xjrev10
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Eveleth, MN
just read through your whole thread. looks very nice:cheers:
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D60 Install
- Thread starter Ghost
- Start date
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
TY rev she aint that perty but she is wheelable.
Chased down a leak in the hydro assist to the return line and the input on the box. Redid the ram ot mount on the diff. I did not have the cash for a ruffstuff cover so I took some scrap steal and built this:
Also got the rear springs all together over the last couple weeks. I think this is a much better shackle angle.
Chased down a leak in the hydro assist to the return line and the input on the box. Redid the ram ot mount on the diff. I did not have the cash for a ruffstuff cover so I took some scrap steal and built this:
Also got the rear springs all together over the last couple weeks. I think this is a much better shackle angle.
scooter89
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- dirty desert
x2 here.
man that's so sexy bro im in love keep up the good work bad ass man i would love to see your rig hit jv here in cali but one more time nice job bro have a good one.
andrewmacc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Surrey, BC, Canada
Trying to get the parts together for an axle swap of my own, so I've got a big question that I can't seem to find many people addressing:
how centered is the axle? Have you done any measurements there? A few swaps I've seen, the axle is a good 3 inches left/right offcenter.
how centered is the axle? Have you done any measurements there? A few swaps I've seen, the axle is a good 3 inches left/right offcenter.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
Yea and if you don't use the 78-79 from what I have read it will be that way. Mine is really close to center if not dead on. I can check measurements if you would like.
Israel
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spanish Fahrk, Utah
Here's a picture of my '90 housing that's been shortened 5" on the long side.
If it were full width, the coil bucket on the driver's side would need to be pushed into the differential another 2.5" to keep the perches at stock width.
If it were full width, the coil bucket on the driver's side would need to be pushed into the differential another 2.5" to keep the perches at stock width.
andrewmacc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Surrey, BC, Canada
That would be awesome. Because as it is, I may have to ditch the front 60 I got. I don't feel like being off-center, it'll just be one big OCD tick to me that I'll never get over, haha. :banghead:
Thanks!
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
I added a 97 MC and booster. The 95 one was mediocre at best after the addition of the rear disks. This one cost me a case of soda so I figured I'd try it out before buying a new MC from the parts house.
As you can see the the prop. valve is below the MC on the 94's so I ended up having to stop what I was doing last night and get some brake lines during lunch today. I'll try to get some measurements on the front today if I can.
As you can see the the prop. valve is below the MC on the 94's so I ended up having to stop what I was doing last night and get some brake lines during lunch today. I'll try to get some measurements on the front today if I can.
1SOLOW X
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Redwood city, CA
great buildup! ! i just bought some full width axles to put under my heep. do you have a parts list and $$$ tally?? just curious on what it's gonna run me.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
It has been done a little here and a little there. I can gestimate.
axles: $1200
Ballistic Brackets: $120
Tires: $1400
Rims: $50
Centers: $200
Gears: $500
Lock Right: $360
Spool: $150
35 spline rear shafts: $200
Bore the spindles: $50
Rear disk: $315
That adds up to be $4545... wow.
Have to pull the MC back off I forgot the rod was longer then the 94 one. I have considered pulling the booster's appart and swaping them but info is not out there on it.
440swepty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Savannah, GA
I have a good dual diaphram booster from a '95 that should bolt up to your setup. Let me know if you're interested. I had to go with a durango booster to get my brakes working properly. A larger piston is needed at the master to get the proper volume of fluid for the 1 ton brake calipers. Kevin
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
I have tried this and it can be done. It is a major PITA but it can be done. If you want more info, shoot me a PM.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
You mean MC? I saw the info RCman put up and was thinking of going that route if this does not work out.
Take a decent number and triple it. Then you'll get the number you'll go past twice. :tear:
Since the info in my thread could/can be confusing, simply put I used a '99 Dodge 2500 Ram Truck w/ 360 gasser MC with my stock '97 booster. I'm not sure if the engine makes a difference or not, but I know it has to be the truck version, the van is different. Direct bolt up to the dual diaphragm other than lengthening the push rod a little bit (just a hair more than 5/8" in my case). I think the whole swap including messing with the push rod, bench bleeding, running new lines from the prop valve to the MC, and re-bleeding the calipers took me ~2.5-3 hours.
I ran the stock MC with Ford twin pistons (front) and Chevy singles (rear) for a few quick <0.5mile trips and thought I could get by. It was complete chance that I ran into a buddy at the parts store and got hooked up with the Ram MC. After the swap I don't know what I was thinking with the stock MC. The difference is HUGE!
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- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
Two things:
This is going to be one of those things like the D44/9"; If I dot get it now while its appart I'll be redoing it again really soon?
The lengenthening of the rod: Was that the rod coming out of the back of the 97 Booster and into the MC?
I already have to either space the booster off the body or swap rods. I am considering swaping rods and taking lots of pictures. However, there are lots of metal clips that could get broken and then I'd be buying a new booster only to space it off.
I don't see why you couldn't swap the MC at a later date but if you are already running into push rod issues then I don't see why you'd put it off.
Lengthening the pushrod can be done in two ways. I simply bought a 2.5" long 1/4"-28 grade 8 bolt and cut it down to the right length. I know Chris (Vetteboy) and Andy in PA both made spacers to go into the MC bore and left the pushrod alone. Either method seems to work just fine.
I can't help you with the spacing of the booster or swapping rods. I literally just unscrewed the end of mine and threaded in the new portion. Sorry.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
Second Question: Was talking to my local jeep mechanic, he said use the wj master. Looked up the two and they share the same part number on line. Do you know if they are the same master?
Shares the part number as what? I don't believe they are the same MC. The part number I used for my Ram MC was NM3060.
From my research on what people have used in XJs (if my notes are correct):
'97 XJ: 1" bore, M10x1.0 and M12x1.0 fittings
'00 WJ: 1" bore, M10x1.0 and M12x1.0 fittings
'99 2500 Ram Truck: 1.25" bore, M10x1.0 and M12x1.0 fittings
'85 E350: 1.125" bore, 3/8"-24 and 7/16"-24 fittings
'75 Corvette: 1.125" bore, 9/16"-18 and 1/2"-20 fittings
'99 Escalade: 1.125" bore, 9/16"-18 and 1/2"-20 fittings
Check out THE XJ/MJ/ZJ/WJ master cylinder upgrade thread.It has a TON of information.
Edit: I looked in my parts catalog, the WJ and XJ do not share the same part number. Not sure why you'd want to do that anyway as they both have 1" bores.
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440swepty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Savannah, GA
Yes, I did mean Durango master. I think it has a larger 1 1/8" bore. If you use a booster like my '95. The booster and Durango master should be a bolt on with no mods to rod length. The '97 up master has a longer rod that attaches the pedal assly. I think this is what you discovered already. Would you have a long enough stud to run a spacer between the booster and firewall? That would probably be the easy fix if you wanted to stay with the '97 booster.
Pirate THREAD on Master/ booster combos.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Worth noting... .25" may not seem like much, but that results in a 56% increase in fluid flow for the same pedal movement.
Interesting that the WJ and 97 XJ MCs have the same diameter and fittings but aren't the same part number - do they bolt up the same way? I know my 94-down booster/MC had four mounting bolts while the WJ and apparently 97-up (95-up? I don't remember what they look like) XJ booster/MC have 2 mounting bolts for the MC.
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