Exhaust manifold recommendations

[gba88]

Honestly I was surprised at how well it was built. The flange end that goes to the head is nice and thick and the collector side is just as good or better than the factory one. I compared them side by side and the stainless piece was just as good or better in each way. Pickup some engine mounts also so when you do this you can easily get to the driver motor mount because they are the reason why the header cracks apart. My mounts looked fine until I actually removed them, once the bolts were loose the rubber just fell apart into various pieces so the looked good but were shot.

Yeah, I planned on doing the mounts too after I watched a few videos and read more about the mounts causing the cracks. Mine "look" ok, but I never changed them and it has about 165k on it so they are probably shot. I can't decide on what what mounts to get though. It seems like you either get a set for 200 or a set for 30 or so...no in between. Local stores have them for around 30-55 each, but I"m sure they are the same ones you get on amazon for half price.

 

[Old Man Minimalist]

Yeah, I planned on doing the mounts too after I watched a few videos and read more about the mounts causing the cracks. Mine "look" ok, but I never changed them and it has about 165k on it so they are probably shot. I can't decide on what what mounts to get though. It seems like you either get a set for 200 or a set for 30 or so...no in between. Local stores have them for around 30-55 each, but I"m sure they are the same ones you get on amazon for half price.

I was going to change mine during the process but decided to leave them. I bought a set of Anchor motor mounts and honestly, brand new, they looked worse than the ones that are on the vehicle.

Mine have no cracking in the rubber, no rust and appear to be much better built than the Anchor's.

Brown Dog did not sell me on the rubber versions being as vibration free as factory mounts so no sale there for me.

If I could find a pair of OEM mounts, I would buy them and change them the next time I need to change my exhaust manifold.

I haven't been around long but I had a manifold crack on my '88 years ago and the vehicle didn't have all that many miles on it. I replaced the manifold, drove it another 6+ years and put 60K miles on it and the replacement never cracked.

If the motor mounts are truly trashed, I can see it contributing to a cracked manifold, but I'm willing to bet that is not the only contributor.

 

[gba88]

I was going to change mine during the process but decided to leave them. I bought a set of Anchor motor mounts and honestly, brand new, they looked worse than the ones that are on the vehicle.

Mine have no cracking in the rubber, no rust and appear to be much better built than the Anchor's.

Brown Dog did not sell me on the rubber versions being as vibration free as factory mounts so no sale there for me.

If I could find a pair of OEM mounts, I would buy them and change them the next time I need to change my exhaust manifold.

I haven't been around long but I had a manifold crack on my '88 years ago and the vehicle didn't have all that many miles on it. I replaced the manifold, drove it another 6+ years and put 60K miles on it and the replacement never cracked.

If the motor mounts are truly trashed, I can see it contributing to a cracked manifold, but I'm willing to bet that is not the only contributor.

You make a good point. I'll inspect them more thoroughly and make a decision after that. I do not want poly mounts, either I have enough vibration in the thing as it is.

 

[RCP Phx]

I had a set of Browndog rubber mounts on my stroker for about 6hrs, I couldn't stand them and put my original mounts back in!

 

[techno1154]

I had a set of Browndog rubber mounts on my stroker for about 6hrs, I couldn't stand them and put my original mounts back in!

Don't Stinkyfab make some? I have not heard much from any users here. Some real-world user opinion needed. After 12 years and more than 100,000 miles the MORE offroad engine mounts still annoy me.

 

[maxbraketorque]

Don't Stinkyfab make some? I have not heard much from any users here. Some real-world user opinion needed. After 12 years and more than 100,000 miles the MORE offroad engine mounts still annoy me.

One approach I've seen used for other vehicles is to reinforce a stock mount using urethane filler. For the XJ motor mount, I think this would consist of partially filling in the gap above the rubber portion so that it can't move upward as far. This will likely give a good combination of NVH control while limiting motor movement.

