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Dana 30 3 link

Anybody else?

1.) I think the Currie joint for the UCA still uses a 10mm bolt, I would not trust a 10mm bolt in a three link.

2.) The passenger side UCA will need a lot of bracing if you plan on using it, at that point I would just cut it off and go with a more traditional mount and use a heim. After all, you are building a custom suspension, if you can't build your own mount you probably shouldn't be tackling this kind of project.

3.) Mount the heims however you can fit them.

4.) On a Cherokee frame end separation will be pretty limited unless you wanna start cutting up the floor.

And lastly, 3/4" heims will be fine for the uppers. 7/8" heims for the lowers will be strong enough but will wear much quicker then a 1.25" heim.

Edit: Just clicked on the Currie link, looks like it uses a 1/2" bolt which is still marginal. I would still just remake the mount.
 
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Anybody else?

Im running 7/8 hiems for my upper and lower. 3/4 would probably be ok but for the cost you might as well just get a 7/8 for the upper and not worry about it. You might spend 10 bucks more and it will last longer and you won't have to worry about it.

No the passangerside bracket is a no no. Its no where close enough for a single upper.

It doesn't matter what direction it is. The main thing it to keep the upper at a right angle to the axle and as flat as you can. Seperation on the frame side will end up around 5 inches or at least thats what most get.
 
I would be willing to draw some stuff up on cad if anyone has some sketches of their kits they have made.

If anyone knows greatwhitexj on pirate ask him to send some sketches and will cad them.

This way someone like ruffstuff can cut out what we need and make it available as a package or something.
 
Hmm thats not a bad Idea. Anybody have any input on that? Would it hold?
 
I would have no hesitation to run a properly designed 3 link with that gusset. consider the fact that with the 3 link you do not have all the binding you do with a 4 link..my .02
 
http://zoneoffroad.com/Instructions/J5013.pdf This is a nice piece for those wanting the single upper on passenger side.
Decent idea, seen some people do it themselves, never knew someone was selling a precut plate for it. 20 bucks isn't that bad a price either.

I really wish I could find the one I saw a while ago... it was either a solid bar or quarter inch wall tubing with a bushing sleeve installed. Looked damn near bulletproof. Searched more and still couldn't find it.
 
I use 1/4 inch plate press broke into a U shape and lasered out on the bottom for the axle tube on my kits. Cut off the old mount and weld on the new. I even offer them cut out to fit around the casting for a Disco front 30.
 
Decent idea, seen some people do it themselves, never knew someone was selling a precut plate for it. 20 bucks isn't that bad a price either.

I really wish I could find the one I saw a while ago... it was either a solid bar or quarter inch wall tubing with a bushing sleeve installed. Looked damn near bulletproof. Searched more and still couldn't find it.



Both Currie & RK offer a solid pass side mount ... Wasn't one of those ?



Joe
 
So as of now my plans are as follows:
7/8 Hiems upper and lower
Zone Offroad LCA gusset
Ballistics fab link tabs 3.5" long (for tube crossmember)

I believe I will end up with about 9" of vertical separation at the axle end, and will shoot for 3.5-5 inches of vertical separation at the crossmember. The upper link will be approx 6-7 inches longer than the lowers.


How does that look? Should I need more vertical separation at the crossmember? Is the top link too long?
 
So as of now my plans are as follows:
7/8 Hiems upper and lower
Zone Offroad LCA gusset
Ballistics fab link tabs 3.5" long (for tube crossmember)

I believe I will end up with about 9" of vertical separation at the axle end, and will shoot for 3.5-5 inches of vertical separation at the crossmember. The upper link will be approx 6-7 inches longer than the lowers.


How does that look? Should I need more vertical separation at the crossmember? Is the top link too long?
 
So as of now my plans are as follows:
7/8 Hiems upper and lower
Zone Offroad LCA gusset
Ballistics fab link tabs 3.5" long (for tube crossmember)

I believe I will end up with about 9" of vertical separation at the axle end, and will shoot for 3.5-5 inches of vertical separation at the crossmember. The upper link will be approx 6-7 inches longer than the lowers.


How does that look? Should I need more vertical separation at the crossmember? Is the top link too long?
 
I 3-linked my XJ at the beginning of the year. I my last saved 3-link data from the 3-link calculator, shows that I should have 8.75" vertical sep. at the axle and 4.75" at the frame, but I don't know where my measurments went from the final product. Also, my upper link is longer to help keep the pinion pointing up at the t-case through the entire travel.

I used RuffStuff Specialties 7/8" Heims, and Ballistic Fab link mounts. I am running my upper link on the passenger side. Here are a few pics of mine, I also converted over to coilovers when doing mine, and built one beefy dana 30.

My parts used
DSC07913.jpg


The beefy D30, the tubes are sleeved with .250 DOM.
0204002102.jpg

DSC07924.jpg

DSC07923.jpg


All done
DSC07948.jpg

flexedout.jpg
 
I 3-linked my XJ at the beginning of the year. I my last saved 3-link data from the 3-link calculator, shows that I should have 8.75" vertical sep. at the axle and 4.75" at the frame, but I don't know where my measurments went from the final product. Also, my upper link is longer to help keep the pinion pointing up at the t-case through the entire travel.

I used RuffStuff Specialties 7/8" Heims, and Ballistic Fab link mounts. I am running my upper link on the passenger side. Here are a few pics of mine, I also converted over to coilovers when doing mine, and built one beefy dana 30.

My parts used
DSC07913.jpg


The beefy D30, the tubes are sleeved with .250 DOM.




All done

Me likey. Why not use ruff stuff for your brackets as well....that's kind of what I'm looking at. Do you drive on the road as well or is it a trail only rig? How do the heims do on the road?
 
I use the RuffStuff 7/8s heims on all my products. Its a great joint for a good price. The road manners are great, you feel every crack in the road but the vehicle feels much more stable. When you turn the wheel, the jeep actually responds unlike the squichy feeling of poly bushings. Like any joint they do eventually wear out depending on your driving and wheeling style and they will clack a little but they are still tight and reliable and dont squeek like poly bushings.
 
Me likey. Why not use ruff stuff for your brackets as well....that's kind of what I'm looking at. Do you drive on the road as well or is it a trail only rig? How do the heims do on the road?


I just liked the look of the Ballistic brackets, they also looked to have a larger "skid plate area" on the link mounts.

I do drive on the road, I drive this to the trails. Like mentioned above, you do feel every little crack and bump in the road with all heims. With the 3-link, the Jeep seems to sway a little more on bumps, but I think the problem is with my track bar. I need to lower the frame mount because the track bar isn't parallel with the rest of the linkage.
 
So as of now my plans are as follows:
7/8 Hiems upper and lower
Zone Offroad LCA gusset (or whole new upper link tower)
Ballistics fab link tabs 3.5" long (for tube crossmember)

I believe I will end up with about 9" of vertical separation at the axle end (stock), and will shoot for 3.5-5 inches of vertical separation at the crossmember. The upper link will be approx 6-7 inches longer than the lowers.


How does that look? Should I need more vertical separation at the crossmember? Is the top link too long?

Anybody? Trying to get this all ready for xmas break.
 
I wouldn't get wrapped around the axle on vertical separation at the crossmember. The important thing is that the setup be built strong enough to hold up. The difference in caster with suspension compression doesn't vary much with a change in link separation at the crossmember. You may be over thinking it. I have only 3" of separation at the crossmember on mine and it performs extremely well.
 
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