• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

WJ Knuckle Swap, trying a different approach

Status
Not open for further replies.
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I had a guy I worked with a few years ago that got tired of breaking joints and axles in his uber modded YJ so he put CV axles in from a XJ and they lived. He's not kind to it either. Probably the 1 in a million odds of them living in there.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

x2 I agree with what you stated, i.e. the spacer is to keep the u-joint axis in line with the knuckle axis... but you could have been a bit less abrasive.

I wonder if RCV makes a high strength cv joint for the WJ... RCV joint + WJ brakes and knuckle + XJ sized axle half shafts sounds like it might work... if it exists.

On the stub shafts I believe they would be found on non quadra 4x4 systems. Like on the 231/242 transfer case WJs... much like the ZJ.

What, like these?
https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=120&osCsid=8bba82bd53367f39ff91d900e6721cd9

My biggest draw to these is that they have tone rings on them for abs, they would be nice with the wj rotor and dual pattern D44 shafts with abs tone rings on them using zj abs hardware in the rear (which I already have)

I've e-mailed them asking if they would work with rcv xj inners, but have not gotten a response, I guess inhale to pick up a phone
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

Metalman, I agree that the OP should come back and edit, or remove the misleading info, but I think the thread should stay. Through all the BS and arguing there's a ton of good info from properly informed people that can clear up the 'mysteries' of this swap. On another note, how many of those who did the swap went to the WJ steering as well? How did you bring the trackbar/draglink back into the same plane?
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I agree that this thread should stay, but how about a summation. What really is the CORRECT Way! What are all the RIGHT setups that could possibly be used that are safe? Include all specific parts including ball joints and part numbers would be AWESOME!
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I agree that this thread should stay, but how about a summation. What really is the CORRECT Way! What are all the RIGHT setups that could possibly be used that are safe? Include all specific parts including ball joints and part numbers would be AWESOME!

I think that's already been done. Check post #87 on page 6.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I wanted to address what came up earlier about the washers behind the rotors, as I came up with a solution to it that I feel much better about.

My set up: WJ knuckles, .25" JKS spacers welded on, 2000 TJ unit bearings (same as XJ hub with cast rotor), Akenobo calipers, WJ lower ball joints, XJ uppers, 2000 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Rotors, 1.5" Wheel spacers, 16" Jeep Moab Rims

So with this set up I either needed to space the caliper or the rotor to get them to center up. I had been using 5 grade 8 washer behind the rotor. I had never had trouble with it, but always wondered about it. I figured a better solution was to have a solid steel spacer between the rotor and hub. There are a number of ways to this, and one option is to have a set of custom steel spacers cut on a water jet. My local guy wanted about $65 to cut a set. Instead, I ended up picking up these from Speeway motors for $37 total:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-Wheel-Shim-Shield-6-1-4-Inch-OD,25609.html

The overall diameter was a touch too large too fit into the rotor cap (which I knew was going to be the case), so I had to grind them down. I also found out the holes were a touch too small to fit over the base of my wheel studs, so I used my reamer and made them a bit larger. Overall, it would have been faster and easier to just get the ones custom cut, but seeing as I have more time than money these days, it worked out OK. It also says that hey are .094" thick but they were only .08" when I put the caliper on them.

The spacing is perfect now, and the rotor lines up exactly in the center of the pads in the caliper. I feel better having a mostly solid piece of steel in there now rather than just 5 washers.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I wanted to address what came up earlier about the washers behind the rotors, as I came up with a solution to it that I feel much better about.

My set up: WJ knuckles, .25" JKS spacers welded on, 2000 TJ unit bearings (same as XJ hub with cast rotor), Akenobo calipers, WJ lower ball joints, XJ uppers, 2000 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Rotors, 1.5" Wheel spacers, 16" Jeep Moab Rims

Hmmmm, seems like you put a lot of extra time and effort into making the spacer thing work, when simply redrilling WJ rotors would have taken less time and less money.
It may work fine, but I wouldn't run a spacer under my rotor, when there are equal if not better options.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

Hmmmm, seems like you put a lot of extra time and effort into making the spacer thing work, when simply redrilling WJ rotors would have taken less time and less money.
It may work fine, but I wouldn't run a spacer under my rotor, when there are equal if not better options.

Agreed. I probably could have just redrilled wj rotors, but it would have been close on the "less time, less money" thing. But, there's more than one way one way to skin this cat, so I was just pointing out a constructive option, FWIW.
 
Sorry I have not gotten back to this, I never got the chance to do that other axle. Rurns out the guy had a old school D44 and didn't know it. I haven't posted because I didn't want to say anything until I had HARD FACTS with detailed measurments. I may have been wrong... I may have been right, but there is no use for me to say anything else I until I can prove it.

But... I did do some measuring on the housing that I had built, and it seems I MIGHT have taken the 1/4" into account when I built the housing, but I do so much around here that I forget what I did to be honest.

Im sorry if some of you feel that I am creating a problem. Due to the graphic insults that have been dealt to me and my vendor status in this thread, I will no longer post in it as it seems that most people do not want to hear what I have to say.

One other thing, metalman, you really have no room to talk to me like that. Vendors such as myself keep this site going with the help of red members who also pay. In my case, I have paid twice, one for a red membership that I normally use, and my blue name which is for my company and the advertisements. You, sir, have given nothing to this site other than a smart ass attitude. Let me clarify that hacks do not do what I do, they do not do factory appearing LS2 swap in a Cherokee, they do not build custom axles, they simply do not compare to what my company does for jeep and off road enthusiasts all over the southeast. You do not know me, and you have never seen any of my work personally. So please keep your negative comments to yourself, until you have a valid reason to insult me on an open forum.
 
