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XJ Rebuild...

Actually did some stuff to the jeep...

Decided the swing out will not be going back on, at least not back on the passenger side, might move it over to the driver side...so cut off the old stuff...





Then I moved onto electrical... I went thru all the years worth of relays and crap, ripped it all out and actually used grommets and stuff! Moved my switchs up, they are ext idle and fans on...



All the old relays and such....

 
So this happened....







Oh and the carrier bearings fell right of... so I guess its shot?



Nothing like 600$ chromoy shafts that don't clear each other...




Actually been broke for a while now but i'm finally motivated to fix it. I'm looking for a new D30 housing to truss and gear. I set up the gears myself and they always made just a little noise, got 7k or so mles out of them, rear is still dead quite and metal free. I think I can do a better job on the front so I'm going to take another try...lol

In the meantime I ordered up some fancy 5125s for the rear and have HD front stiffeners on the way as well.

More to come!
 
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Its looking good. Are you going to run steel under the front sub frame as well? That's my plan since I am going to the 350. I also figure that not running under allows the front to still flex more than the middle of the Jeep.
 
Its looking good. Are you going to run steel under the front sub frame as well? That's my plan since I am going to the 350. I also figure that not running under allows the front to still flex more than the middle of the Jeep.

I thought about it but for now I am just doing the sides, I figure if I ever go to tons then I should do it...

Finished up the driver side, added some bracing to the track bar mount as well.



How I tied the bumper back into the "frame"



Will knock out the passenger side tomorrow.
 
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For me the "fun" part is looking at the finished product. In your case it looks like you had a GREAT time. :D

I really like how you tied the bumper brackets into the stiffeners.
 
Yes, the stiffeners don't look too fun to do, So i had Brian at HDOR weld mine on when he did my cage.
 
I hear yo gotta grind the crap out of the chassis to remove the undercoating/zinc coating they used to prevent corrosion... That's about the only thing that has prevented me from doing them so far... Correct me if I'm wrong???
 
I hear yo gotta grind the crap out of the chassis to remove the undercoating/zinc coating they used to prevent corrosion... That's about the only thing that has prevented me from doing them so far... Correct me if I'm wrong???

For the mids you do, I did those 2 years ago and used a flap disk to get it off, the fronts didn't have any to deal with. For the fronts I outligned and marked the holes and then hit just the spots I was welding at with a grinder.

any tips or pointers on doing them?

Have plenty of soda pop on hand.... It also took me longer then I thought it would, but mine was also differnet due to my bumper and I also wanted to paint the whole wheel well, so that took some more time. Beefeing up the track bar mount and making the tie in plates to the mids also added more time but worth it IMO.
 
Worked on cleaning up the shafts, the short side seems fine but 2 of the trunions on the long side were froze up, so I pressed it out, I can't seem to get more than 2 years out of theses Spicer 5-760xs before the grease dries up....





The shafts are G2 and you can see from my earlier pics that the ears from the inners would crash into the outers on sharp turns making a horrible sound. I clearanced a little material off both...



 
After much debate I decided to just run the ruff stuff t steering setup I have had for like 2 years...





Well this wont do...







and boxed it....





Tie rod welded up...





Clearance to ruff stuff cover at full lock...



Turning radius will be slightly less do to interference at the buckets, here's new adjusted stops compared to the original ones ...

Passenger



Driver

 
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Few more goodies in today...



Burned in the IRO C gussets, they really don't fit that great and took a decent amount of grinder work to fit good...





Also looks like the JKS over axle bracket further reduces steering travel, I will see if I can move it more to the rear but not until the Artec truss is on...

 
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