SeanP said:Ball valve: Get a good quality one. Run SS line from the master cyclinder to the ball valve and more SS from the valve to the t-fitting on the rear axle. Step on brakes, flip the valve and the vehicle will stay. Read on PBB of folks having it hold for 6 months and no bleed-down. Still you are using hydro to hold the vehilce , which according the DOT is big no-no. I had the caddy calipers on my old 9" rear discs and they sucked balls big time.
SeanP
BUCKYXJ said:My main reason for doing this is I don't trust emergency brakes never have never will. I am just talking about the emergency brake please explain the ball valve thing or line lock as for DOT approved I think if the DOT saw my jeep they would crap their pants.
Thanks
As always keep Diggin IT.
Rev Den said:I am sure you thought of this...but just in case. Remember that a brake on the DS will only hold the vehicle on a slick surface if the diff is locked-up, otherwise one wheel can spin while the vehicle moves in the other direction.
Just my .02
Rev
C-ROK said:Uh, no.
In order for tires to turn with the drive shaft locked, they need to turn in opposite directions.
This is an impossible scenario assuming there is equal friction on the two tires.
Also, only a full spool does not allow for a wheel to turn at all with the DS locked. All auto lockers will allow the axle to turn faster than the ring gear, just not slower.
Rev Den said:<snip>I wheel on dry pavment</snip>
Rev
Rev Den said:I had it happen, icy driveway in Chicago....I wheel on dry pavment, 1 wheel one ice, watched truck roll/slide into street. Given equal friction you are correct....sorry, should have explained it better.
Rev
SeanP said:High Angle has one for the atlas, but you have to use the 1350 flange fitting with it. The whole she'bang was going to cost me $700 all said and done with a new drive line.
Electric line locks are not good, they will over heat after a while plus you don't want electricity holding the vehicle in place.
Ball valve: Get a good quality one. Run SS line from the master cyclinder to the ball valve and more SS from the valve to the t-fitting on the rear axle. Step on brakes, flip the valve and the vehicle will stay. Read on PBB of folks having it hold for 6 months and no bleed-down. Still you are using hydro to hold the vehilce , which according the DOT is big no-no. I had the caddy calipers on my old 9" rear discs and they sucked balls big time.
SeanP
C-ROK said:An FYI on using a ball valve:
I have been told that under panic stop conditions brake line pressures can exceed 1000 psi. I would make very sure you are getting a valve rated for this pressure of service.
I guess you could calc your piston dia times the pedal force (adding vac booster force) and get an estimate.
C-ROK said:I think you miss the point.
If the valve is in the line and the line pressure goes to 1000 psi, the valve needs to be able to handle the pressure.
Being able to hold pressure has nothing to do with it. It has to hold together under pressure.
The solenoid in an electric line lock is holding the valve closed and must be continuously energized to do so. The solenoids on electric line locks are not rated for continuous duty. If you left it on for longer than it was rated it could overheat and trip off - opening the valve.
FWIW, I run an electric line lock on my Jeep and have for a few years. I did most of the research on them years ago while I was building.
I went with electric for simplicity (wires were easier to run than steel brake lines). Mine's on the front axle and I only use it for offroad manuevering and the occasional burnout
I have a regular e-brake on the rear and a "P" in the tranny.