Colorado B/S Thread

[DutchVDub]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

That’s why I’ll be going through a property management company if it happens. Let them deal with the majority of the hassle/headache. I figure I can always turn around and sell the house if I decide it’s not worth it.

 

[1-tonxj]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Hmmmmm... cash in hand but can't decide $600 Yukon 4340 for my 14 or ouverson 300m the ouverson are twice the cost but they will probably never break with a 4.0 and anything smaller than 47s .

 

[smokeyyank]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Hmmmmm... cash in hand but can't decide $600 Yukon 4340 for my 14 or ouverson 300m the ouverson are twice the cost but they will probably never break with a 4.0 and anything smaller than 47s .

Geez, $1200! I get what you're saying one and done for more $ or just waiting to break em. Yukons have a lifetime warranty though. I'd go that route and keep a spare set.

 

[1-tonxj]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Geez, $1200! I get what you're saying one and done for more $ or just waiting to break em. Yukons have a lifetime warranty though. I'd go that route and keep a spare set.

If I had a spool or arb I would think like that but a busted shaft often takes out the $800 detroit in collateral damages beyond the warranty on the shaft. But breaking 4340 with 42s and a 4.0 will be tough as well ... lol... I really do like the end caps on the ouverson .

 

[trippled]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

If I had a spool or arb I would think like that but a busted shaft often takes out the $800 detroit in collateral damages beyond the warranty on the shaft. But breaking 4340 with 42s and a 4.0 will be tough as well ... lol... I really do like the end caps on the ouverson .

Weren't you talking about a v8 conversion.......? Thought I'd throw that out there...

 

[1-tonxj]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Weren't you talking about a v8 conversion.......? Thought I'd throw that out there...

A v8 is so far out of sight ...it would be nice , but I need to finish what I got going and get it on the trail for awhile b4 I can justify that project . If I keep it a 6.0 will definitely go in sometime .

 

[Hypoid]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

A v8 is so far out of sight ...it would be nice , but I need to finish what I got going and get it on the trail for awhile b4 I can justify that project . If I keep it a 6.0 will definitely go in sometime .

All I have to say is, THANKS for stimulating the economy! :cheers:

 

[Ecomike]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Sooo, I finally got the old bolts out, now trying to install the new leaf spring (OEM stock, old one broke by the PO).

How the fork do you bend/beast handle the spring so you can get the last rear bolt in??? The old rear shackle is still on it, reusing it.

All I have to say is, THANKS for stimulating the economy! :cheers:

 

[Hypoid]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Sooo, I finally got the old bolts out, now trying to install the new leaf spring (OEM stock, old one broke by the PO).

How the fork do you bend/beast handle the spring so you can get the last rear bolt in??? The old rear shackle is still on it, reusing it.

Loosen the shackle bolt and hit the shackle with a hammer. If it does not move, at least you should feel a little better.

 

[Ecomike]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Loosen the shackle bolt and hit the shackle with a hammer. If it does not move, at least you should feel a little better.

I already hit the upper(?) shackle bolt and nut with about 10 gigga ft-lbs of torque and it just smiled at me. I need a new plan.

I am assuming one installs the front leaf spring bolt first, (if it even matters)?

So I need to torch the upper shackle bolt red hot all day then beat Hastathe living peyotes out of it?

That did not work on the old front or lower rear bolt.

 

[Hypoid]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

OK, I misread the question. Attach the rear spring eye first, and muscle, beat, and drift the front eye bolt into alignment.

 

[freerider15]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Interior Floor sound deadening completed (CLD Tiles, CCF and MLV)...DONE!!!

Heater Control Box torn apart...check.

Headliner ready to drop for additional sound deadening...check.

Cranking like none other to get this Blue XJ back together.

A month and a half until EJS, and I've got prep work to do on the buggy...and this thing needs to drive itself out.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get"
- The CLD tiles on the roof
- The 3M Thinsulate Acoustic attached to the headliner
- The headliner and trim put back in
- Clean, Reassemble, and get new foam cutouts made for the heater box on
- Get heater box back on firewall

Tick tock!

 

[Ecomike]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

OK, I misread the question. Attach the rear spring eye first, and muscle, beat, and drift the front eye bolt into alignment.

Thanks, I did not think that was possible to do in that order. I assume you have done it that way. I have a thread on to it here

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=246560653#post246560653

Where the only input is a guy saying to the front bolt first. I was sure, until your post that the front bolt had to be done first.

How easy is it to get the spring loop end into the front bolt box after attaching the rear bolt first, when the rear shackle does not spin free because it is on a 30 year old rust-stuck bolt/bushing sleeve, that I have no hope of removing or loosening up?

 

[DutchVDub]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Since you have the springs out anyways why not suspend them from the rafters of your garage with the shackle ends in a bucket of WD-40, PB Blaster, or some other magic oil of choice? Just leave them in there soaking for a week or so.

I have always installed the front spring eye first and then slid the rear spring eye up and into the shackle with the shackle just loosely hanging in its mount, but whatever order works best is going to work best given the situation. There is no need to do it in a certain order.

 

[Hypoid]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

The shackles are stuck in the Jeep.

After having to cut out a captured nut doing the fronts, I left the stock shackles until I was ready to fight that battle. When I was ready to replace the stock shackles, I cut them off the bolt.

But, yeah, Ecomike is to the point of doing whatever is clever.

