D60 Install

[Ghost]

I run a '98 Dodge 2500 master cylinder on a '95 ZJ dual-diaphragm booster, with the proportioning valve from the same ZJ (4 wheel disc). Calipers are the large single-pistons on the front 60 and the normal GM 1/2-ton ones on the rear.

Bias is perfect and stopping power & pedal feel are excellent.

I have the dual piston fronts and the stock xj proportioning valve. Why is the rear locking up but the front not? I thought with the factory set up there would be more pressure to the front bc it was already disk. Is my solution an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear or a zj prop valve?

 

[Lowrange2]

.....A couple runs later I broke the 9" by spitting the pinion gear out the side of the housing.....

I was there when that happened! it made a rather loud boom. lol

 

[Lowrange2]

Ok, would a GC that had disk brakes fix it or is an adjustable one mandatory? Anyone have any input?

I have a 2001 GC master on mine, no modification. I'm using the dual piston calipers of the front of the same GC. Using the same prop valve with the o-rings removed. The disc brakes off the back came on the for 8.8 that I put in it.

 

[Ghost]

Ok so it ran well at Harlan. Had a few hickups at first but after that she did well. 2psi is the tire pressure I need to run. Anything higher and they don't flex well. I need to think about what I want to do at this stage. The front is too loose and the rear is too low. I am considering inboarding the leafs on the frame rail. Or getting a mj lift pack. I like the wheel where it is now in the well but it rubs just ridding in the easy stuff when i hit a bump with some speed. My springs are soft even though there are 6 of them in my bastard pack. Any thoughts? I would like to run the h1's without recentering them but I think the front would have issues too. I know to get them on the back I would need to inboard the leaf pack. I'm not ready to hack it up yet but do see a need of either lower the front or raise the rear. front is around 9 or 10" and the rear is about 8" or 9" with all the tools and spare parts.

 

[sunburned]

I was at Harlan this past weekend also, great trails out there.

 

[Ghost]

Ok I have not really messed with the jeep much.... wheeled it like it was some but funds are tight. I went yesterday to a pull a part and grabbed a 96 booster and a 97 GC proportioning valve. Installed the booster and fixed the brake booster problem. I would definitely use the 95 or 96 booster on the pre 97 xj's its just easier. I have not fixed the brake problem as of yet. The rear still locks up and the front does not. I put a line lock on the rear and the fronts still did not lock up. Does this mean I have a bleed issue or is it most likely the stock xj proportioning valve?

 

[Ghost]

Put a wilwood prop valve in and cannot get the fronts to lock up at all. The nose dives so I know its grabbing. Any suggestions on what to check after I fix the ripped off TB mount?

 

[Ghost]

I'm still having brake issues. To recap: Dodge 2500 MC dual diaphragm booster, summit adjustable prop valve, twin piston factory front ford calipers, rear has Chevy front single piston calipers. While wheeling this past weekend I noticed that the jeep would roll backwards a little before the brakes grabbed fully. Any thoughts on what to do or check? When I unloaded I thought I would test things and mashed the brakes and the gas. The fronts held in place but the rears would spin. Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

[cracker]

#1, swap the rear calipers...they are cheap at the autoparts stores and with the cores, you will spend only like $24 for both.

Is the adj prop valve on the rear brake line or the front? What happens if you remove it all together?

 

[Ghost]

#1, swap the rear calipers...they are cheap at the autoparts stores and with the cores, you will spend only like $24 for both.

Is the adj prop valve on the rear brake line or the front? What happens if you remove it all together?

Ok I'll look at replacing the calipers. in the rear. I'd have to check which it's on to be honest I don't remember. Remove the prop valve? Hmm never thought of that. Why and how? Don't laugh I thought you needed it.

 

[cracker]

Ok I'll look at replacing the calipers. in the rear. I'd have to check which it's on to be honest I don't remember. Remove the prop valve? Hmm never thought of that. Why and how? Don't laugh I thought you needed it.

At this point, trial and error may be your best bet. Even the MC could be an issue....you sure you don't have the front and the back of ports of the MC connected right? You can reverse them easily and try it too.

 

[Ghost]

At this point, trial and error may be your best bet. Even the MC could be an issue....you sure you don't have the front and the back of ports of the MC connected right? You can reverse them easily and try it too.

Yea that was suggested over the weekend and I may just try that first.