A pain in my rear end (D35)

[3XJFamily]

a buddy of mine has alocked d35 with and and 35s and hasnt had a problem wiht it and hes had it for over 10 yrs so i dk why yins trash the 35 all the time but all i would do is run it they way you want and if it does break then upgrade then it easier that way

http://carcino.gen.nz/images/index.php/00b9a680/463c5922

 

[XJeremy23]

For me it's just about simple peace of mind. It's a known fact that the D35 will fail if subjected to forces that exceed it's design limitations. Sometimes just "taking it easy" is not enough to avoid breakage. If you only wheel close to home and with others who don't mind helping you out if you break down then you might be O.K. with a D35. But if you wheel far from home, by yourself, or with people who get bent out of shape when they are delayed by a broken rig on the trail, you can have more peace of mind with a rear that is proven to hold up better, such as the 8.25, D44, or 8.8. In the long run I would go with a stronger axle. $.02.

Um... just about anything will fail when subjected to forces that it exceed it's design limitations.

I was lucky enough to pick up a 44 out of a junk yard and I just kept it in my garage until the 35 broke. It wasn't offroad abuse that finally broke the 35. I think picking the right lines and driving smart help keep things together. The 35 failed on me when I was being stupid and power breaking it and spinning the tire(s) on dry pavement with 33X9.50s. Neither of the axles broke, it was the spider gears in the open diff that spit some teeth out. But I was just around the corner from my house so I limped it home and swapped in the 44 I had waiting.

 

[bl87xj]

Yeah, that is my current train of thought. Keep my eye out for a bolt in D44. Then slowly get it ready for the swap...no real rush.

I am really a mild trail crawler. I don't like to spin and hop, I don't seek out obsticals to drive over and don't have a problem taking easy lines and/or bypasses if needed. BUT, I don't want to have to turn around and go home.

 

[icu_runnin]

People seem to forget the Isuzu crowd. The 97+ rodeo's came with D44's with disc in the rear and if you want something stronger thats not c-clipped and that is a third member design, go for the Isuzu corporate 12 bolt. Its has disc brakes, 4.56s' stock and is stronger than a D44. just some food for thought.

 

[87manche]

People seem to forget the Isuzu crowd. The 97+ rodeo's came with D44's with disc in the rear and if you want something stronger thats not c-clipped and that is a third member design, go for the Isuzu corporate 12 bolt. Its has disc brakes, 4.56s' stock and is stronger than a D44. just some food for thought.

yeah, but what's the bolt pattern for the wheels?
running two sets of wheels front and back would be a pain.
you could get some adapters though

 

[Speed_racer]

I only personally know ONE person who's been sucessful running a d35 above stock that wheels...

Shit, mine broke in my buddies driveway...

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

yeah, but what's the bolt pattern for the wheels?
running two sets of wheels front and back would be a pain.
you could get some adapters though

Just swap the front to a Waggy 44, same 6 lug pattern as the Isuzu

.....not that that's practical or anything!

 

[lamula]

so lets go down the list ----WORST TO BEST ----rear ends for the XJ
1= D35
2=8.25
3=8.8
4=D44
5=D60
6=CORP
What do you guy's think, just curious

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

Well, I wouldn't say a Corporate 14bolt or D60 would be the best choice if you only running 35s or smaller, or a D30 front for that matter. There is always compromise.....the main thing is to get rid of the 35 if you plan to wheel it!

Now your list would be accurate for WEAKEST TO STRONGEST, although many will argue the 8.8 is a little stronger than a 44, it just has C-clips (not a strength factor BTW, just better not to have them if you do break)

You can also throw the Isuzu 12 bolt and toyota 3rd member axles in between the 44 and 60.