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33's or 35's?

If it were mine i'd go 33's with the teralow and stock gearing. But i dont drive mine on the road very often, Go with some 4:10 or 4:56 gears on 33's and run it.
 
Look at a gear ratio vs tire size chart and see what you want. It could be that you want more power or maybe more fuel efficiency. The chart puts it all together for you. That's what I did and I ended up with 4.56's. If I were to do it again I would go with 4.88's because it is not a daily driver.

Oh yes... I'm running 33's, but if you put a tape measure to them there only 31.5" tall.
 
Go 35's you won't regret it. I think you said you had a 90 cherokee? Since you don't have the HO 4.0 I would totally go with 4.88's. I have a 92 cherokee 4.0 and Ax15 with 35 Goodyear Mt/r's and I love it. I am a college student so I had to go cheap and go with 4.10's for different reasons. It is alright I can still drive on the highway but usually going uphill I have to switch to 4th gear. I run a D30 with Alloy USA shafts and an Aussie locker and Ford 8.8 in the rear. I have been wheeling a bit and got into some tough situations and haven't broken a thing. I suggest getting Alloys and keeping your stock D30 shafts for spares. Hope this helps! :moon:
 
Thanks sheeks... I'm really leaning towards doing that, except for when I put alloys in..... haha

Run the stockers till they break, then put in the alloys, and carry the other stockers for spares!

4low, I have looked at a ratio chart before... I'm thinking that 4.88's on 35's should probably be quite reasonable mileage? No?
 
oh, by the way... I likely WILL be out at hollister on the 12th.
 
haha

they WERE mentioned!!! I think...

34's would be fine, but they're a little harder to get than the very readily available 33's or 35's...



Ok, so opinion time now...

Should I go 35X12.5's on 4.88's with the stock D30, and an 8.8 rear and run it till something breaks, then replace whatever broke?
 
well, that's one vote for YES!
 
tayman said:
Should I go 35X12.5's on 4.88's with the stock D30, and an 8.8 rear and run it till something breaks, then replace whatever broke?
Click to expand...

yes...

except get some Alloy USA shafts for the 30 BEFORE you break, and then you wont have to be broken on the trail...
 
One thing no one really conciders is braking.

33" and 35" both suck for stopping power without having WJ front discs, Explorer rear discs and a master cylinder/booster swap. Who cares how fast it can go.

It's more important to be able to stop when a young kid runs into the street....

33" tires= 4.56 gears

35" tires= 4.88gears
 
tayman said:
haha

they WERE mentioned!!! I think...

34's would be fine, but they're a little harder to get than the very readily available 33's or 35's...



Ok, so opinion time now...

Should I go 35X12.5's on 4.88's with the stock D30, and an 8.8 rear and run it till something breaks, then replace whatever broke?
Click to expand...

Yes...

But, go ahead and have the Alloys ready since it's going to break the first good time you get one it.
 
TNT said:
One thing no one really conciders is braking.

33" and 35" both suck for stopping power without having WJ front discs, Explorer rear discs and a master cylinder/booster swap. Who cares how fast it can go.
Click to expand...

actually, I have thought about it... I know they're a lot harder to stop...
-One of the reasons for the 8.8.

How hard is the WJ disc swap? just rotors? just calipers? both? entire knuckle?

It's more important to be able to stop when a young kid runs into the street....
Click to expand...

Very, very true...:thumbup:
 
lowrange2 said:
Yes...

But, go ahead and have the Alloys ready since it's going to break the first good time you get one it.
Click to expand...

haha FINE!!! my issue is, though.... uh... money. who'da thunk it??? hahaha

so now I have issues..... I need to do something about my control arms (meaning money...) I need an 8.8... (meaning more money...) and I need tires..... (meaning even more money) and I need gears (meaning still more money...) and now I need alloys... (meaning even still more money...)

in other words, I'm looking at some pretty good coin to do all this.....

what the hell comes first?????? My control arm angles suck, and my tires suck..... gears are too high, and axles are too weak...:bawl::bawl::bawl::bawl::bawl::bawl:
 
RE 4.5" kit, 4.56, lockers, 33s. Currie steering. Carry spare shafts. Done.

RE 5.5" kit, 4.88s, lockers, alloys, Tera high steer. 35s. Carry spares. Done.

RE Hack and Tap SYE either way. With a manual, everyone who's tried it will tell you Tera 4:1, Atlas 4.3:1, or Atlas 5:1.

Bring it as-is to Hollister, see what you like and what you don't. I have a strap if you need to borrow my lockers for a little bit.

tayman said:
haha FINE!!! my issue is, though.... uh... money. who'da thunk it??? hahaha

so now I have issues..... I need to do something about my control arms (meaning money...) I need an 8.8... (meaning more money...) and I need tires..... (meaning even more money) and I need gears (meaning still more money...) and now I need alloys... (meaning even still more money...)

in other words, I'm looking at some pretty good coin to do all this.....

what the hell comes first?????? My control arm angles suck, and my tires suck..... gears are too high, and axles are too weak...:bawl::bawl::bawl::bawl::bawl::bawl:
Click to expand...
 
tayman said:
actually, I have thought about it... I know they're a lot harder to stop...
-One of the reasons for the 8.8.

How hard is the WJ disc swap? just rotors? just calipers? both? entire knuckle?



Very, very true...:thumbup:
Click to expand...

The WJ swap was quite spendy but I'm satisfied with it. It replaces everything from the ball joints out. Then you have to remake all your steering and tracbar.
 
Bring it as-is to Hollister, see what you like and what you don't. I have a strap if you need to borrow my lockers for a little bit.
Click to expand...

I'm no stranger to hollister hills...

I can tell you the worst thing right now.... TIRES!!! I'm just kinda annoyed at my control arms, cause I'm still on stock arms... (yeah, I know... they suck...)

I can make it up white rock with coaxing... I tried a couple weeks ago, but it was real loose... no dice. now that I think about it though, I could've done it in 4Low and 2nd... My buddy (norcalchris) made it up, but he's got an auto on off road tires... I just kept spinning out, and (now I know) I couldn't get enough momentum.....

I'll see ya there for sure.
 
Last edited:
Why the F8.8 over the D44?

I know the F8.8 is a bit stronger and has rear discs, but the D44 (from an XJ) is a straight swap which doesn't require the extra work.

Or am I missing something?

Where I live, the F8.8 and D44 are going to cost me the about the same amount. The F8.8 has 4.10:1 gears in it already (matching my front), but requires the extra parts and work.

The D44 would have to be regeared. Again, cost wise it appears to be a wash.

Is the aftermarket support about equal for the two?
 
I go 8.8 over D44, because they're a helluva lot cheaper here... the XJ D44's are hard to find, and you can find the 8.8 on any explorer.

So basically, money, and ease of finding... and, you said it yourself, the 8.8 already has discs and is stronger!
 
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