BIGWOODY
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Greensboro, NC
why not just build the real BEEF for the same cabbage?cracker said:Its only cabbage! Grow more!
why not just build the real BEEF for the same cabbage?cracker said:Its only cabbage! Grow more!
BIGWOODY said:why not just build the real BEEF for the same cabbage?
Clean-RC said:How tall is your jeep now, cracker???
BIGWOODY said:why not just build the real BEEF for the same cabbage?
Goatman said:You're kidding...right?
When's the last time you priced custom D60 axle stuff? How about $1000 just for a junkyard front HPD60 (if you can even find one), then add the gears, locker and other good parts to it. It's over $1000 just to change it to 5 on 5.5.
Sorry, I'm just not into criticizing people for deciding to spend good money on good parts. I've never meet anyone who later on regretted spending money on a custom axle build, even if they spent a ton.
Goatman said:You're kidding...right?
When's the last time you priced custom D60 axle stuff? How about $1000 just for a junkyard front HPD60 (if you can even find one), then add the gears, locker and other good parts to it. It's over $1000 just to change it to 5 on 5.5.
Sorry, I'm just not into criticizing people for deciding to spend good money on good parts. I've never meet anyone who later on regretted spending money on a custom axle build, even if they spent a ton.
Goatman said:It's over $1000 just to change it to 5 on 5.5.
Goatman said:It's over $1000 just to change it to 5 on 5.5.
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BrettM said:cracker, are you using radius type longarms? if so you don't want to use a johnny joint in the upper as it will contribute to bind in the suspension.
I'm not a big fan of the long-lower/short-upper idea, but you won't experience the same kind of bind as a radius arm. Between the 8 bushings/joints in your front arms I think it would be best to have at least 2 be rubber to provide for the inherrant binding of that suspension.cracker said:I have TeraFlex Long Arms for the LCA and TeraFlex uppers. Will it be a problem?
I agree, but that's the way Clayton is doing it for whatever reason. I doubt it will fail though, there shouldn't be much side forces on it as the panhard will be dealing with those and the twisting forces should be pretty readily dealt with by the johnny joints.Goatman said:Curious.....why not use boxed tubing rather than plate for the upper control arm mounts? Less side bracing is needed, and the joint is welded into the recessed end of the tubing for a much stronger bond......in effect it's welded to two plates, one on each side, rather than just one plate in the middle of the joint. There is quite a bit of twisting force on those joints.
BrettM said:I'm not a big fan of the long-lower/short-upper idea, but you won't experience the same kind of bind as a radius arm. Between the 8 bushings/joints in your front arms I think it would be best to have at least 2 be rubber to provide for the inherrant binding of that suspension.
BrettM said:it looks like you have poly bushings on both ends of the LCAs, that's good. what is the frame side bushing/joint of the uppers?
basically every suspension has bind at some point, the long lower/short upper style binds more readily than some other designs so it's good to have some rubber or poly bushings in there.