Chad29860
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Augusta, South Carolina
I also busted a 242 output on my 89. I had alittle too much skinny pedal and didnt get to the brakes fast enough when the rear bounced up. :doh:
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
242 Hd Sye?
- Thread starter Gojeep
- Start date
Angus
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City suburb
Unfortunately I have not found a 241 for comparison purposes. Several guys on shift have Dodge Rams and of course they all use 231's. I did talk to John at JB Conversions about my idea's. He does not do anything with 242's so he did not know about the rear bearing ohusing possible similarity. He was willing to sell a 241 rear housing that has the large bearing and a Jeep speedo. He also indicated that the different types of speedo sensors can be used for Jeep computers. I wil have to use a signal converter, like Superlifts, to get the speedo acurate. Next I checked with a local Machine gear shop about cutting resplining and putting threads on the end of my 242HD shaft. He can do it for under $200, but heat treating may be an issue. Anyway I am making headway and possibly a way to get this done very heavy duty for under $600.
Angus
Angus
Skeetdog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sugar Land, TX
I have the said Tom Woods SYE and had no problems with it until now. Unfortunately it has started to leak and I need to fix it. I purchased it in 2/05 and received it on 5/05, yes it was backordered. Fast forward to today and I just called and let them know that it is leaking badly 3 years later and the tech I spoke with is sending me parts no questions asked to fix my problem. No charge also, it may cost more but how i am amazed that they are willing to solve my problem after 3 years of use. They are not just sending me seals either.
tkjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- anywhere thats free
Lets keep this thread alive guys. I'm still looking into swapping my 242 into my dd and this thread is very interesting to me. Good to see all the work from 
ers working to get something done.
ers working to get something done.Border Dave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellingham, WA
I've been following this thread for a long time. I bought a used 242 with what I believe is the Currie hack and tap on the output and want to put it in my TJ. I want to beef it up before I install it and am hoping to learn how from you guys.
Border Dave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellingham, WA
Anyone have any new info on strengthening the NP242?
I'm dragging this thread back to life with some new info based on my experience in trying to put together a HD SYE for the 242. Here is my quick write-up. Sorry but no pictures yet.
The main shaft for this conversion can be taken from any of the following transfer cases:
o 242D, 98-03 Dodge Durango, Ram
o 242HD, 02-03 V8 equipped Grand Cherokee
o 244D, 01-03 Durango, Ram (the 244D is the electronic shift version of the 242D).
o 242AMG, Hummer, H1
The H1 is the only heavy duty version of the 242 with a provision on the rear bearing housing for a speedometer output. If your vehicle takes the speedometer output from another source (ie the ABS sensors), this is not an issue. To add a speedometer output to a 32-spline output shaft use the rear bearing housing from a Hummer 242. Otherwise use the rear bearing housing from the case you got the shaft from.
For a double cardan (CV) rear output an aftermarket yoke or flange needs to be sourced. Tom Woods (www.4xshaft.com) sells a flat output flange that with work with the 32-spline slip shaft. (~$120). You then use a flange to D-C adapter like you would if you’re using the Rubicon Express or Currie hack-and-tap type set up. If you want to use a traditional D-C yoke (like you’d find on a front drive shaft) Driveshaft Superstore (www.driveshaftsuperstore.com) sells a custom high angle slip 32-spline D-C yoke for a 1310 u-joint ($150). If you want to run 1350 ujoints on your rear shaft there options too (yoke: 3503-32CV, flange: N3-23-9163X).
DO NOT try to force a 32-spline fixed yoke on to the main shaft! Fixed yokes and slip yokes have differently cut splines despite both being 32-spline.
Modifications to the output shaft are typical “hack and tap” procedures and have been covered in other write ups.
Sealing the rear output can be accomplished a couple ways. You can shorten/modify the factory tail-cone (cut and weld) or use an aftermarket seal retainer (JB conversions offers one for the 241 that will work, but you might have to swap the seal and rear bearing). I machined my own using the factory one a a model, but just 1.5" long.
The main shaft for this conversion can be taken from any of the following transfer cases:
o 242D, 98-03 Dodge Durango, Ram
o 242HD, 02-03 V8 equipped Grand Cherokee
o 244D, 01-03 Durango, Ram (the 244D is the electronic shift version of the 242D).
o 242AMG, Hummer, H1
The H1 is the only heavy duty version of the 242 with a provision on the rear bearing housing for a speedometer output. If your vehicle takes the speedometer output from another source (ie the ABS sensors), this is not an issue. To add a speedometer output to a 32-spline output shaft use the rear bearing housing from a Hummer 242. Otherwise use the rear bearing housing from the case you got the shaft from.
