I finally got to replace my cracked OE 'header' w/a new one f/ APN. This appears to be a great piece with an even better price. That part can be located here http://www.autopn.com/store/pc/viewp...dProduct=20009
Everything seemed to go well, except for the fact that I couldn't tighten the bolt behind the center pipes on the right side. I could not get my fingers, socket and barely a wrench on there. The problem was that once I finally was able to get a wrench on there it didn't want to tighten up. It almost felt as if I was cross-threading the darn thing. Not sure how that could have happened since I started all the bolts by hand... but alas, I didn't tighten that bolt up and hopefully it won't cause a leak as all others are snugged to specs via a torque wrench. Anyone have this same problem???
OK... here's some pics.
Here's what came in the package:
Here's a close up of the welds and it appears this header is made w/quality welds and steel. Advertised as 321 stainless. Only time will tell.
Here's after all OE stuff removed and prior to cleaning the valve area and old gasket off.
Here's a side by side pic of the OE vs APN headers
And here's a closeup of the cracked OE pipe.
I may take this OE pipe in to a shop and have it welded up. Or perhaps I'll just talk my brother into welding it up for me. He's a professional welder... much better than I.
I didn't really have any trouble, other than the stubborn and hard to get to bolt. I would suggest a bit of a redesign of these headers to allow better access to all the bolts. Also, another small complaint I have... where the header pipe joins to the downpipe... the way the bend it on the flange f/the header it makes it impossible to drop the new bolts f/the top side down. You have to come f/the bottom side up on one side and can drop the bolts down on the other.
I haven't noticed any seat of the pants gain (not that I had planned to) but I did notice that I can finally hear my flowmaster muffler versus the HUGE exhaust leak coming f/the cracked header.
If you have any questions I'd be happy to give my best answer. If anyone has any tips or how-tos on how to get that loose bolt tightened up I'd appreciate it.
All in all... took me about 6.5 hours f/start to finish and it was HOTTTTTTT in my garage this past Saturday. I also took the time to clean the intake and exhaust ports and the intake manifold. Probably could have cut that time in 1/2 if not for the stubborn bolt and spending so much time wipping sweat f/my face and out of my eyes.
Next I'll be changing out my motor mounts and tranny mount. I don't want this header to crack and those need replaced anyhow.
BTW, if anyone wants high-res pics let me know and I can email. thanks.
Everything seemed to go well, except for the fact that I couldn't tighten the bolt behind the center pipes on the right side. I could not get my fingers, socket and barely a wrench on there. The problem was that once I finally was able to get a wrench on there it didn't want to tighten up. It almost felt as if I was cross-threading the darn thing. Not sure how that could have happened since I started all the bolts by hand... but alas, I didn't tighten that bolt up and hopefully it won't cause a leak as all others are snugged to specs via a torque wrench. Anyone have this same problem???
OK... here's some pics.
Here's what came in the package:
Here's a close up of the welds and it appears this header is made w/quality welds and steel. Advertised as 321 stainless. Only time will tell.
Here's after all OE stuff removed and prior to cleaning the valve area and old gasket off.
Here's a side by side pic of the OE vs APN headers
And here's a closeup of the cracked OE pipe.
I may take this OE pipe in to a shop and have it welded up. Or perhaps I'll just talk my brother into welding it up for me. He's a professional welder... much better than I.
I didn't really have any trouble, other than the stubborn and hard to get to bolt. I would suggest a bit of a redesign of these headers to allow better access to all the bolts. Also, another small complaint I have... where the header pipe joins to the downpipe... the way the bend it on the flange f/the header it makes it impossible to drop the new bolts f/the top side down. You have to come f/the bottom side up on one side and can drop the bolts down on the other.
I haven't noticed any seat of the pants gain (not that I had planned to) but I did notice that I can finally hear my flowmaster muffler versus the HUGE exhaust leak coming f/the cracked header.
If you have any questions I'd be happy to give my best answer. If anyone has any tips or how-tos on how to get that loose bolt tightened up I'd appreciate it.
All in all... took me about 6.5 hours f/start to finish and it was HOTTTTTTT in my garage this past Saturday. I also took the time to clean the intake and exhaust ports and the intake manifold. Probably could have cut that time in 1/2 if not for the stubborn bolt and spending so much time wipping sweat f/my face and out of my eyes.
Next I'll be changing out my motor mounts and tranny mount. I don't want this header to crack and those need replaced anyhow.
BTW, if anyone wants high-res pics let me know and I can email. thanks.