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3" or 4.5" complete lift

If your going 33x12.5 you'll probably have to trim or at least boost your lift a bit with spacers/shackles.

Research rim set back before you buy.

My 88 (I think they have a little bigger wheel wells) cleared 33's with a RE 3.5 kit for street driving. With a spacer/shackle boost it will tuck and rub the flares on the trail. Both would have hit front bumper returns that I had already trimmed off.

Consider 10.5's. will allow for more back spacing and/or clearance from control arms and springs. They will be a little lighter and allow for a narrower/lighter rim.

I am on 33x10.5 on stock rims. RE 3.5" kit with 1" shackles and 2" coil spacers.

I tuck and rub at full flex with stock flares. And I rub control arms at full lock.

I suggest you get the lift installed and sorted out first. Then you can measure your clearance and make a tire/wheel decision, then evaluate your driveline vibes

I didn't have vibe problems, but did the SYE when I did my axles mainly so I didn't have to worry about the SY dropping out when flexing.

Remember: SYE will add drive shaft. Tires over 31 will be best with regear............it never stops.

If your just looking for a more aggressive stance for a DD/fire road explorer, I would not go past 3.5" or 31/32". There is a lot of better places to upgrade and improve that you can benifit from.
 
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I didn't have vibe problems, but did the SYE when I did my axles mainly so I didn't have to worry about the SY dropping out when flexing.

Keep in mind when you droop the leafs roll forward and push the shaft in, when you compress it pulls the shaft out... I witnessed this with my own 2 eyes on my buddies jeep.
Same with TC drops, they slide the shaft deeper into the transfer case...
 
Yes, the first gens are a bit more generous in terms of wheel arches.
 
Thanks for the great tips. I think I'm willing to trim fenders but still wanna read up on that.

After the lift I'll definitely be regearing at some point. I'm thinking 33s still.
 
So in addition to the lift, to correct any drive issues I will need to shim, SYE and TC drop? All 3? When I lift I would like to correct any drive issues so I don't create unnecessary wear and tear.

The SYE is to allow a steeper angle on your driveshaft than the t-case drop itself will allow. Typically you do SYE and shims OR the t-case drop. Not sure why anyone is recommending all 3 for a maximum of 4.5" of lift. Also, there's a price to pay as whatever angle you lessen at the rear with a t-case drop, you also steepen the angle of the front shaft, making it more prone to vibes.

The shims rotate the pinion to the correct angle for the SYE.
driveshaftangle.jpg
 
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Love the graphic!
So is the lower image with the SYE and shims? I'm new to this stuff and gotta start somewhere. I've been reading tons, though.
 
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