For a double cardan (CV) rear output an aftermarket yoke or flange needs to be sourced. Tom Woods (www.4xshaft.com) sells a flat output flange that with work with the 32-spline slip shaft. (~$120). You then use a flange to D-C adapter like you would if you’re using the Rubicon Express or Currie hack-and-tap type set up. If you want to use a traditional D-C yoke (like you’d find on a front drive shaft) Driveshaft Superstore (www.driveshaftsuperstore.com) sells a custom high angle slip 32-spline D-C yoke for a 1310 u-joint ($150). If you want to run 1350 ujoints on your rear shaft there options too (yoke: 3503-32CV, flange: N3-23-9163X).
DO NOT try to force a 32-spline fixed yoke on to the main shaft! Fixed yokes and slip yokes have differently cut splines despite both being 32-spline.
Modifications to the output shaft are typical “hack and tap” procedures and have been covered in other write ups.
Sealing the rear output can be accomplished a couple ways. You can shorten/modify the factory tail-cone (cut and weld) or use an aftermarket seal retainer (JB conversions offers one for the 241 that will work, but you might have to swap the seal and rear bearing). I machined my own using the factory one a a model, but just 1.5" long.
A couple more notes:
A 241 rear bearing housing will not work. While the bolt holes line up, the part of the housing that covers the shift rail is different (the shift rail onthe 242 sticks out farther).
Since the HD 242's use a 1.25" wide chain, the main shaft is 1/4" longer. Don't worry, the H1 rear bearing housing takes care of the length increase. If you want to use your original internals (chain, sprockets and differential) you'll need to put a 1/4" spacer on the shaft behind the differential. Or you can use the rear diff output gear from the donor case and cut another snap ring groove in it for the 1" sprocket. Alternatively you can swap all the internals from a donor case and get the wider chain too.
If starting from scratch, it might be easier to find a complete dodge 242D and add a speedo output or find a H1 242AMG and add 2wd. I ended up finding a 242AMG that needed some work, and used my 242J guts to put it back together with 2wd. I was still happy to go through the exersize of putting the heavier duty shaft in the 242J case as a learning experience.
If anyone wants to try this conversion themselves I have a 242D shaft a 242AMG bearing housing + tail cone I'd be happy to sell for $100 shipped (which less than half of what I payed).
I'd be happy to answer any questions since I know the above sound a bit tricky and i didn't post any pictures.
A 241 rear bearing housing will not work. While the bolt holes line up, the part of the housing that covers the shift rail is different (the shift rail onthe 242 sticks out farther).
Since the HD 242's use a 1.25" wide chain, the main shaft is 1/4" longer. Don't worry, the H1 rear bearing housing takes care of the length increase. If you want to use your original internals (chain, sprockets and differential) you'll need to put a 1/4" spacer on the shaft behind the differential. Or you can use the rear diff output gear from the donor case and cut another snap ring groove in it for the 1" sprocket. Alternatively you can swap all the internals from a donor case and get the wider chain too.
If starting from scratch, it might be easier to find a complete dodge 242D and add a speedo output or find a H1 242AMG and add 2wd. I ended up finding a 242AMG that needed some work, and used my 242J guts to put it back together with 2wd. I was still happy to go through the exersize of putting the heavier duty shaft in the 242J case as a learning experience.
If anyone wants to try this conversion themselves I have a 242D shaft a 242AMG bearing housing + tail cone I'd be happy to sell for $100 shipped (which less than half of what I payed).
I'd be happy to answer any questions since I know the above sound a bit tricky and i didn't post any pictures.
Last edited:
ricot83
NAXJA Member #1297
- Location
- newington, CT
Does a WJ 242HD bolt right up to an XJ and also what ouput shaft does it have? can u use the flange from an RE HAck N tap on it>?
xjcrazed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Draper, UT
A WJ 242HD will NOT be bolt-on.
From my research you'll have to change the input gear because the WJ uses a long input gear and your XJ will most likely have a short input gear.
Your XJ may also have a different input gear pattern and you wouldn't therefore be able to just swap the input gear from your current transfer case into the 242HD. You would have to source your input gear seperately.
There's also a possibility (someone more knowledgeable will have to confirm) that this won't work at all for older XJs with a 21 spline tranny output shaft. I don't know if you can get a 21 spline transfer case input shaft that will work.
