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No blower, radio, wipers, etc.

M

mlanicca

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Texas
I have a '90 XJ. I was sitting in a turn lane today, and lost my turn signals, a/c, blower, radio, wipers, and clock illumination.

I checked the fuses for all of these, and they all look fine.

The headlights, hazards, gauges, and dome lights still work.

Also, the clock illumination works when the headlights are on.
 
check the fuses in the relay box under hood, they look like regular fuses, only on steroids(see also big fuses).Then start looking for loose grounds, crusty wires and cables. Hope this helps. Jim
 
Those are all things that power up when you turn the ignition switch on.
Best guess would be the ignition switch or the wire to the wiper circuit breaker and the other fuses. Maybe the splice. If the fusible link for ignition switch was blown you'd likely have more problems.
 
Thanks guys.

It started raining so I searched through my FSM and found out that all these fuses get power from the brown wire from the ignition switch, so I'm gonna try replacing that first.
 
The blower pulls so much juice all by itself, that the ignition switch and wire/connector overheat and burn out eventually. I have the blower power bypassed on a seperate circuit on all jeeps now, bypasses the ignition switch.

They use a 25 amp fuse that is too small, and people replace it with 30 amp fuses, and then the brown wire and the Ignition switch go next. My last ignition switch died in just 12 months before I bypassed it for the blower power.
 
Ecomike said:
The blower pulls so much juice all by itself, that the ignition switch and wire/connector overheat and burn out eventually. I have the blower power bypassed on a seperate circuit on all jeeps now, bypasses the ignition switch
Click to expand...


I'm haven't done much electical work. Can I put the blower power on a seperate circuit using a relay like this.

-Tapping into the Red wire for power to the relay, and cutting the Brown wire and using the half coming out of the ignition switch to trigger the relay.


Relay.jpg
 
Is the brown wire normally the hot lead from the fuse box into the ignition switch, or the hot wire leaving the ignition switch and going to the blower?

If brown is the power leg leaving the ignition switch than yes that layout will work. Otherwise no. I am asking as I don't have the wiring diagram handy for that year.
 
The brown wire goes from the ignition switch to the fuse box for the blower, rear wiper, turn/back up lamps, radio, turn signal, rear defogger, low washer fluid, cigar lighter, and radio/clock illumination fuses. A VT/YL wire goes from the blower fuse to the A/C-heat mode select switch. Then a LB wire goes to the blower switch, then several wires to the blower resistor, and and OR/BL wire to the blower motor.
 
mlanicca said:
The brown wire goes from the ignition switch to the fuse box for the blower, rear wiper, turn/back up lamps, radio, turn signal, rear defogger, low washer fluid, cigar lighter, and radio/clock illumination fuses. A VT/YL wire goes from the blower fuse to the A/C-heat mode select switch. Then a LB wire goes to the blower switch, then several wires to the blower resistor, and and OR/BL wire to the blower motor.
Click to expand...

I think the brown wire is actually the hot battery source wire runnning from the fuse box to the ignition switch (but I could be wrong), in which case your lay out would not work.

Check the brown wire at the fuse box with a meter to see if it is hot when the ignition switch is turned off. If it is hot then I am right, if not then you are right and your layout will work.

If I am right, repost here I will suggest a fix to your wiring layout.
 
I was looking at the electrical diagrams in my FSM, and Haynes manual. The ignition switch has red, dark green, orange, brown, and yellow wires. From looking at both of them, from what I can tell:

Dark Green-Goes to starter relay

Red- Goes through a splice to post on starter relay where the wire from the battery connects. All of the fuses that are hot at all times have red wires that go through splices and end up at the starter relay where the battery wire connects.

Orange- Goes to fuse panel. Fuses hot in the run only.

Yellow- Goes to fuse panel. Fuses hot in start and run.

Brown- Goes to fuse panel. Fuses hot in accessory and run.
 
Based on that I would say your plan, layout should work just fine. It will eliminate the overload problem on the ignition switch that seems to burn them up regularly.

I would suggest running 30 amp fused, dedicated new 10 Ga red wire from the starter relay or battery post directly to that new relay.
 
Ecomike said:
Based on that I would say your plan, layout should work just fine. It will eliminate the overload problem on the ignition switch that seems to burn them up regularly.

I would suggest running 30 amp fused, dedicated new 10 Ga red wire from the starter relay or battery post directly to that new relay.
Click to expand...
+

and keep the fuse as close as possible to the battery, remember- it's a live wire until the fuse and and chafing will cause a short to ground with lots of heat and fire to follow

--Shorty
 
Thanks everybody. It worked, and I did run a 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp fuse. The worst part was I had to pull the ignition switch out again to add the wire between there and the relay.
 
Cool!:cool: Now we can let you answer starter switch newbie questions. :laugh3:

What part of Texas you in?

We have a Texas area NAXJA chapter forming up right now in the chapters forum.
 
Reviving an old thread...

The other day, I noticed the smell of something burning inside my Jeep. I checked the fuse panel and low and behold, the 25 amp blower fuse had started to melt. After a little research, I came across this thread. I checked the wiring coming out of the ignition switch and all is well, no melted wires yet. I replaced the fuse and all the accessories powered by the brown wire comig out of the switch work. In order to prevent this from happening again, and in order to prevent a fire under the dash, I was going to try this modification with the relay in between the brown wire and the fuse box. My question is, is a 30 amp relay and breaker large enough for all those circuits? Or should I step up to a larger one?
 
I used a 30 amp fuse, but found the fuse-fuseholder could not handle the heat long term, like 2 years. I switched to a metal cased resetable 30 amp breaker with the copper threaded studs a few months back. The 30 amp fuse never blew, just overheated and melted the plastic case and elastomer holder it was in!!!!
 
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