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XJ Buildup III

Instead of using WJ steering linkage, I selected 1.50" OD .250" wall DOM tube with weld inserts and Tera offset TRE's. The Tera units are 7/8" thread x 18 tpi.
The offset TRE's provide the tierod and draglink clearance needed to clear the diff, trackbar bracket and coil buckets. The pitman arm TRE is not offset.

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I've been very happy with this steering setup. Steering is precise and I love the absence of bumpsteer. I've not seen the need to run a steering stablizer. The WJ brake/steering combo is one the best mods I'd done to enhance overall drivability, it's they way the XJ should have been equipped from the factory.
 
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So Jeff what was the verdict on the crown vs spicer ball joints?

I am thinking of doing mine again and just wanted to know, thanks.
 
So Jeff what was the verdict on the crown vs spicer ball joints?

I am thinking of doing mine again and just wanted to know, thanks.

Really can't give a recommendation on the longevity of the Crown balljoints VS MOOG, as I swapped them out for MOOG units when I did the WJ Knuckle/Brake swap.
 
It's been a while since I've updated this thread.
The Jeep is working well and I'm very pleased with how it performs, both off and on the road. I've always planned on an OTA truss for the D44 using DOM, but didn't want to weld it to the diff housing. Bolted to the diff cover is what I have in mind.

I've modified my Ruffstuff D44 cover by adding a section of 3/8" plate to the top to accommodate this goal. Truss is in the works.

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UPDATE:

When I installed my Anti-Rock swaybar setup, I used the universal kit and had the arms bent for proper clearance. I gusseted the inside of the arm bend, but not the outside. I was questioned about not gusseting both sides of the bend at the time, and I have managed to tweak the pass side arm. Nothing major, just proof that both sides of the arm need to be gusseted.

Here's a look at the arms with both gussets in place. I've wheeled it pretty hard since this mod, problem solved.

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I love the product. My rig is a DD and I average 60 miles per day on the freeway, so running an anti-sway bar is a must. I love how it balances out the suspension on the trail as well, whether it's slow speed crawling or blasting down sandy washes and two-tracks, plus I never have to mess with disco's. Curries didn't make the bolt-on kit for XJ's when I installed mine, so it's even easier to install now.
 
I completed this mod a while ago but it never made it onto my build thread, so here you go.


Installing Jeep ZJ (Grand Cherokee) Front Seat Headrests onto a Jeep XJ (Cherokee) rear bench seat

As my kids have grown, the need for rear seat headrests has become apparent for their safety. Why Chrysler didn't make this standard equipment on US model Cherokees is a mystery. For the record, my rig is a 2000 Jeep XJ Sport.

I looked at several options for donor headrests, even purchasing a full set of WJ leather seats at one point. I still wasn't convinced that I wanted to install WJ seats in my rig.

Within a few weeks of purchasing them I ran across a street-rodder who wanted the fronts for his pickup and the rears left just as fast to the owner of a WJ who had lost his rear seats to a 2-ton delivery truck. (No, they were not in the vehicle at the time) I turned a nice profit on the WJ seats and moved on.

A short time later I came across a set of ZJ front buckets with adjustable headrests in good shape for $50.00. The fabric on the ZJ headrests were nearly an identical match to my rear seat trim color and when I pulled the covers, it was clear to me that I could make the bracketry work on the XJ rear seat with a little “massaging”.

The following photos and notes detail the required mods and installation process.

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Below is the ZJ Headrest, attached to a section of seatframe that I removed via Sawzall. Once I had a good feel for
how much of the stock ZJ bracketry I would need to complete this mod, I removed the excess seatframe surrounding
the bracket.

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I laid out the placement of the ZJ bracket on the XJ rear seat frame. The measurements for proper spacing are noted
in the photo below.

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I used 3/8" round bar stock run parallel with the seatback to reinforce the notched areas. This also provides support to the plastic headrest strut tubes.

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I reinforced and braced the ZJ bracket with some surplus 3/8" and 7/16" round bar that I had on hand.

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Hopefully this write-up has been helpful and will allow you to perform the same mod on your XJ.

XJEEPER
 
The brass 'T' that you installed for your diff - is that where the air is supplied from the ARB or is that only for venting?
 
The brass 'T' that you installed for your diff - is that where the air is supplied from the ARB or is that only for venting?

Both.
The copper line from the ARB routes straight thru the brass tube and connects to the fitting on the end, the vent tube connects to the upper fitting on the T, venting out the top.

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I looked at several options for donor headrests, even purchasing a full set of WJ leather seats at one point. I still wasn't convinced that I wanted to install WJ seats in my rig.

I'm at the same point, and have considered the WJ seats.

Why did you not go ahead with the WJ seats?
 
The decision for me what that the WJ seats required more work than I wanted to do, to gain headrests in the rear. I would have had to swap in the WJ front seats also to avoid a mismatched look and the WJ front seats I sourced were pretty worn. I was able to sell the WJ seats for a profit and if I do replace my seats in the future, it will be for some nice suspension seats.
 
The brass 'T' that you installed for your diff - is that where the air is supplied from the ARB or is that only for venting?

Both.
The copper line from the ARB routes straight thru the brass tube and connects to the fitting on the end, the vent tube connects to the upper fitting on the T, venting out the top.

I borrowed this idea from XJEEPER, thanks again! Thought I could help by posting a pic of the exploded view of the fittings.

ARB copper line runs through the nipple, through the T, and then into the ARB supplied bulkhead fitting which in this case has been adapted to use a 1/4" push connect fitting instead of the metric compression fitting it came with. Vented air passes around the ARB copper line, through the nipple, up the T, and out the barb.

 
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