• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

cracked exhaust manifold

I just replaced mine about six months ago with a Pacesetter header. It went on easily enough and was fairly cheap -$180- but the jury is still out on how long it lasts...
 
ParkCityXJ said:
I just replaced mine about six months ago with a Pacesetter header. It went on easily enough and was fairly cheap -$180- but the jury is still out on how long it lasts...
Did these replace the down tube that goes from the header to the cat? Where did you find them?
 
Wiley Coyote said:
Yep, the factory manifolds crack frequently. Don’t bother welding them back up it doesn’t work. I was short on cash when mine cracked, so I just welded them back up. The first time it lasted for about a month, the second time it didn’t even make it a day. I’m using a Banks header now. It was a direct bolt in and works well, but it is a bit expensive (~ $500).

My Banks was $396 delivered for my 96
 
Installed the $100 Ebay manifold today and it fit perfect w/no leaks. Pretty nicely made unit, stainless steel tubing with nice welds. We'll see how long it lasts . . .
 
mines a 96 and it too has a big crack in it. But I think mine craked do to breaking the motor mount bolts off in the block three times and the motor torqueing forward. I almost had me a banks from ebay. it went for 340$. too much for me. there is a place www.4x4groupbuy.com they have the banks for about $300. The price is not posted but I have been in contact with the guy. He had them in stock not too long ago. I dont know if he still does. It is the cheapest I have seen yet for the banks.
 
highhilleer said:
Did these replace the down tube that goes from the header to the cat? Where did you find them?

Yes, the Pacesetter comes with pipe all the way to the cat, at least mine did back when I did it in '97 or so.
Pacesetter does seem to be hit and miss when it comes to quality but mine has been on for around 7 years and 150k miles and no problems.
 
Chaps said:
Sorry, I could have posted this link. I figure this thing should last a couple of years . . . maybe?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7930656689&category=33632

Wow, good price. I saw that on ebay too. I need 1 for my 89' xj 4.0L non-ho. I know they run a little more and don't have the expansion joints on them. I see 1 for $140 with gasket and bolts. I'm just looking to sell this xj so I need to get it to pass smog. A few muffler/performance places I asked will not tough a manifold gasket, they refered me to a jeep shop.
Troy
 
Chaps said:
Installed the $100 Ebay manifold today and it fit perfect w/no leaks. Pretty nicely made unit, stainless steel tubing with nice welds. We'll see how long it lasts . . .

How easy/hard was it to install? I never replaced a exhaust manifold before. Do you have to unbolt the fuel injection or intake etc? It looks like it is hard to get to. I have a 89' non-ho.
Troy
 
You have to remove a good deal of the left side of the engine, and I'd recommend you get an FSM to follow step-by-step. http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/exhaust.html We used the 99 FSM when doing my exhaust and you can't skip steps wihtout making it tougher on yourself. The intake and exhaust share several bolts and the gasket so you've got to remove them both to get at it. Since I changed the fuel injectors at the same time I moved the fuel rail out of the way, but I believe it's possible without that. Power steering and the airbox were in the way so they had to come out too...
 
Big Red said:
How easy/hard was it to install? I never replaced a exhaust manifold before. Do you have to unbolt the fuel injection or intake etc? It looks like it is hard to get to. I have a 89' non-ho.
Troy

The Renix years exhaust manifold, seems a lot harder than the post 90 models. There are some definate oh chit´s in there. The manifold studs have a tendancy to snap off, no matter how carefull you are, same with the collector/flange bolts.
I disconnected the injector wires and pulled the fuel rail, just to get the heat shields out, which made getting to the bottom bolts some easier. Replaced the "O" rings.
The injector connectors, are really brittle from the heat and the little "C" clip type wire retainers a pain.
Type of job, you want to take your time with and be real carefull and even then probably break something or snap off a piece of plastic.
I´ve done a bunch of Renix´s, just did my first 96, they made it a lot easier to do.
 
This came up while I was searching for my answer...but never found it.

How can I tell if my manifold is cracked? Noise? Visual inspection? Does it always crack at the lower part of the manifold (collector)?

Thanks!
 
The most common place for cracks will be where the pipes come together, and visual inspection is going to be the best way to locate them.

old_crack.jpg

That was mine when pulled off - my replacement already has a similar crack after only a little more than a year.
 
Back
Top