There is one option that is VERY close to the holy grail that everyone is looking for. The WJ 242 is only marked the HD version in certain model years behind the 4.7, usually purported to be '02-'03. If you take the 242 from a '00-'01 WJ with a 4.7 it has the upgraded internals (bigger chain, gears, etc) but still has a 27 spline output. This case TW can put an SYE on. See example here
If you're serious about looking into this there's good info from V8 ZJ owners looking to replace their 249 t-cases. Search the NAGCA forums or the Grand Cherokee forum on JeepsUnlimited.
Rob
From my research you'll have to change the input gear because the WJ uses a long input gear and your XJ will most likely have a short input gear.
Your XJ may also have a different input gear pattern and you wouldn't therefore be able to just swap the input gear from your current transfer case into the 242HD. You would have to source your input gear seperately.
There's also a possibility (someone more knowledgeable will have to confirm) that this won't work at all for older XJs with a 21 spline tranny output shaft. I don't know if you can get a 21 spline transfer case input shaft that will work.
There is one option that is VERY close to the holy grail that everyone is looking for. The WJ 242 is only marked the HD version in certain model years behind the 4.7, usually purported to be '02-'03. If you take the 242 from a '00-'01 WJ with a 4.7 it has the upgraded internals (bigger chain, gears, etc) but still has a 27 spline output. This case TW can put an SYE on. See example here
If you're serious about looking into this there's good info from V8 ZJ owners looking to replace their 249 t-cases. Search the NAGCA forums or the Grand Cherokee forum on JeepsUnlimited.
Rob
Canyonman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northridge,CA
Disclaimer
I'm only imputting for those who are in the med range of off roading (6"-33"s) and on a buget.
When choosing my new dream XJ I searched for the 242.Fulltime is great for rain and snow.
My 87(242) has had 6" lift for 14 years/320,000 miles.I replaced the tailcone seal one time.No SYE and only added a longer slip yoke from MJ.
Sye setup is smoother than stock, it's true.
My New(Stock) 2000 had vibes at 50mph and over and after switching 87's lift and axles across to the 2000, it got real bad.
I urge anyone with vibes to check the output shafts of the t-case for runnout.Take shafts off and run in gear.I found the bent tailshaft when cutting it off. Finished H-n-t but still had vibes.
Kid must have slammed it cause it had No undercarriage damage from offroading.
I've been a toolmaker for 24 :bs:years and design and build manufacturing tooling for commercial jetliners.I spent 5 years OD grinding turban shafts and fitting impellers on splines for train locomotive turbo's(18,000rpm).
I just did the H-n-T on the new tailshaft "the best way" at work on a lathe.(perfect)Doing it under the jeep was a bitch and with the tailshaft runnout, I had to stop the engine and just cut it off.
If it runs true you'll get it done. 1.250 of spline should remain.
See my tool I made for drilling and taping when under the jeep.
Will loan if you'll give it back.RE tells of making guide in kit, out of slip yoke,(it will be Needed).
No offense to TW's but the cutting down of the shaft and resplining is a bunch of crap.That is just to make you happy with your favorite yoke style and ruin's the tailshaft.:gag:The shaft is factory case hardend and will twist or bent easy after removing the O.D. even if they hit it with a torch to heat treat it.(Its not the same).They have vastly more experince with that than I do.:dunce: Yes,They do.They are offering something that otherwise would not be avalible,so it is- what it is.
The factory splines are very consistent.My RE flange slid on the tailshaft after cleaning with a light press fit(no slop at all).The RE part is cnc machined and is of high quality stainless steel.This is not a bandade.
If you install it right it should not loosen up.
My 320,000 mile slip yoke is still snug so why would a locked down perfect fit spline fail?
If your slip yoke was worn and vibrating causing you to want a SYE then you have to add up all the reasons for problems.Rebuild your driveshaft with new u-joints and get your axle at the right angle.
As far as the older seal type go's maybe your output bearing is shot or shaft bent to cause leaks.My 87 with 320,000 and 2000 84,000 miles have no (t-case) leaks.Yes they have fliud.
? other than the speedometer sensor being elec. is the Lg tailcone the same and could you just switch to the newer sealed model?
Keep it simple----Let the $13 u-joint break and bring a extra set of drive shafts.
Just my opinion.
To GoJeep,Are you the same guy with the cool jeep website?
Thanks for all the Info and your yoke setup was my first choice but just had hard time finding all the parts for cheap.
WWW.shaftmasters.com $58 spicer 211229X flange $13 spicer 5-153X u-joints (X3)$90 RE,$20 junk yard XJ auto front DS,6 degree shims( I made of 7075 AL)
Smooooth.
