Building A HP D30, What Parts & Brands?

[Phil]

Ooops, I still have an Aussie.

One of the nice things about alloy axleshafts is they are already machined for full circle clips on the ears so you don't need to tack weld the u-joint caps. Also, they are new and haven't been stressed for 10-30 years. Also, they are stronger.

 

[MuscleHead]

Well I havent broken anything yet. Im running shafts out a 01Xj. I wouldent weld the cap. Maybe a tack, but then the problem is if you break one on the trail, sometimes it can be hard to get that u-joint out because of the tack. I run spicer 760's and wheel it hard. I have 35 KM2's




I would much rather run stock shafts with spicer 760's, snap a shaft on the trail, throw another one it quick and keep on with your day. If you run alloy's of whatever, and snap one, well then what? Cool if you have the warranty but if not then what? your out $600 for those shafts. You know how many u-joints and junkyard shafts I can buy for $600??

I carry a full set of shafts for the front loaded with new u-joints incase I do blow one, do a quick 30min swap and your good to go.

Well i was planning on carrying spare stock shafts with 760 joints in them. So if my alloys break i have the stocks to slap in to get back out. But i see your point. I may try stock shafts with 760s first to see how long they live. Considering i will have two sets of stock 30 shafts.

 

[MuscleHead]

Ooops, I still have an Aussie.

One of the nice things about alloy axleshafts is they are already machined for full circle clips on the ears so you don't need to tack weld the u-joint caps. Also, they are new and haven't been stressed for 10-30 years. Also, they are stronger.

Thats good to know they are ready for full c clips. Wasnt planning on tacking on the alloys just the stock shafts.

 

[jeeperjohn]

If you build a D30 with alloy axles, a full case locker (I use a detroit) and a sturdy diff cover you should be OK on 35's. If you want added strength, look at gussets and a truss.

 

[MuscleHead]

If you build a D30 with alloy axles, a full case locker (I use a detroit) and a sturdy diff cover you should be OK on 35's. If you want added strength, look at gussets and a truss.

Are all the brands of alloy axles pretty much the same just a different name printed on them or what?

 

[rockclimber]

A huge amount of money and you are still planning on relying on the stock carrier?
When I built my highly polished 30 my first and formost concern was getting a full carrier locker. You won't be needing spare shafts you will be needed
a spare R&P. Sell off your spare chromolly axles and buy a real locker.

really... how often do you hear of guys blowing their R&P on 33"s or 35"s I'll stick with spare shafts. oh and FYI I won't be able to use the stocks as spares because the warn hubs use a different outer.

Why all those crazy expensive parts, then skimp on the locker? If you don't want selectable, get a Detroit, but don't go with a lunchbox locker. I'd say ARB or E-locker for sure, especially for the front.

well, I already have the open carrier geared to 4.56, and I already have the aussie, its just waiting for install. I am getting "all those crazy expensive parts" for less than what it would cost to get a full case locker and have the gears set up again.

if I wasn't getting a smokin' deal on this stuff I wouldn't bother with the 30 at all and would just go with a 44, but this is still going to be cheaper, and arguably better than a 44.


I plan on running it with that setup for as long as I can. if I blow the R&P or the carrier, I will consider going for an ARB or detroit, but will probably end up with a 44.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

Are all the brands of alloy axles pretty much the same just a different name printed on them or what?

Yukons warranty sucks..

My nitros have a lifetime no questions asked warranty..

 

[Built2Flex]

Yukons warranty sucks..

My nitros have a lifetime no questions asked warranty..

I've replaced my Yukon 4340's no questions asked. They have a lifetime warranty. Maybe you didn't check. I can't even find warranty info on Nitro's site. Hmmm...

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=456_457_461&products_id=2916


Yukons warranty a WAS max of 32" tires.. At least that's what was advertised at NWF 10' when two sets were raffled away!

For the record. I am a huge supporter of Yukon gear.. My nitro shafts were free!

 

[sunburned]

http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=456_457_461&products_id=2916


Yukons warranty a WAS max of 32" tires.. At least that's what was advertised at NWF 10' when two sets were raffled away!

For the record. I am a huge supporter of Yukon gear.. My nitro shafts were free!

RCV told me the max tire size for their axles were 40's. On a D30...

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

RCV told me the max tire size for their axles were 40's. On a D30...

