• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

33's or 35's?

85xj4dr said:
Go Dana 60 front and rear, 36'' maxxis creepy crawlers. 5.13's, lockers front and rear.

Make that 37" creepies...... they dont make 36's :D
 
ok guys, I'm not going over 35's...., so we're looking at what will work for what I am going to be doing with it..... 33's, 34's or 35's!!!

You avatar, sir, is DEFINATLEY not a Jeep. But I ain't complaining.

yeah, you got a larger pic of that???
 
1986XJIan said:
I'm sorta having the same problem. I currently have 35's and my choice is to upgrade the D35 or downsize the tires.

well, you already have the 35's..... It's probably cheaper to upgrade the axle. do what I'm planning on and get an 8.8 outta a ford exploder... I don't know about where you live, but around here they are many!
 
33's will get you over the Rubicon, but 35's look so good. I had a 3.5" lift with 32's and did fine over the con. However, I was dragging everything and came out with a little body damage. Nothing to major, but a taller tire and bigger lift would have made things a little easier for sure. I have been debating the same thing 33 or 35, only my dana 30 is pretty polished, alloys and trussed. Everyone is telling me 33's, but the wife said "I am excited about the cherokee on 35's!" I love that woman, but she aint gonna help me replace shafts on the trail, lol. Good luck with the decision.
 
more information about Hollister on April 12 -
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=945410

if you come out, i'll let you drive my ax-15 rig on 35's with 5.13's and a tera-low... and you wont ever want to think about 4.56's ever again...

you should come out and look at peoples rigs and get some ideas.

:patriot:
 
I ran 35's on an aussie locked D30 and sheared my ring gear. Everything else held fine but I think that 35's put a LOT of stress on that little axle. My opinion is, it's an inevitablity that you'll break stuff with 35's and a D30 unless you spend some serious coin polishing it.

(but if you decide to upgrade to alloys, you should buy mine in the sierra for sale section! wink wink)
 
I'll definately try to make it out! I have a bike race the next day, so I probably can't be out there too long.....
 
soxyfarmer said:
I ran 35's on an aussie locked D30 and sheared my ring gear. Everything else held fine but I think that 35's put a LOT of stress on that little axle. My opinion is, it's an inevitablity that you'll break stuff with 35's and a D30 unless you spend some serious coin polishing it.

(but if you decide to upgrade to alloys, you should buy mine in the sierra for sale section! wink wink)

just outta curiosity, what was your gearing? won't slightly higher gearing lessen your likihood of breaking stuff?
 
tayman said:
just outta curiosity, what was your gearing? won't slightly higher gearing lessen your likihood of breaking stuff?

I had 4.88's. Actually, the lower geared (numerically higher) the higher your chances of R + P failure. Wish I would've known that before! :sad1: I would definatly suggest getting the strongest composition gears possible if you are gearing down low.

My $000.02
 
I had 4.88's. Actually, the lower geared (numerically higher) the higher your chances of R + P failure. Wish I would've known that before!

see, that's what I said if you read closer... I know a little about what I'm talking about... haha.

I was thinking of doing 4.56's, so I guess that would make it a LITTLE less likely to break stuff... where would that put me in relation to stock gearing?
 
tayman said:
see, that's what I said if you read closer... I know a little about what I'm talking about... haha.

I was thinking of doing 4.56's, so I guess that would make it a LITTLE less likely to break stuff... where would that put me in relation to stock gearing?

you have an ax-15...

you need the deepest gears your axles allow and still be able to maintain 75mph on the freeway...

trust me... go 4.88...
 
FWIW, i think that saying 33's or 35's is rather vague and there is no finite answer. There are so many variables to consider...

Stock or Alloy Shafts?
Actual tire height as opposed to advertised?
Tire Width?
Tire brand; Swamper's are alot heavier than most.
Tire type; Radial's are typically lighter than Bias.
Rim material; again weight.
Rim Backspacing.
Rim Width.
That's just a few off the top of my head. Everything is relative.

Run what you want, if it breaks it needed replacing anyway. -Murphy's Law

HTH -B
 
Run what you want, if it breaks it needed replacing anyway. -Murphy's Law
hah, I like it... basically my philosophy!

as far as the rest of the stuff.....

I'm thinking run stock shafts till they break...

probably advertised height, because I'm too lazy to look for "actual" (who knows, I might get lucky...)

as far as width probably 11.5 12.5 for 35's, and either 10.5, 11.5 or 12.5 for 33's

probably radials.

I have black steel wheels... not sure of backspacing... probably like 4"

8" rim I believe.

I think I answered everything...

now what???

Is the consensus that I should run 35's and 4.88's till I break shit, then replace it with stronger shit???
 
Back
Top