day, you either are lying about how much you paid in an attempt to make a point, or you are an idiot.
ask yourself, why would I lie? I have been completely forthright about what parts are in my axle, the retail price of them, what I actually paid for some of them.

you've already pointed out that I am an idiot, so we will just stick with that.


Also.. 6K on a 30? WTF? I could maybe see if it took years and then only at the end you stood back and realized the horror you had wrought on your personal finance. Lord knows I've done just that with the Jeep.

over the course of 5 or so years that I have been building this D30, and the 5 or more years before that, which some of the parts were purchased, in the end, its hardly a "horror" on anyones personal finances. could I and should I have spent less? absolutely. hindsight is always 20/20.

It really seems like by the time you are sleeving a 30, putting hub conversions on it and / or thinking about RCVs you could be bench building a 44 with plans to sell your 30 to recoup some costs. Admittedly RCVs are a solution for U-joints, which the 44 and 30 have in common, but once you put RCVs in a 30 you are putting your R&P in harm's way. But then, with a 30 you have more clearance than you do with a 44 and the same size tires... so we're back around in a circle.

I would never put RCVs in a 30... and yes, I could have bench built a 44 and not spent any money on the 30, but I wouldn't have been able to wheel or have the kind of fun that I did.
 
As someone who has a $3k HP30, I can tell you I'm on my 3rd R&P..

$3k Is no Labor.. I could of Built a 44 for the same.. Or a set of 60s for about $2k more..

But.. I'll continue to replace R&P's Annually Until I find the coin to start over.. as a Built 30 is Scrap metal in the Re-sale department
 
i cant believe i read this whole thread.....
a built 30 is the right axle for some people, i'd even venture to say "most".. however "built" is gears, locker, brakes, shafts, and some strengthening.
as well as a 60 of any flavor is NOT the right axle for most people, because most people will likely never venture beyond 35s.
there are high-dollar axles for people with the wallet to do it, and low-buck axles for the guys who DIY and research things like parts interchangeability.
your own driving style is what dictates your needs, not the wallet.
build what you want, dont whine if you've spent too much, and don't dislocate your shoulder patting yourself on the back for your low-buck investment in the best D60 ever...
your jeep doesnt wheel where his does, and you both have different needs. build accordingly.
personally i'm a fan of a well-built Turdy, and that fits within my needs.
 
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