Mylesofsmyles
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Francisco, CA, USA
'84-85 2.5L cylinder head: 8350 0675 or 8350 1411 (not sure which is which)
'86-90 2.5L cylinder head: Injected (#2403) 8350 2487 Carbed (#2405) 8350 2488
-- the TB injected head was superceded by 3300 7115 (same as '91-98 MPI) while the carbed head was superceded by 5302 0183 (same as '91-98 Carbed)
'91-98 2.5L cylinder head: Injected (unknown casting number) 3300 7115 Carbed (unknown casting number, only used on US vehicles till 93 and export till 96) 5302 0183
'99 2.5L cylinder head: Injected (unknown casting number) 3300 7115AB which indicates that it's just a revised version of the earlier 3300 7115 head
What year did the donor motor come from? Based off what I just found you should be A-OK as long as it's in the 86-99 range, I can't find any cross ref or superceded numbers for the 84-85 heads but you probably aren't looking at an engine that old anyways. There apparently weren't any 2.5L 00s or 01s so that's no concern.
EDIT - The only thing I would worry about is sensors - I know on a '90 4cyl there is no knock sensor, while on 89 (?) and earlier there is and it's mounted near the front, and I'm pretty sure 91 and later there is no knock sensor. If the hole for the knock sensor goes through the block into an oil gallery or something you should simply get the sensor with the engine and leave it disconnected as a dummy plug to fill the hole. You may also want to transfer your valve cover since the 90 and maybe later valve covers were plastic, I think the 92 was metal but I'm not sure. Also the RMS on a 2.5 is a one-piece so you should likely replace it before you install the engine just to keep from having to drop the tranny later.
engine is coming from an '88.
oil is leaking from the valve cover...these cars have timing belts or chains? was going to change oil seals, clutch and belts before I reinstall it. whats an RMS...rear main seal, gonna change that out any way!
maybe if my 2.5l had a knock sensor, it wouldn't have knocked...then again, maybe it's broken. the guy told me i gotta go pull the motor myself, so gonna try and do that next week. hopefully the truck is still running so i can at least hear it before I commit to it. i don't have the time, money, space or patience for a motor rebuild right now, so just hoping to spend $200 on a used engine, and re-seal and drop that biatch in!
I think I'm going to take the holiday to pull my blown motor, that should at least get me started...can i do this without pulling the tranny? there seems to be plenty of space to reach the bell housing bolts...I've only pulled motors out of Mazda Miata's and have always removed them with the transmission.