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Quick question: torque wrench?

C

Chick-N-Picker

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NC
I'm pretty much right at the pint of taking off the manifolds. Just finishing up trying to get one stuck bolt out of the power steering pump. The manifolds are really loose. I also have to separate the manifold at the flange.

Anyway when I do put it back together. I know your supposed to use a torque wrench but on all the bolts except a couple I had to use. Regular 9/16 wrench not a ratchet and socket. And that's with everything off.

So how would I get a torque wrench in there let alone check them in 50 miles after everything's back together?
 
I always tighten the manifold bolts by feel and have not had a problem. It's usually really tight to get any sort of socket in there.
 
I cut away small sections of heat shield and used extensions where needed.
 
I usually put a wrench on my 3/8 torque wrench set the torque and tighten the wrench until it clicks.. that way I have a pretty close idea on how tight to actually push on the wrench. Justy .02
 
Ok. Got it. I'll most likely hand tighten them. I honestly can't see how anyone can get a torch wrench on there.

But was wondering. Shouldn't I be able to pull off the intake manifold and leave the exhaust manifold on there? They're moving/wiggling together?

Also does the power steering pump come off with intake manifold.
 
Remember that any type of angle change or dogbone that's not 90 degrees from the axis of your torque wrench will change the final torque at the fastener.

I usually just tighten them with wrenches and ratchets, but I've torqued a lot of things in the last 20 years so I have a good idea of the difference between 20 in lbs and 20 ft lbs.
 
PS pump bracket has 3 bolts into the manifold & one down on the block. The exhaust manifold will stay pretty close in place. I usually put the power steering pump where the air box is to get it out of the way. Never saw much use in torquing these bolts, just make sure they are good and tight. As with anything long, start in the middle and work your way out to the ends. You might be able to use torque extenders or something like that, but it's not really warranted here. Having a bunch of extensions, 9/16" socket, & universal is how I've done it. If you wanted to recheck, take out the air box to get at the lower ones. It does get easier the more you do it. The ones with mini-cats have a bunch less room to work on but the same method can be used.
 
md21722 said:
PS pump bracket has 3 bolts into the manifold & one down on the block. The exhaust manifold will stay pretty close in place. I usually put the power steering pump where the air box is to get it out of the way. Never saw much use in torquing these bolts, just make sure they are good and tight. As with anything long, start in the middle and work your way out to the ends. You might be able to use torque extenders or something like that, but it's not really warranted here. Having a bunch of extensions, 9/16" socket, & universal is how I've done it. If you wanted to recheck, take out the air box to get at the lower ones. It does get easier the more you do it. The ones with mini-cats have a bunch less room to work on but the same method can be used.
Click to expand...

Thank you, buddy. I was kind of starting to figure out that th PS had be removed right as dark was falling. Hopefully I can get this finished tomorrow.

Just to double check. The pulley don't need to come off. Just unbolt and move out of the way? I hate not finishing something, because all night I start over thinking things. Then I'm outside with a flashlight haha
 
The pulley does not need to come off. There are holes in the factory pulley (at least most years). Just turn the pulley until you can put a socket through one of the holes to get to the bolts. Repeat until all 3 bolts are out. This is where an air ratchet really speeds things up.
 
md21722 said:
The pulley does not need to come off. There are holes in the factory pulley (at least most years). Just turn the pulley until you can put a socket through one of the holes to get to the bolts. Repeat until all 3 bolts are out. This is where an air ratchet really speeds things up.
Click to expand...

On thank you again. NO holes in the 89 pulley on mine but I've contorted my fingers like a squid and still got the 3 behind the pulley out. The only one I can't get out is the very bottom one and that son of ... Is not budging with a ratchet.
 
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i think folks are talking about two systems of mounting the ps pump. 96 and newer has three bolts in the intake. lower does not need to be removed(block). older 95- remove the two behind the pump that thread into the bracket, then remove the front lower bolt to take the pump + bracket off. then remove the big cast alum bracket. old style pulley has no holes. new style does. i converted my 94 to a 99 intake and 96+ ps setup to remove the excuse of a tensioner jeep gave us.
 
Also if your wrench is 1 foot long from center of bolt head to the centerline of where you place your hand you can guesstimate 24 lbs of pressure on the end of your wrench to get yourself in the ball park of the torque spec. 1ft x 24lbs= 24lb ft. Alternatively if your wrench measures less than a foot, then convert your wrench length to decimal feet and divide the torque spec by the decimal foot length of your wrench and that's about how much force you'll need on the end of your wrench.

Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk
 
Chick-N-Picker said:
So how would I get a torque wrench in there let alone check them in 50 miles after everything's back together?
Click to expand...

I remove the airbox, pull the P/S pump out of the way and use a rachet with an 12" extension. I torque it until it won't move anymore...I'm only about 75-80 ft. lbs. strong before using a cheater...then I drive it a few times, let it cool, run it, cool it.
Then in the morning on a nice cool day I tighten it again...til it won't move. Torquing things in tight spot is usually done when the engine/tranny etc. are OUT of the truck.
 