I'm only imputting for those who are in the med range of off roading (6"-33"s) and on a buget.When choosing my new dream XJ I searched for the 242.Fulltime is great for rain and snow.
My 87(242) has had 6" lift for 14 years/320,000 miles.I replaced the tailcone seal one time.No SYE and only added a longer slip yoke from MJ.
Sye setup is smoother than stock, it's true.
My New(Stock) 2000 had vibes at 50mph and over and after switching 87's lift and axles across to the 2000, it got real bad.
I urge anyone with vibes to check the output shafts of the t-case for runnout.Take shafts off and run in gear.I found the bent tailshaft when cutting it off. Finished H-n-t but still had vibes.
Kid must have slammed it cause it had No undercarriage damage from offroading.
I've been a toolmaker for 24 :bs:years and design and build manufacturing tooling for commercial jetliners.I spent 5 years OD grinding turban shafts and fitting impellers on splines for train locomotive turbo's(18,000rpm).
I just did the H-n-T on the new tailshaft "the best way" at work on a lathe.(perfect)Doing it under the jeep was a bitch and with the tailshaft runnout, I had to stop the engine and just cut it off.
If it runs true you'll get it done. 1.250 of spline should remain.
See my tool I made for drilling and taping when under the jeep.
Will loan if you'll give it back.RE tells of making guide in kit, out of slip yoke,(it will be Needed).
No offense to TW's but the cutting down of the shaft and resplining is a bunch of crap.That is just to make you happy with your favorite yoke style and ruin's the tailshaft.:gag:The shaft is factory case hardend and will twist or bent easy after removing the O.D. even if they hit it with a torch to heat treat it.(Its not the same).They have vastly more experince with that than I do.:dunce: Yes,They do.They are offering something that otherwise would not be avalible,so it is- what it is.
The factory splines are very consistent.My RE flange slid on the tailshaft after cleaning with a light press fit(no slop at all).The RE part is cnc machined and is of high quality stainless steel.This is not a bandade.
If you install it right it should not loosen up.
My 320,000 mile slip yoke is still snug so why would a locked down perfect fit spline fail?
If your slip yoke was worn and vibrating causing you to want a SYE then you have to add up all the reasons for problems.Rebuild your driveshaft with new u-joints and get your axle at the right angle.
As far as the older seal type go's maybe your output bearing is shot or shaft bent to cause leaks.My 87 with 320,000 and 2000 84,000 miles have no (t-case) leaks.Yes they have fliud.
? other than the speedometer sensor being elec. is the Lg tailcone the same and could you just switch to the newer sealed model?
Keep it simple----Let the $13 u-joint break and bring a extra set of drive shafts.
Just my opinion.
To GoJeep,Are you the same guy with the cool jeep website?
Thanks for all the Info and your yoke setup was my first choice but just had hard time finding all the parts for cheap.
WWW.shaftmasters.com $58 spicer 211229X flange $13 spicer 5-153X u-joints (X3)$90 RE,$20 junk yard XJ auto front DS,6 degree shims( I made of 7075 AL)
Smooooth.
To GoJeep,Are you the same guy with the cool jeep website?
Thanks for all the Info and your yoke setup was my first choice but just had hard time finding all the parts for cheap.
http://www.shaftmasters.com
Yes mate that is me and thanks for the kind words.
I like the tools you made to do this. Very well done.
Border Dave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellingham, WA
FINALLY! After all these years it's coming!!!
Blktjsport
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Pedro ca
Too bad they want almost $800 for it lol anyone made one with a 242hd case ie WJ or Durango but I need the speedo gear
Border Dave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellingham, WA
Where are you seeing it for $800? I don't see it on their website yet.
iluv83vettes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Houston
Actually it's $760 shipped. I ordered one Thursday. If you want one you might have to wait a bit because he said I got the last one on the shelf. There is also no core charge on it.
CartsXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Glenville, NY
If anybody is looking for a late model 242J stock main shaft and tail housing for a core, give me a PM. Have them sitting in my basement, taking up space.
Root Moose
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ON, Canada
For $800 you can buy a lot of H&Ts and junkyard 242 cases.
IMO this is a part that is not necessary. H&T works fine. It would be different if the rear shaft was short or something or if the 242 is being thrown into a SWB TJ/YJ.
2¢
IMO this is a part that is not necessary. H&T works fine. It would be different if the rear shaft was short or something or if the 242 is being thrown into a SWB TJ/YJ.
2¢