 

[Woodswanderer]

One approach I've seen used for other vehicles is to reinforce a stock mount using urethane filler. For the XJ motor mount, I think this would consist of partially filling in the gap above the rubber portion so that it can't move upward as far. This will likely give a good combination of NVH control while limiting motor movement.

If going that far, makes sense to pick up the energy suspension poly inserts. Cost just as much as the replacement oem mounts and same amount of work. With rubber trans mount, NVH is minimal. ES Part number 2.1104G. Only thing i can say is be careful opening up the tab on the bottom of the mount shell. Its not hard to snap off since its mild steel. I wound up with a Duralast on one side that i cut the new rubber out of


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[maxbraketorque]

Adding some urethane filler to a new OEM rubber mount would be quite different than using an ES polyurethane insert. The engine is supported by the rubber, so putting filler into the gap between the rubber and the limiting strap would act to limit movement of the rubber, and in an ideal situation there would be little or no contact between the urethane filler and the rubber during normal driving. This should help to reduce the rate of degradation of the OEM mount because it will undergo less stretch during high torque conditions, but it won't eliminate eventual cracking.

Just do we are on the same page, by polyurethane filler, I am referring to stuff like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A9ZR8HO

 

[flyin_ryan]

Yeah, I planned on doing the mounts too after I watched a few videos and read more about the mounts causing the cracks. Mine "look" ok, but I never changed them and it has about 165k on it so they are probably shot. I can't decide on what what mounts to get though. It seems like you either get a set for 200 or a set for 30 or so...no in between. Local stores have them for around 30-55 each, but I"m sure they are the same ones you get on amazon for half price.

I wasted a few hours trying to find a good set that wasn't $200 and gave up and just went with the $15 amazon ones and well they didn't look any different than the oem ones they were replacing. It's been three months and no issues with them, yet

 

[gba88]

I wasted a few hours trying to find a good set that wasn't $200 and gave up and just went with the $15 amazon ones and well they didn't look any different than the oem ones they were replacing. It's been three months and no issues with them, yet

Funny you mention that...after reading everything here, I decided that at 7 bucks each.... WHO CARES.... I ordered probably what were the same ones. They came yesterday and look really solid. I'll wait until I get into the the job to decide if I replace them or not depending how the old ones look.

 

[gba88]

Really annoying how you can't edit posts on here... anyway, here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C976EW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


They definitely "look" better in person than a lot of the others I've seen online like the anchor brand.

Here is an "anchor" one from a quick search.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4034316061...1291&msclkid=96dbc2598e661c572aa7a65bb440f78b

 

[flyin_ryan]

Really annoying how you can't edit posts on here... anyway, here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C976EW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


They definitely "look" better in person than a lot of the others I've seen online like the anchor brand.

Ha their the ones i've been using but I paid the $12 for them

 

[Woodswanderer]

Adding some urethane filler to a new OEM rubber mount would be quite different than using an ES polyurethane insert. The engine is supported by the rubber, so putting filler into the gap between the rubber and the limiting strap would act to limit movement of the rubber, and in an ideal situation there would be little or no contact between the urethane filler and the rubber during normal driving. This should help to reduce the rate of degradation of the OEM mount because it will undergo less stretch during high torque conditions, but it won't eliminate eventual cracking.

Just do we are on the same page, by polyurethane filler, I am referring to stuff like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A9ZR8HO

Yup, im familiar with that trick for the price of a tube of urethane that’ll get half wasted, you can buy the Energy Suspension inserts on ebay. Takes just as long or less to install them. Just need a hacksaw and screwdriver along with some way to clean up the old rubber remains once you cut them free from the lower portion of the mount (no issue if they are seperated already). I dont recommend burning them out, since the shells are mild steel.

They work, but if i ever do them again (unlikely) i will spring for the StinkyFab ones to match my trans mount. Buy once, cry once.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rob Mayercik]

If you're still open to aftermarket motor mounts, might I suggest the M.O.R.E. (Mountain Off-Road Enterprises) JM600 "bombproof" mounts with torsion rubber bushings?

https://mountainoffroad.com/products/bomb-proof-motor-mount-kit-yj-tj-lj-xj

I bought a set of these nearly 15 years ago and they're still holding up today (in fact, they may actually outlive the Jeep itself). Quite possibly these will be the last mounts this Jeep will ever need.

