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3" or 4.5" complete lift

What exactly is this hybrid kit? That page doesn't say what makes it a hybrid.

It's a "hybrid" because of the mix of DPG, JKS and Old Man Emu parts..

The combinations that DPG puts together have all been tried, tested and proven and DPG is one of those rare companies that you're very hard-pressed to find anyone with anything bad to say about them..
 
Awesome, thanks for the great info, dudes! I think I'm going to go with the RE6030 or RE6025, but might throw on a few other components on there.

Would a shim be in lieu of the YSE?
 
So in addition to the lift, to correct any drive issues I will need to shim, SYE and TC drop? All 3? When I lift I would like to correct any drive issues so I don't create unnecessary wear and tear.
 
I got a DPG Offroad kit and i LOVE it .

Dirk provided me with the best service ive had from any company in any buisness. Fielding Numerous calls and questions Before, During and after Purchase .

Also the kit was complete enough that i went for about a year before adding anything to it. I did the wait and see method on the driveline vibes and i had none . I did the S.Y.E. and shimmed about a year later to ensure long life in my d-shaft joints . (that had finally went bad at 130,mi)

Heres my Build thread http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1080904

Also if you do a sye and shim you do not need a trans drop .
at least AFAIK
 
So in addition to the lift, to correct any drive issues I will need to shim, SYE and TC drop? All 3? When I lift I would like to correct any drive issues so I don't create unnecessary wear and tear.

No. The shim is to correct the driveshaft u-joint angles. Without out a shim you might bind up the u-joint at the pinion. They come in different angles also. I think I have a 4 degree shim in mine.

Don't do a TC drop. it's just a band-aid that most regret doing. And it's unnecessary if you install an SYE.

SYE is to prevent driveline vibrations. You will most likely need to do this which means you will need a new driveshaft.

I used Advanced Adapter's SYE and Tom Woods driveshaft. If you can turn a wrench, you can install the SYE, it's easy.
 
I didnt get to in depth on reading everyone's post but here's my question's...
Are you going to trim the fenders or keep the stock flares?
Are you going to get aftermarket wheels that stick out further?
Are you lookin to add a winch or aftermarket bumpers?
Are you looking for cool guy status with a big lift or actual function?

I've done a lot of reading about low center of gravity rigs and KTMracer419 is very wise with why lower is better, his competition rig is 2.5" of lift on 37" tires. I've read this a lot and if I could go lower than 4" with the suspension I'm after I would

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/low-cog-suspension-setup-tricks-tips-revised-9-24-12-a-32980/

If it was me I would stick with a good solid complete 3" lift, trim the fenders as needed and but what you can afford, long arms will be a softer ride but it doesn't mean it flexes much better than short arms, I have short arms and ill still get the same 12" shock travel that the long arms get... Shock position is in the same place so overall travel will be the same... What's going to limit your flex is your steering brake lines and track bar and your lower control arms if they don't have any bend to them.

If your looking to add a winch with a cable your looking to drop your front an inch or so rear with a tire carrier about the same so plan for that.

You can compensate a stiff ride with softer springs and shocks. Mine rides a little stiff empty but loaded for camping and trail use it rides great.

There is a lot to look into for a lift, if it were me to do it all over again I would still look at iron rock Offroad and get their 3.5" solid leaf pack for $319, it's only 10% stiffer than stock and same for their 3" coils for 109, I would get their lower control arms for $129-169 and double sheer track bar for $200 your sitting at about 800 there, get some shocks and $100 brake lines and you should be all set for around $1200 if your planning for a winch bumper in the future all you would need is a coil spacer up front to compensate for the height difference of 1-2". Same with the rear, a shackle would be a great add on later.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=IROR&Category_Code=XLK

Hope all this helps, your going to get 100 different answers on why their setup is better, it's all in what you want and can afford, some 3" lifts won't include lower control arms which will stop droop, some will do just add a leafs which tend I sag over time. Don't go into debt cause everyone wants you to buy the best, those who have TNT and all that great product are those who own shops or make the money to afford that level of quality, in my opinion it's not the name brand you buy it's all about the fun and expierence you encounter with your jeep.

Later before you rock crawl to much don't forget to add armor like sliders, you'll be mad at yourself the first time you come smashing down on a rock :)
 
So in addition to the lift, to correct any drive issues I will need to shim, SYE and TC drop? All 3? When I lift I would like to correct any drive issues so I don't create unnecessary wear and tear.

No.. SYE and possibley shim, it depense on where your yoke is at when your lift is done.
 
Thanks! All of you are awesome!

If anything I've learned so much from this thread and I think I'm to the point I can make a healthy decision based on my needs.

I'm thinking RE super flex with leafs. Track bar, maybe RE, maybe not. New shocks all around. I'll go with shims and the AA YSE. Top it all off with 31 or 32 in hers.

What this setup I think will do is let me have fun on the trails, more flexibility when I go camping, drive well for a DD but also keep options open if I ever want to armor up and crush some rocks (hence the super flex option).

Lastly I want to do all this myself so I can learn more about the components and what is going on under there. It'll be fun.
 
Keep in mind RE isn't American made, their parts are jap made now so the quality isn't what it used to be. I'm not saying dont get it , just more of a heads up
 
What is American made anymore? What does American made mean anymore? For quality, sure some things are better American, but the Japanese have made quality items too. I'd buy American made if it means supporting local businesses.
 
Then buy from a smaller vendor, serious offroad for example. Not only an American, but IIRC, also an ex Marine building parts to make side money to support his off-road habit.
 
Then buy from a smaller vendor, serious offroad for example. Not only an American, but IIRC, also an ex Marine building parts to make side money to support his off-road habit.
And he knows I'm going through him! lol I've been PMing him.

I'm all for supporting the local businesses, nothing against big businesses but a small purchase will make more of an impact for a small business than a large business.
 
Wouldn't rule out iron rock Offroad either, I'm not a 100% sure of it but i believe its American made also...

I'm all for serious offroad, but I got my components before I knew about SOR
 
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