 

[Ecomike]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

LOLOL, there was an old Rice Univ Bumper sticker in the 1960s. It Said:

"THINK! IT MAY BE A NEW EXPERIENCE"

:laugh:

Dutch, I do not "have the springs out" I am replacing one broken OEM leaf spring on a 1987 rusted XJ.

The old shackle is not loose anymore, LOL. Its had 30 years of rust to stake its claim.

And I am not in the mood to remove the entire jeep from it, too much work LOL.

Took me 4 months to get the one front bolt out LOL (Harvey and the flood did not help). And I could reach the front bolt it, LOL.

But now I am wondering, if I put in a lower bolt, and use a pry bar, maybe I can force the shackle to move some??? I did PB Blast the thing, but I am sure you all know how those inner sleeves rust and seize up on bolts?

If the new shackle can not move, rotate on the upper bolt, is that not a problem for the new leaf spring?

I had to beat and air hammer the front sleeve off the front bolt, and cut and grind to get it off the front bolt after 8-12 hours of combined time cutting and grind the spring to pieces, and then the outer bushing stuff off the inner sleeve just reach the POS.

 

[BigMike34]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Whats up guys new to this forum and fairly new to the jeep world, I have some quick noob questions hopefully I can get answers here (didn't feel like I should start a new thread for this) I've been searching like crazy and found good info but noting super certain and to my goals.

So I have a 2000 Jeep XJ all stock, its a 4.0L Auto with a 242 T-case (Full-Time & Part-Time 4x4) and currently have a 8.25 in the rear and a D30 in the front not sure if its Low or High pinion.

Plans I have are as follows - Doing a BDS 4.5 LA lift with Fox 2.0s & SYE (Read really good things about this kit) Im going to be running 35's don't know specific size but lets just say 35 X 12.5 R15, But I "MIGHT" also plan to go to 37's one day but ill start with 35's for now. I will be cutting a decent amount not afraid of that and Im planing on swapping in a Ford Explorer 8.8 in the rear with disc brakes. Im planing to wheel it decently hard core or at least do/keep up with JK's on 37's or 40's and do little Overlanding.

Questions I have are -

Out of all the 8.8 gearing options -
(Open 3.08, Open 3.27, Open 4.10, Open 3.73, Open 3.55, LS 3.73, LS 4.10) which one should I go with? Im planing on running with the 8.8's stock gearing for a while before Im able to upgrade and lock it, and once Im able to upgrade and lock what gearing should I go with for 35's & for 37's? and is there something in between were Im able to just switch back and forth from 35's & 37's?

Also since ill be upgrading the rear end, should I upgrade the front? will the stock D30 hold up fine with 35's or 37's!! or would a swapped front D44 from a TJ be enough? I also know there is other D44 swaps like the Wagoneer, F-150, & Bronco's but don't know too much about those, and Im also trying to keep the stock XJ with as close as possible, reason which Im going with the 8.8 and finally what gearing should I go with in the front for both tire sizes?

I know this a lot to read so I truly appreciate the time reading and the help! feel free let me know what you think of the plan for my build any tips advise or anything helpful thanks a lot!!

 

[Kittrell]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

The TJ 44s are low pinion and expensive when you find them, not worth swapping. With a 2000 you have a low pinion D30. I would personally pick up a Ford HP44 front and narrow it to Wagoneer width and build from there. If you are starting from scratch, it's not much more to build a 44 front. The most expensive parts will be the truss/suspension mounts. I would run 5.13 gears if you are driving this thing on the highway and have 37's in your future.

 

[1-tonxj]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Decided radius arms stay for now they easily allow full cycle of all 18 inches of the struts , So no double TRI 4 link and the track bar will be kept . I started off building a frame side bracket to move my mount forward to clear my upper control arm bracket while cycling the struts so I could get full compression and had planned on just making a new axle side mount and cutting and sleeping the old track bar to a much longer length , but decided the 5/8th heims were on the small size so I just ended up buying all the parts in a parts package from Ruffstuff and starting clean...lol...with parts ready to burn home .

 

[smokeyyank]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

I know this a lot to read so I truly appreciate the time reading and the help! feel free let me know what you think of the plan for my build any tips advise or anything helpful thanks a lot!!

If you want 35's or 37's you're gonna need bigger axles than a 8.8 and D30 if you want to wheel. If you want to mall crawl you'll be fine. 33s are about the max you want to go with out the fear of busting things on that setup. You can get by on 35's with easy throttle but not the best setup. As for gears I had 4.11's and 33's, that was a mistake trying to get up the hill. 31's did fine but after going to 33's I always felt the need for deeper gears. Should have went with 4.56 at the minimum.

Not sure if this is your first build or what your budget is but if it is I'd go a different route.....
-Ditch the LP30 for a HP30
-Swap in 8.8 find one with 31 spline shafts
-Go 4.56
-33x10.5
-Trutrac front and rear or another traction device
-Upgrade steering and draglink
-SYE
-Winch
-Recovery points
-Lift at least 4" with fender trimming; BDS is a good set up, all personal preference and budget.

You'll keep up with JK's and then some. Learn your rig and move up to 37's tons and all the expensive stuff if you want.

If you really want to run 37's just cut to the chase and run tons. Otherwise you're just wasting money to build an inferior axle. Really the words stock and 37's don't go together for XJ's.