Per M.O.R.E.'s Q&A on these, they claim a "slight increase in vibration over stock but much less than polyurethane".

Per my own experience: When first installed, I had a little extra vibration at idle, and nearly as smooth as OEM once I was in motion (depending on your own sensitivity, might be indistinguishable). However, after what I can only call a "break-in period" of maybe 100-200 miles or so, it seemed like they smoothed out to the point where I feel the vibration level is indistinguishable from OEM all the time. I don't know whether heat-cycling the rubber bushings softened them slightly to smooth things out or if there was some sort of tension/stress on them from being installed that it took a little time to relax out (like how when installing u-joints they are stiff in the shaft until you tap the ears a couple times with a hammer, then they suddenly loosen up and move like they are supposed to).

They aren't as cheap as the ones in the Amazon link above, but I think they're well worth the money, especially if you go out on the trails (wheeling will tear up stock mounts very fast).


Rob

P.S. It always surprises me that any time this comes up it's always Brown Dog mentioned and nobody but me remembers M.O.R.E.'s were out for years before Brown Dog came along...

 

[maxbraketorque]

I really like the MORE bombproof mounts. I think I'm going to have to try those rather than caulking a pair of OEM mounts.

 

[maxbraketorque]

I really like the MORE bombproof mounts. I think I'm going to have to try those rather than caulking a pair of OEM mounts.

One thing I wonder though is whether everyone stating that Brown Dog vibrate too much are using the polyurethane or their "ultraflex rubber".

 

[Old Man Minimalist]

If you're still open to aftermarket motor mounts, might I suggest the M.O.R.E. (Mountain Off-Road Enterprises) JM600 "bombproof" mounts with torsion rubber bushings?

https://mountainoffroad.com/products/bomb-proof-motor-mount-kit-yj-tj-lj-xj

I bought a set of these nearly 15 years ago and they're still holding up today (in fact, they may actually outlive the Jeep itself). Quite possibly these will be the last mounts this Jeep will ever need.

Per M.O.R.E.'s Q&A on these, they claim a "slight increase in vibration over stock but much less than polyurethane".

Per my own experience: When first installed, I had a little extra vibration at idle, and nearly as smooth as OEM once I was in motion (depending on your own sensitivity, might be indistinguishable). However, after what I can only call a "break-in period" of maybe 100-200 miles or so, it seemed like they smoothed out to the point where I feel the vibration level is indistinguishable from OEM all the time. I don't know whether heat-cycling the rubber bushings softened them slightly to smooth things out or if there was some sort of tension/stress on them from being installed that it took a little time to relax out (like how when installing u-joints they are stiff in the shaft until you tap the ears a couple times with a hammer, then they suddenly loosen up and move like they are supposed to).

They aren't as cheap as the ones in the Amazon link above, but I think they're well worth the money, especially if you go out on the trails (wheeling will tear up stock mounts very fast).


Rob

P.S. It always surprises me that any time this comes up it's always Brown Dog mentioned and nobody but me remembers M.O.R.E.'s were out for years before Brown Dog came along...

I'll consider those when the time comes to replace them. I don't do any wheeling at this point so we'll see how they hold up. Thanks!

 

[RCP Phx]

I had a set of Browndog rubber mounts on my stroker for about 6hrs, I couldn't stand them and put my original mounts back in!

Rubber here!

 

[techno1154]

Rubber here!

If I remember correctly, my set was the first generation. It seems the formular have changed.
Mine resembles the lower control arm bushings.

 

[Rob Mayercik]

That's what my M.O.R.E. ones look like - lower control arm bushings (though they sort of look like leaf spring bushings too, in a way).

Just did a quick search in my old posts - mine were installed in the spring of 2006 (LINK). Just shy of 17 years later they're still holding up like new.