• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

XJ on Tons..... Brakes?

I have no use for people like you.. Infact if your close enough I make make a visit to you and repeadily punch in your mug till you had to carry your jaw with you to the hospital and my hand was broken.
You appear to be mad.
 
i run a late model xj booster and master with dodge d60 single piston front brakes and late model ford d60 twin piston rear brakes on my 14 bolt and it stops my 37's just fine. It's really more brake than i need and the pedal feels fine. The dodge master may be better, but you should be fine with the xj stuff for the short term. or long term. I daily drive mine and stopping in time is not a concern.
 
the 609s are a few months out on actually being installed, right now i have a ford 9 rear with drums and WJ converted D30 up front. since i have down time would it be a bad idea to do the master cylinder or hydroboost now or will that blow out the brakes i have now?
 
I'd probably not go with manual brakes on a full-bodied XJ.

There's a lot more to it than just dropping in the correct master cylinder, like pedal/push-rod ratios for starters.
 
When I was sizing the MC for another project, what I did was calculate the combined frontal caliper piston surface area, the combined rear wheel cylinder area, and started looking at vehicles that were comparably equipped from the factory. Then I matched my MC bore and power booster to what they used.
Pedal ratios are different for manual brakes and power brakes, I've heard people say they are different between a 1/2 ton GMT-400 truck with vacuum boost and 3/4 with HB. I'm sure it makes a difference, but I don't think it's worth losing sleep over.
 
You can have the master from my red jeep when I put a stock one back in.
 
I'm running the '98 Dodge 2500 master cylinder with great results. As someone else posted, that link on Pirate has some good info.

My setup is:
ProRock 60 front (massive dual-piston calipers)
3/4 Chevy rear
37" tires on heavy steel beadlocks

I doubt the stock master would push enough fluid for effective braking with these axles.
 
I'm running the '98 Dodge 2500 master cylinder with great results. As someone else posted, that link on Pirate has some good info.

My setup is:
ProRock 60 front (massive dual-piston calipers)
3/4 Chevy rear
37" tires on heavy steel beadlocks

I doubt the stock master would push enough fluid for effective braking with these axles.

i dunno man, the stocker crap locks mine up pretty easily. At no point have i ever wished for more brakes.
 
I think it's likely to be pedal feel rather than brake performance.
The compromise is that a larger MC will give you less pressure but move more fluid, so the brakes start to contact with less pedal travel. Stock junk should give you slightly more brakes, but lower in the pedal stroke.
 
I think it's likely to be pedal feel rather than brake performance.
The compromise is that a larger MC will give you less pressure but move more fluid, so the brakes start to contact with less pedal travel. Stock junk should give you slightly more brakes, but lower in the pedal stroke.

sounds about right. It's really not that far in the pedal stroke, nothing i ever noticed anyways. If anything, it keeps me from over braking in emergency situations. They are definitely there when you need them though.

I have considered hydroboost, mainly for the underhood clearance.
 
I've looked more into the hydra boost set up, i hear people say it's bad because you're overworking the PS pump, anyone feel that way? Maybe just ad a PS cooler?
 
Dunno. I'm not up enough on hydraulics to say if that makes sense. What I will say, though, is this : the WJ pump pushes more volume / pressure to compensate for a heavier vehicle & a hydraulic engine fan. It has dual return nipples, which is what you want for HB anyway.
I don't have any numbers to back it up, but I think that a WJ pump + hydroboost = success.
FWIW, lots of people run HB retrofits without any trouble on their stock steering pumps. My old man runs it on everything he owns, has reported only success. I don't have any street miles on my Silverado 4.8 motor w/ Astro HB yet, but can report that brakes feel awesome & steering is feather-light.
 
if you build a wheeling rig you should upgrade your pump anyway.

I would not hesitate to run hydroboost on my PSC pump if it were necessary.
 
if you build a wheeling rig you should upgrade your pump anyway.

I would not hesitate to run hydroboost on my PSC pump if it were necessary.


i am looking at those kits now. i like their LS kits and the one that is made for rigs with hydro brake setups. i think i will upgrade to one of those after everything else is worked out.


ok with my jeep if i hold the brakes i can feel the pedal leak down and i am not losing any fluid exernaly so.... i have a bad master anyway, also if i push the brake with the motor off then start it the pedal doesn't move either. which, makes me think i have a bad booster aswell. so. new brake parts time.

replacement booster and.... E-350 master? i know hood clearance is an issue with some of them, which one clears the hood?
 
So I run a WJ booster/MC, 3/4" chebby rear discs on a 14 bolt and Tbird front calipers on a 44 and the damn thing stops real good. some idiot cut me off 2 days ago and slammed his brakes to make a right turn into jack in the box and the jeep stopped in its tracks. I thought for sure I would end up in his trunk. I plan on getting a larger bore MC for better pedal feel, but it works with 3" bore calipers front and rear.
 
Well.... I'm headed home with a 99 2500 Dodge gas job master cylinder now, also the rain is picking up so I guess I'll have to wait on installing it.

In the pirate thread he had to modify the actual pushrod in the booster, will I need to do the same on my stock XJ booster?
 
Back
Top