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Help: Ball Joint info- 89 XJ

X

XJBucko

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver BC
Hi:

I finally began replacing the ball joints on my 89 XJ this morning (in addition to some steering parts that I was replacing). when I realized that I didn't have a socket or wrench big enough for the lower ball joint castellated nut. To complicate things, the nut on the new ball joints is a different size and I don't have a socket for that either (the new one is at least 1 mm smaller than the original. So I need some new sockets but I can't figure out the size of the original nut.

Anyone know the size of the lower nut?

I assumed that I could use a pickle fork to separate the knuckle from the ball joints - should I be using something else?

The new lower ball joints have some sort of a tapered, threaded split ring, loosely (i.e. it comes off easily) on the taper section - I assume that's for some application other than my XJ?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Sorry, forgot one more question, the new ball joints - the lowers, I think - have a grove and come with a retaining ring. I assume that I don't need the retaining ring - presumably the ball joint won't press in enough to reveal the groove (it must be for a different application??).
 
The easiest way to separate the ball joints... Make sure the axle tube has solid support under it as close to the knuckle as you can practicaly get. Remove the axle shaft and unit bearing. You will see a small flat surface on the outside just above where the unit bearing was. Take a drilling hammer (2.5# or 3# with a wedge on one side and a flat on the other). Put the wedge on top of this flat and strike the flat side of the drilling hammer with another 5# to 8# hammer until the knuckle falls free. If you don't have a helper to play catch, make sure you pile cardboard under where the knuckle will fall, so you don't damage it. When the knuckle lets go, it will have some force with it.
 
XJBucko said:
Hi:
Anyone know the size of the lower nut?
Click to expand...

Can't remember off the top of my head, but I had the socket already. You could always use a crescent wrench to get the right size and measure the gap after its adjusted.

I assumed that I could use a pickle fork to separate the knuckle from the ball joints - should I be using something else?
Click to expand...

Yes, a pickle fork would work, but I preffer using a set of ball joint splitters. I have a set of these and are worth their weight in gold when doing steering and suspension work. The large one was used to pop the pitnam arm of my old steering box.

41JQidV4yqL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


They are also on the "barrow" program at Autozone. If you are doing tie-rods and such as well... do yourself the favor and get a set.

The new lower ball joints have some sort of a tapered, threaded split ring, loosely (i.e. it comes off easily) on the taper section - I assume that's for some application other than my XJ?
Click to expand...

I used that as a spacer when pressing in the new ball joint.

Sorry, forgot one more question, the new ball joints - the lowers, I think - have a grove and come with a retaining ring. I assume that I don't need the retaining ring - presumably the ball joint won't press in enough to reveal the groove (it must be for a different application??).
Click to expand...

The split rings are not used.

Good luck, it's a hell of a job, and I am glad all four of mine were done this year... hope to NEVER do them again!
 
Corprin said:
You could always use a crescent wrench to get the right size and measure the gap after its adjusted.
Click to expand...

Hi Corprin:

Ya, that's exactly what I did, but I can't figure out if it's a metric size or regular inch size nut. The rust on the nut also makes it difficult to tell definitively. I had hoped the old nut and the new nut would be the same size (they're not) as I could get away with one socket and, I'd be able to size it right by just taking the new nut to the tool store.
 
XJBucko said:
I just did some more searching on this site and I'm confused about that threaded split ring.

I have a 89 XJ LTD and some postings that the 89 D30 knuckle has the threaded insert and others say it doesn't. I guess I"ll find out!

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1023696
Click to expand...

Wish I could be of more assistance on this one, but I just know the socket was in my set, so something below 34mm lol!

I also have a '99 so the threaded spacer is not needed, good reading though.
 
Hi Guys:

For what it's worth, I verified through some searching on the web and through some trial and error with some sockets that I borrowed from a buddy that the lower balljoint castellated nut socket size is 1-5/16 inch.

This is for the original ball joints on an 89 XJ LTD with Dana 30 axle.

As mentioned previously, the replacement lower balljoint nuts are slightly smaller: 1-1/4 inch to be precise.
 
Well, I took the 1-5/16", 3/4" drive socket and big Johnson bar to the lower balljoint castellated nut: left side broke off (as in the nut and part of the stud twisted right off). On the right side the nut and stud were both spinning (with enormous pulls on the Jhonson bar). So i gut out my trusty grinder and a cuting wheel and cut half way through the nut/stud then twisted the rest of both off with the Jhonson bar. Good grief! All this and I haven't even got to pressing out the U joints yet which should be fun!

I've confirmed that my knuckels have the threaded split insert in the lower ball joint hole. Since the lower ball joint presses out the bottom, how the hell do I get that threaded thing out of there? I have a clutch tool from an old Honda motorcycle with the right size nubs on it but I think ithe nubs will break off before the dam insert spins out. Short of cutting off and replacing the knuckle, is there some other trick to getting that insert out? Is there enough space to cut the lower ball joint between the axle ears and the knuckle (without wrecking the knuckle)?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Wait, was that just a really dumb question? The knuckle should separate from the ball joints now that I have the nuts off right?

Still, how do I get that dam insert out, even once I have a free range knuckle?
 
Hey Alaskan:

Thanks for the links. I was using the 1st link as my guide. But neither link provides any information on dealing with the threaded inserts.
 
fasteddieyj said:
I've spent the last hour or so researching the same thing without much luck. I did find this:http://www.otctools.com/products/ba...ctools.com/products/ball_joint_spanner_wrench
It's the spanner wrench for removing/installing the inserts. What I don't understand is how you go about installing the new insert and determining how far to insert it into the knuckle.
Click to expand...

Hey Fast:

I got one of my knuckles off tonight using a pickle fork and a lot of hammering.

In my case, the top of the split ring is absolutely flush with the knuckle surface where the ball joint stud inserts. It's not going to come out. And even if it did, the threads underneath are so corroded, I don't think I could get the new insert in there. Short of re-tapping the knuckle (and there's no way I have a tap that big. Not sure what to do - might have to order new knuckles (good grief!).

I have a bigger problem! The lower ball joint aint coming out! Tired all the usual tricks, heat, ball peen hammers on the yoke, with no luck. I gave up for today when I broke a 3 foot Johnson bar reefing on the press - I landed in my neighbour's garden!

If anyone knows any other tricks - let er rip!
 
Last edited:
fasteddieyj said:
I've spent the last hour or so researching the same thing without much luck. I did find this:http://www.otctools.com/products/ba...ctools.com/products/ball_joint_spanner_wrench
It's the spanner wrench for removing/installing the inserts. What I don't understand is how you go about installing the new insert and determining how far to insert it into the knuckle.
Click to expand...

Found this:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ball-joint-preload-hard-turn-1231029/

But I think the article is referring to a Dana 44 axle (which, I think, has the ball joint pressed into the knuckle ??)
 
Last edited:
XJBucko, good links. After thinking about it and some more searching last night I came to pretty much that conclusion. So I guess now I have two things to do today: Find or order the correct sanner wrench and find the correct procedure for measuring the preload.
 
So after searching and calling for about an hour last night, one phone call to the local Carquest and the spanner will be there at lunch time. One of these days I'll get it through my thick skull to just call there first. I like dealing with them better than even Napa, but the hours aren't the greatest.
 
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