• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

power stering flush

I do them at work with a BG machine. The machine first exchanges the old fluid for a cleaning solution which is kept in the system, engine running, for at least 10 minutes. Then that solution is exchanged for a universal type BG ps fluid. Works pretty well- typing this made me realize I need to do the MJ.
 
It's easy.

1) Get 2 quarts Mopar Power Steering Fluid

2) Pull off steering return line (bendable clamp line at bottom of reservoir.

3) Drain PS tank (will happen when you pull the line off but plug somehow after draining).

4) put return line in bottle, fill reservoir with fresh fluid,. start engine and turn steering wheel back and forth for 5 seconds. If PS pump makes any loud/strange noises, shut down and refill.

5) shut engine down. drain plastic bottle and refill PS reservoir, repeat step 4

6) Repeat step 5 until 1 quart of fluid has been used, refill, drain once more, and plug the retun line back in and then unplug and refill the PS tank. Should take you like 1.5 qts. almost 2, total, and you are done. remember to check fluid level when hot and add as necessary.
 
Matthew Currie said:
That's the only way I've found to do it. When I replaced my PS pump with an old one that had crud in it, it took about 3 suck-fill cycles to clear it up and make it stop buzzing.

When you say buzzing, do you mean the groaning sound a bad pump makes?

My 98 has a pretty new replacement pump that is pretty loud, sounds like it is going out. I've done one suck-fill cycle (using a quart of fluid) and the groaning didn't go away.

How many quarts did you use for all 3 cycles? Thanks.
 
Pioneer89XJ said:
When you say buzzing, do you mean the groaning sound a bad pump makes?

My 98 has a pretty new replacement pump that is pretty loud, sounds like it is going out. I've done one suck-fill cycle (using a quart of fluid) and the groaning didn't go away.

How many quarts did you use for all 3 cycles? Thanks.

I don't recall just how much fluid it took, but I think it was about two quarts. My noise was not the groaning of a bad pump, but the higher-pitched buzzing you get from a bad relief valve. I was installing a used pump that had been sitting in my barn for several years, and whatever was in the residue of old fluid didn't agree with it. It took a pretty thorough replacement of fluid before it quieted down.
 
Matthew Currie said:
I don't recall just how much fluid it took, but I think it was about two quarts. My noise was not the groaning of a bad pump, but the higher-pitched buzzing you get from a bad relief valve. I was installing a used pump that had been sitting in my barn for several years, and whatever was in the residue of old fluid didn't agree with it. It took a pretty thorough replacement of fluid before it quieted down.

Thanks Matt. That clears things up.
 
I wouldn't just suck it out. Not only is that probably more of a pain than the correct way, it is less effective. Disconnect the return hose from the back of the pump. This may be difficult-worse case buy a new return hose for $8 and cut the old one off if you can't get it off. But try to twist it off first. Run the hose into a container, preferably clear. Disconnect the coil wire or do whatever so engine won't start. turn over engine till all fluid has run out. Fill to the brim with new fluid. turn over more till all has run out. Reconnect hose and fill to proper level and you are done. Oh, also, turn wheel almost lock to lock while you do the cranking. This will run all dirty fluid out of every crevice of the gear and pump.
 
I'm not sure if im bringing back the dead here but my pressure hose and return line are shot. I bought new replacement hoses and all I need to do is drain the fluid so it doesn't get everywhere. I'm not concerned about getting all the fluid out. I take it I just unhook the return line and drain it into a bucket or something and then disconnect the hoses? Put the new ones in and fill the resevoir with fluid till it reaches the Cold marker assuming I haven't driven it right before?
 
Jackhill442 said:
I wouldn't just suck it out. Not only is that probably more of a pain than the correct way, it is less effective. Disconnect the return hose from the back of the pump. This may be difficult-worse case buy a new return hose for $8 and cut the old one off if you can't get it off. But try to twist it off first. Run the hose into a container, preferably clear. Disconnect the coil wire or do whatever so engine won't start. turn over engine till all fluid has run out. Fill to the brim with new fluid. turn over more till all has run out. Reconnect hose and fill to proper level and you are done. Oh, also, turn wheel almost lock to lock while you do the cranking. This will run all dirty fluid out of every crevice of the gear and pump.

Do you have to do this with the engine not running? will the fluid pump out too quickly if you disconnect the return with the engine running?

what the "best" type of power steering fluid to use?
 
Try this. Take the reservoir off and clean with a parts washer or brake cleaner. Blow the stuff in the box out with an air gun thru the pressure line. Put on some new hose with a Wix 58964 inline filter on the return line. Fill with Valvoline SynPower DOT4. I've done that on my Jeep and a Caddy (rack and pinion).

--Matt
 
Don't put anything other than power steering fluid. They are sensitive. Yes, if you do it with the engine running, it will go every where. I learned that the hard way. A good fluid can be found at any store, just get a brand name like valvoline or Pyroil. You don't have to spend a whole day, just get mostly new fluid in there.
 
Back
Top