You'd need to swap out the rotors and possibly calipers as well - and the calipers may imply swapping the knuckles.
Actually, what's to stop you swapping the knuckles, calipers, etc plus putting in Super D30 balljoints? IIRC, that's what the JK uses.
There are 3 measurements that will make or break this idea:
- knuckle mounting surface to wheel/brake rotor mounting surface offset
- knuckle mounting surface to ujoint yoke back offset (machined surface of unit bearing flange to back face)
- depth of unit bearing from back face to the spot where the big washer and axle nut sit
The first needs to be right to avoid having brake rotor issues. Swapping to a different rotor may fix that - also make sure the unit bearing wheel flange will fit inside the hat of the rotor if you are trying to keep original rotors.
The second needs to be right to avoid having ujoint binding issues when you turn the wheel. The common WJ steering/brake swap fixes this using a 1/4" thick weld-on spacer that goes on the mounting surface on the knuckle. Basically, when assembled, the center of the ujoint cross MUST be almost exactly on the axis of the two balljoints.
The third affects your stub axle choices. If the depth there is wrong, you either won't be able to achieve proper unit bearing preload because the nut will bottom out on the axle before it's tight enough, or you won't be able to get the nut on far enough to use a cotter pin on the nut retainer.