You have to be really careful of those end studs in your manifold. Sometimes they will snap off when you go to torque them back down. Sometimes no matter how careful you are they will snap off trying to remove them. Sometimes they just pop on there own without you ever touching them.

If you are really lucky the whole stud will come out, which is good, you can throw them away and buy another quality stud to put in there or the proper length SAE 8 bolt. If I reuse the original stud, I lower the torque.

I really soak those studs with a quality rust dissolve and lube a day before I want to remove the nuts. Wire brush the threads showing and repeat with the penetrating oil.

If you have a buddy, having one guy underneath with a flash light and and one on top with a good selection of extensions makes the job a whole lot easier, the guy on the bottom finds and hold the socket and extension the bolt the guy on top tightens.

I took the heat shields off of my manifold (87 XJ) about 25 years ago when I replaced the O rings on my injectors, the heat shield being gone has never caused me any issues I know of, makes removing and reinstalling the manifold a whole lot easier.
 
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8Mud said:
You have to be really careful of those end studs in your manifold. Sometimes they will snap off when you go to torque them back down. Sometimes no matter how careful you are they will snap off trying to remove them. Sometimes they just pop on there own without you ever touching them.

If you are really lucky the whole stud will come out, which is good, you can throw them away and buy another quality stud to put in there or the proper length SAE 8 bolt. If I reuse the original stud, I lower the torque.

I really soak those studs with a quality rust dissolve and lube a day before I want to remove the nuts. Wire brush the threads showing and repeat with the penetrating oil.

If you have a buddy, having one guy underneath with a flash light and and one on top with a good selection of extensions makes the job a whole lot easier, the guy on the bottom finds and hold the socket and extension the bolt the guy on top tightens.

I took the heat shields off of my manifold (87 XJ) about 25 years ago when I replaced the O rings on my injectors, the heat shield being gone has never caused me any issues I know of, makes removing and reinstalling the manifold a whole lot easier.
Click to expand...

I can't sleep. Thinking about how I don't want to f nothing up.
I was thinking of leaving off the heat should too.

Two of my studs came out but the one on the very back, only the nut and washer came off. The manifold is still hanging on the stud.

I've read to always replace the studs while I've also read of people reusing them.
Should I take off the manifolds and use a pair of vice grips to remove the back stud so I can buy three new ones? I'm bit worried the back will snap off if I try vice grips to remove and I'm also a bit worried it will snap off if try to reuse it.

Danged if I do, Danged if I don't.

If I snap that stud. I don't know what the heck I'll do to get it out.
 
I would leave the stud alone since you got the nut off. I coat the bolts and studs with hi-temp Nickel anti-seize on re-assembly. Anything other than Nickel won't take the heat. Copper discolors, etc. You will need to pry the manifold off, or loosen up the manifold bolts down below. As the other poster said, everything I was referring to was for 97 on up. It sounds like some is the same though.
 
md21722 said:
I would leave the stud alone since you got the nut off. I coat the bolts and studs with hi-temp Nickel anti-seize on re-assembly. Anything other than Nickel won't take the heat. Copper discolors, etc. You will need to pry the manifold off, or loosen up the manifold bolts down below. As the other poster said, everything I was referring to was for 97 on up. It sounds like some is the same though.
Click to expand...

Okay. I will leave them be. I will just be as careful as possible when reinstalling. I'm so nervous about getting this done. It's my only vehicle and if I get set back, well I'm screwed.

Something I'm worried about tomorrow is where the EX manifold meets the down pipe. I've got a feeling that's going to give me trouble.

I've read it was bolts. I've also read it studs that can only be heated and punched out. My heart sank when I read that.
 
My 97 has bolts to a donut seal with bolts you can work with, my 01 has a flanged gasket with bolts that break. If they break you just need to have a big air hammer/rivet gun remove them. Then you can replace with normal bolts. Try a nut splitter first, or trying to cut the nuts off without damaging the splined bolts.
 
Chick-N-Picker said:
Okay. I will leave them be. I will just be as careful as possible when reinstalling. I'm so nervous about getting this done. It's my only vehicle and if I get set back, well I'm screwed.

Something I'm worried about tomorrow is where the EX manifold meets the down pipe. I've got a feeling that's going to give me trouble.

I've read it was bolts. I've also read it studs that can only be heated and punched out. My heart sank when I read that.
Click to expand...

If you do snap off an end stud don't go nuts. Sometimes they just break and fall out on their own. My 96, bought used, came to me with no end studs (front or rear). I decided to drill and replace when I needed a new exhaust manifold. Drove it for around 6 years with no end studs, never gave me any issues. I snapped an end stud off on my 88, never caused an issue. I eventually got around to replacing it.

I never had any real trouble with the header to cross over pipe bolts, Renix or HO. I soak them with penetrating oil, clean the exposed threads with a small wire brush, re-soak and remove. I did put new nuts/bolts in my Renix.

If you do need to drill a broken bolt out, Cobalt drill bits are the only way go. They last twice as long as regular HSS drill bits. Cobalt bits are a little pricey, but IMO worth it.
 
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