Beating the locker topic to death: Locked front, TrueTrac rear?

I've searched around but haven't been able to locate anyone talking specifically about this scenario.

I've got a 2001 XJ with an NP231, which may eventually become a 242 (still debating whether or not I really need full-time 4WD). Given that I botched the last opportunity to obtain an XJ D44 for the rear, I'm stuck with my 29-spline 8.25" rear-end for now. This greatly limits my options for full-case lockers in the rear-end.

I'm not particularly wanting lunchbox lockers, and have always been keen on the idea of the TrueTrac for the rear-end (seeing how much of this vehicle's life is spent in 2WD). The biggest caveat I've heard over and over is that since it's not a locker, it basically becomes useless once one wheel is off the ground. On the flip side, I've also heard repeatedly that slightly pre-loading it with the brakes (such as the parking brake in the case of the rear) will effectively lock it in full.

So, these thoughts in conjunction with my not wanting to spend $2,000 on full-case lockers for both front and rear in the form of ARBs or OX Lockers, I was thinking about the following:

- Eaton ELocker (27-spline) for the front Dana 30
- Eaton TrueTrac (29-spline) for the 8.25"

Is anyone running a similar setup? I'd like to think this would be a nearly ideal setup for a primarily DD rig.

I'd love to know if anyone else is running this setup as well.

Installing an LSD in the rear will still require removal of the existing carrier and setting the backlash and bearing preload. Installing a Lunchbox Locker in the rear axle can be done without removing the carrier, so no need to set-up the gears again.

FWIW,
i ran a PowerTrax Noslip in my 8.25" for a few years before upgrading to a D44. Never had any problems with it on the street or on the trail. my son has on in his 8.25" for a couple years and it works beautifully as well. They practically invisible on the street and very quiet, unlike the aussie.

The truetrac requires a lot of preload to get a full lock, and this causes a lot of excess stress on the axle shafts, gears, u-joints, t-case, etc. Having it in the rear would help this a bit because you can use the e-brake instead of trying to modulate your pedal, but it's still fact that your vehicle is fighting itself to move forward. On the other hand we installed a Powertrax in my BIL's jeep in just a few hours, it's a very smooth locker and is much easier/cheaper to install than a truetrac.

I've read a lot of bad things about running a locked front. People say that it really "pushes" in the snow and ice--both reasons that i own a Jeep.

My plan is to do the opposite of what you're talking about. Truetrac in the front and a locker in the rear. I have a spartan in my d44 rear right now and it's minimally noticeable. A truetrac in the front would be better than nothing, without the problems of a locker.

That's a non-issue when we're talking about a selectable locker in the front axle.

Frank Z said:

That's a non-issue when we're talking about a selectable locker in the front axle.

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Whoops, yeah, i just noticed he said "elocker".

I've got an ARB in my D30 and No-Slip in the 8.25 right now. Rear locker has been in for over 2 years and probably 35k miles and still works great. No problems on the street and I never hear it either. It's awesome having a selectable front locker, but I wish I went with the E-locker for the simplicity of just a couple wires instead of the compressor and all that jazz. Plus I'm about to pull the whole thing apart to replace the damn o-rings in my ARB. Kinda sucks that an $800 locker relies on two $5 o-rings to work, and if they fail for whatever reason, you have to tear down the entire axle to replace them.

This is the only way I'd do it. Only a selectable in the front so it's completely open when I'm on the street. And the rear it doesn't really matter, but the true-trac sounds like a crappy locker if it doesn't work with a wheel off the ground.

Porch951 said:

I've read a lot of bad things about running a locked front. People say that it really "pushes" in the snow and ice--both reasons that i own a Jeep.

My plan is to do the opposite of what you're talking about. Truetrac in the front and a locker in the rear. I have a spartan in my d44 rear right now and it's minimally noticeable. A truetrac in the front would be better than nothing, without the problems of a locker.

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I have an aussie up front, and i personally like driving with it in the snow, it has never caused me any problems at all. I like the extra traction. The general concensus seems to be that an aussie up front is like a deathtrap, wrong.

Having an aussie in the front in snow is a kind of point and shoot, i feel like the locker pulls the front end in the direction you steer.

Truetracs are a waste of money IMO, no real help offroad, get some aussies and be done with it.

trutracs are the biggest piles of crap out there, they simply dont do anything frt or rear of an xj, and those who have issues with a locker in the frt in the snow are driving like morons, i never had a issue with the lockrite in my 30 in the snow

ROBZ95Xj said:

trutracs are the biggest piles of crap out there, they simply dont do anything frt or rear of an xj, and those who have issues with a locker in the frt in the snow are driving like morons, i never had a issue with the lockrite in my 30 in the snow

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What about ice? I've heard multiple people say that their [insert lunchbox locker] made them do a 180 on the ice. I'd rather have something that does *nothing* than a locker that does *that*.