If only RCV made lockers and gear sets :firedevil

 

[aintright]

a quick search of parts to build a d60 front. just for a ballpark estimate

d60

housing 250-1000
calipers,discs,pads 160
axle brackets to run a 3 link with heims 573 + shipping
tubing to make your links 60-130
kingpin rubuild kit 70-100
diff cover 100- 180
gears 200-400
install kit 90-150
arb locker 1000
drive slugs 200
steering arms 300
otk steering components and tubing 300
truss 100-200
3100 - 4700

and that is using stock axles, knuckles, and inner c's you can tack on about another 2000 if you want to replace that stuff. don't forget shipping on everything and labor if you can't do it yourself. probably another 500-1200.

so that takes it up to about
5600 - 7900

 

[cdawall]

a quick search of parts to build a d60 front. just for a ballpark estimate

d60

housing 250-1000
calipers,discs,pads 160
axle brackets to run a 3 link with heims 573 + shipping
tubing to make your links 60-130
kingpin rubuild kit 70-100
diff cover 100- 180
gears 200-400
install kit 90-150
arb locker 1000
drive slugs 200
steering arms 300
otk steering components and tubing 300
truss 100-200
3100 - 4700

and that is using stock axles, knuckles, and inner c's you can tack on about another 2000 if you want to replace that stuff. don't forget shipping on everything and labor if you can't do it yourself. probably another 500-1200.

so that takes it up to about
5600 - 7900

my entire D60 cost $92 high pinion ford balljoint.

local places are alot cheaper for DOM and heims can be had cheaper than that...

 

[jeannies_driver]

really... how often do you hear of guys blowing their R&P on 33"s or 35"s I'll stick with spare shafts. oh and FYI I won't be able to use the stocks as spares because the warn hubs use a different outer.

More than you think. Once you get to 4.56 or 4.88 the frequency is a LOT more without stock shafts in there. Most alloy shafts/joints are stronger than the pinion and it is now the weak point.

I wouldn't run those hubs in your 30 either. They are/were discontinued last time I checked and I knew 2 people running them with built axles. Plan on breaking a set about every trip out since they will be the weakest link now. I've also seen them blow and take out the pinion from the backlash.

I've recently watched Nitro's blow in a 60 on some lame stuff and that seems to be the going rate with them. Yukons seem to be holding up well but the RCV's are the cat's meow if you can afford them.

 

[Built2Flex]

http://www.justdifferentials.com/in... I don't know where you're finding a problem.

 

[jeeperjohn]

Are all the brands of alloy axles pretty much the same just a different name printed on them or what?

Don't know much about the difference between axle manufacturers but I run Alloy USA (ten factory is the new company) and if I had to replace them I would get ten factory or nitro.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

They have warrantied my shafts knowing I'm running 35's. In fact the Fab shop I work at NEVER has had a warranty problem with Yukon warranty, on any of their stuff. I don't know where you're finding a problem.

I get a strong sense of penis envy from you.. Chill with the defensive attitude

 

[MuscleHead]

a quick search of parts to build a d60 front. just for a ballpark estimate

d60

housing 250-1000
calipers,discs,pads 160
axle brackets to run a 3 link with heims 573 + shipping
tubing to make your links 60-130
kingpin rubuild kit 70-100
diff cover 100- 180
gears 200-400
install kit 90-150
arb locker 1000
drive slugs 200
steering arms 300
otk steering components and tubing 300
truss 100-200
3100 - 4700

and that is using stock axles, knuckles, and inner c's you can tack on about another 2000 if you want to replace that stuff. don't forget shipping on everything and labor if you can't do it yourself. probably another 500-1200.

so that takes it up to about
5600 - 7900

I think you misread the topic.

 

[MuscleHead]

Yukons warranty sucks..

My nitros have a lifetime no questions asked warranty..

I've replaced my Yukon 4340's no questions asked. They have a lifetime warranty. Maybe you didn't check. I can't even find warranty info on Nitro's site. Hmmm...

I didnt know either of these companies had such a good warranty. Can anyone confirm the tire size limits on both of these. I was planning on running yukon gears. Do their gear sets have any warranty period on them?

 

[rockclimber]

More than you think. Once you get to 4.56 or 4.88 the frequency is a LOT more without stock shafts in there. Most alloy shafts/joints are stronger than the pinion and it is now the weak point.

no, the hubs are the weak point... not to mention I am only running 33"s now and only planning on running 35"s on this jeep.

I wouldn't run those hubs in your 30 either. They are/were discontinued last time I checked and I knew 2 people running them with built axles. Plan on breaking a set about every trip out since they will be the weakest link now. I've also seen them blow and take out the pinion from the backlash.

Currie still sells the hubs. and yes they are the weak point, but they have been running in my buddy's YJ on 35"s 4.56 with nothing but johnson valley wheeling, jackhammer, clawhammer, Outer-limits, etc still tight. plus I am getting 2 fully assembled spare hubs.


but you are right, I wouldn't pay retail for any of this stuff, I would use the money (and a lot less of it) for a 44. but since I am getting a smoking deal on these parts it is worth it. hell, I am getting the whole axle built (minus the R&P that is already in there) for less than the hub conversion would be new.

I've recently watched Nitro's blow in a 60 on some lame stuff and that seems to be the going rate with them. Yukons seem to be holding up well but the RCV's are the cat's meow if you can afford them.

the weak point in any d30 alloy shaft is still the U-joint, slap a CTM in there and you aren't going to hurt it on 35"s but there goes that money issue again.

but RCV's sure are cool:clap: