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Tube Rockers Question: Beef vs Weight

Thx man.

Honestly the tube isnt dented anywhere. I think with proper tieins that thickness would be fine. The main problem is there are only tieins at the front and rear leaving the middle unsupported. And those tieins are 1-1/2 thin wall tubing. They just bent up till the tube hit something more substantial. Wall thickness of the rail was not the failure point imo it was the design. I personally wouldnt have any problem using 1/8” wall in a 2x6 configuration. Especially if it is being cut into the rockers and welded in with 4 or so proper frame tieins. It is substantially lighter.

At 64" per side, the .125 wall is about 16 lb lighter per side than .188 wall (6.46 lb/ft vs 9.42 lb/ft per Metals Depot). I could support an argument that the .125 wall is the efficient choice in that it is sufficiently robust and has a benefit of being lighter, but I'm not going to lose sleep over 32 lb. Hell, my toolbox is heavier than that.

I am surprised to see how many people only run 2 or even 3 supports. IMO distributing the load is the most important part of this mod, or any other structural mod on the body of these, like a bumper tie in or a cage.
 
Tonights fun, checking out a trail offcours getting stuck in the rocks. Love my 2x8 3/16 tubes
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I haven't seen in mentioned, but please excuse me if it was, but putting a strip of material along the outside edge gives a jack something to grab on to as opposed to just the flat bottom of the tube. If you use a piece of angle along the outside edge, it reinforces in it both directions, potentially allowing you to use a thinner tube, especially if you're gusseting it and skinning it a la "boatside".
 
Evan, do you have any issues with the tube hitting the inside of your thigh while getting in? My XJ is just at the right height that I can kind of slide in to the seat and I'm always leery over the winter of getting junk on my light colored pants... I hit the jam now from time to time but it's not nearly as dirty as the rocker will be.

Secondly, I'm guessing that the 2x8 isn't enough to make a decent step... Need to add one for the less-than-full-height people in my life but I don't want tubes sticking out nor down. Been drooling over those rockers w/ swing down steps from Rock Slide Engineering. I have put together a concept for a XJ worthy version (none of this sheetmetal step BS like RSE is trying to pass off) but actually building them may be a step too far right now; guess it's all in what I'm willing to pay...
 
Correct they don't make a good step. Theres about 1.75" passed the door

Youl nktice them being kinda aquard getting in and out and probly get pants dirty.

They are perfect to land tube fenders on and protect the sides from trees and rocks or other vehicles.

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Thanks for the info. Always a million and a half factors to consider; that's what makes this stuff fun...

ehhh... your not building a piano, dont over think it.

if you want to do it once and never look back, go thick and be done with it. if you are ok with possible rework in the name of saving a few pounds, go lighter. the only real thing to consider is your honest usage. someone who drives down 2 tracks a couple times a year doesnt need the same protection as the guy wheeling at the hammers every month.
 
^This.

"Over-Designed is Under-Rated". Or, if you prefer, "there's no kill like overkill"...
 
Just want to pop in to follow-up with this topic to show off what I did.

2x6x.188 with four 1.5x1.5x.125 braces and a 1.75x120 DOM rub rail. Got burnt out before I could do boat side skins. Maybe another time.

I'm very happy with the material selection I chose. I do think that a .188 wall rub rail would be nice, and I could've gotten away with a .125 wall 2x6, but the thicker DOM was super expensive and had a long lead time, and the thicker main rail is good peace of mind. What's a few extra pounds between friends? ;)

Full write-up here:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/mitchs-2x6-rockers-door-trimming-263142/
 
Nice work!
 
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