Besides, the stock D30 carrier is weak and has to be changed for gearing, so the choices are:

carrier ($70) + lunchbox ($300) = weak d30 carrier that may kill you on the ice = $370
truetrac = won't kill you on ice, won't be locked if one wheel is in the air = $375

Not saying the truetrac is the *best* choice here (obviously i'd rather have a selectable), but for people who drive their XJ year round a lunchbox in the front seems like a terrible idea.

oK so I only really plan on driving mine in deeper snow not ice. Does this affect your choice? (I really dont want a selectable in the front) Thanks

You must have a selectable in the front so that you can turn it off.

Visualize the wheel tracks when you do a u-turn. The front outside wheel travels a much longer arc than the front inside wheel. If you have an auto-locker or an LSD or anything that will automatically engage when one wheel turns faster than the other you are going to force the wheels to rotate at the same speed regardless of the arc. IOW you are going to force one of the wheels to break surface contact.

This is less of a problem with the rear wheels since the arcs are smaller and have less difference, and you aren't steering with the rear either. But in the front you are going to lose traction and steering, not what you want

ehall said:

You must have a selectable in the front so that you can turn it off.

Visualize the wheel tracks when you do a u-turn. The front outside wheel travels a much longer arc than the front inside wheel. If you have an auto-locker or an LSD or anything that will automatically engage when one wheel turns faster than the other you are going to force the wheels to rotate at the same speed regardless of the arc. IOW you are going to force one of the wheels to break surface contact

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auto lockers dont engage unless there is power to it. in fact, the locker is typically locked (or not unlocked) when going straight and unlocks when turning. An LSD will "lock" when turning, but you have to turn a very tight circle to "lock" an LSD that is set to normal slip %s. this is why lunchbox lockers go click click click when turning, not screech screech screech

they click-click when you coast through a turn but engage when you power through

a differential sends power to the fastest wheel

Hoooper said:

auto lockers dont engage unless there is power to it. in fact, the locker is typically locked (or not unlocked) when going straight and unlocks when turning. An LSD will "lock" when turning, but you have to turn a very tight circle to "lock" an LSD that is set to normal slip %s. this is why lunchbox lockers go click click click when turning, not screech screech screech

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Applying any power in the turn = locked. If you have it in 4wd in the snow, I'm assuming you are going to need a little power to turn and actually move, so that means your aussie is locked up. The few times I forgot to turn my front ARB off on the trail, its near impossible to make a turn. I'd imagine driving around in the snow would be horrible unless you were going very slow.

Like I said before, get a no-slip in the rear and go with that for a while. I've wheeled some damn hard trails with just a rear locker. When you save up some more dough, go with an e-locker in the front. You won't regret it.

Thanks for all the input guys - again, this topic isn't about lunchbox lockers (as we have far too many threads arguing about their benefits and behaviors in various conditions) but rather a selectable locker in the front and a limited slip (TrueTrac) in the rear.

On the front locker issue, I'm planning on a selectable locker - no questions asked. Ideally electronic for the sake of simplicity (as sunburned has described).

In the rear, my only reasoning for a TrueTrac is as follows:

• I do enjoy high-speed fun in 2WD on dirt/gravel roads on private land (think south Texas terrain), and want more predictable behavior in those scenarios. Seems like the TrueTrac is a winner in the LSD arena for multiple reasons (maintenance-free, seemingly pretty beefy) and would fit the bill.
• In the event that traction is limited in the rear (i.e. one wheel in the air), a locked front in conjunction with part-time 4WD would likely be sufficient to get me moving again in just about every situation I've ever been in. I don't rock crawl, so these scenarios are pretty few and far between.

Is my logic here flawed?

I am considering your combo as well... Would a clutch LSD like an auburn be better than the trutrac in the rear?

60anny said:

I am considering your combo as well... Would a clutch LSD like an auburn be better than the trutrac in the rear?

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I'd think no - but then again, if someone could shed some light on the clutch pack vs. Torsen-style LSDs, that'd be cool.

Yes! Someone please chime in!

anthrax323 said:

I'd think no - but then again, if someone could shed some light on the clutch pack vs. Torsen-style LSDs, that'd be cool.

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Well, clutch packs wear, torsens don't. Torsens need both wheels on the ground, but then again a clutch-pack isn't going to do a WHOLE lot better with one wheel in the air. Torsens are probably a little rougher on components.

Personally i wouldn't bother with a clutch-style unless you absolutely insist on factory-like driving.