.......I haven't posted because I didn't want to say anything until I had HARD FACTS with detailed measurments. I may have been wrong... I may have been right, but there is no use for me to say anything else I until I can prove it.

But... I did do some measuring on the housing that I had built, and it seems I MIGHT have taken the 1/4" into account when I built the housing, but I do so much around here that I forget what I did to be honest......

Before I reply on the insult issue, you really shouldn't be taking measurements like these with a tape measure and getting "1/4" it should be something your getting in thousandths which is how the bearings needed to be measured too, anyways, how on earth could you "account" for a 1/4 difference in the knuckle by changing the housing? Unless your a blacksmith and you reforged the WJ knuckle outwards the distance of the spacer? The spacer accounts for the difference between the knuckle and the stub/bearing measurement, the Ujoint and ball joints have to be in the same plane regardless of the housing if your using an axle of this design. the stub shaft, and the knuckle, have no idea what housing they are on as long as they are in the same plane. You could put them in a dana 80 housing, but if your using WJ knuckles with XJ stubs, your going to need the spacer to keep the U joint in plane with the ball joints. Your story STILL doesn't add up.

THINK, you need a Ujoint or CV because the knuckle has to turn for steering, hence the ball joints. so WHY would you bend the shaft at the ball joint plane, but put the flex joint in the shaft somewhere else? If the ujoint was 4 inches off, of course thats wrong, but then why would being off 1/4" be okay? It isn't, and its going to catch up to you eventually. The spacer keeps the u joint in plane with the ball joints. You yourself even admitted the bearings were all the same, so the spacer corrects for XJ stubs and WJ knuckles being different.

The reason this concerned me to such a degree was because it is grossly unsafe. I promise you if a professional shop did something like this, they would be completely legally liable for the deaths/damages that could occur from the mayhem a broken shaft can let loose at high speed. I worded my post strongly, even a little dramatically, because people needed to understand that you don't get to make mistake in your front end when your out on the open roads. Anyone who's had a steering shaft snap, or even a front tire blow out on the highway knows what I'm talking about.

The reason I attacked you personally, was that you defended yourself personally. You were called on a technical point, and instead of saying, "oops, I get it now, post modified" or even arguing it, you hid behind "golly gee I do so much work (hopefully not front axle work) and my engine swaps are so good looking and I'm a vendor so I can't be wrong", you made it personal when you weighed in with your reputation over facts. You could do the best LS2 swap on the planet, your front end is still unsound and that LS2 isn't going to magically hold your front wheel on if the shaft snaps and binds against the ball joint (guys pop them crawling, wanna roll the dice at 70mph?) I insulted you because you are being irresponsible, because by now you KNOW you were wrong, and you've left the same unmodified "CORRECT way" title up with the same bad info because you obviously feel your reputation is at stake, when if you had just dealt with it and fixed the info, it wouldn't have been a big deal.

I'm not very impressed that the mods here are willing to step in and delete or edit my posts because I'm not a paying member, but a vendor is allowed to put up a DANGEROUSLY wrong how to guide, and he gets the green light and handed this made up moral high ground because he politely told someone to do something so stupid and I rudely told them how to do it right, I guess its manners over safety here. Yeah, I'm one guy, and even if I did put down the cash to be a paying member, its probably a lot less than you, but that doesn't make you right, and it doesn't mean this forum is run right. This is exactly why this forum gets bashed in a lot of the other forums, which is a shame.
 
Unless your a blacksmith and you reforged the WJ knuckle outwards the distance of the spacer? The spacer accounts for the difference between the knuckle and the stub/bearing measurement, the Ujoint and ball joints have to be in the same plane regardless of the housing if your using an axle of this design. the stub shaft, and the knuckle, have no idea what housing they are on as long as they are in the same plane. You could put them in a dana 80 housing, but if your using WJ knuckles with XJ stubs, your going to need the spacer to keep the U joint in plane with the ball joints. Your story STILL doesn't add up.
exactly what I was going to say when I found the thread was locked.

I'm not very impressed that the mods here are willing to step in and delete or edit my posts because I'm not a paying member, but a vendor is allowed to put up a DANGEROUSLY wrong how to guide, and he gets the green light and handed this made up moral high ground because he politely told someone to do something so stupid and I rudely told them how to do it right, I guess its manners over safety here. Yeah, I'm one guy, and even if I did put down the cash to be a paying member, its probably a lot less than you, but that doesn't make you right, and it doesn't mean this forum is run right. This is exactly why this forum gets bashed in a lot of the other forums, which is a shame.

First of all, it is not because you are not a paying member. I have the rule infraction notice on my account to prove it...

It is because you worded it how you did. while I agree that this is unsafe, and saying it that way may have even been justified, rules are rules. There is sadly no rule against bad info :(

The thread title and posts older than 45 minutes cannot be modified by anyonee except a mod or admin here, this was because some fairly childish people decided that when they left they would take all their posts with them by editing them to remove the content in the past, and it avoids people playing games with pricing and parts descriptions on classified ads. Not really much of an excuse though, if I found I had posted info that was dangerously incorrect and misleading I would report my own thread to request that someone modify it to at least warn people it was incorrect.
 
First of all, it is not because you are not a paying member. I have the rule infraction notice on my account to prove it...

It is because you worded it how you did. while I agree that this is unsafe, and saying it that way may have even been justified, rules are rules. There is sadly no rule against bad info :(

The thread title and posts older than 45 minutes cannot be modified by anyonee except a mod or admin here, this was because some fairly childish people decided that when they left they would take all their posts with them by editing them to remove the content in the past, and it avoids people playing games with pricing and parts descriptions on classified ads. Not really much of an excuse though, if I found I had posted info that was dangerously incorrect and misleading I would report my own thread to request that someone modify it to at least warn people it was incorrect.

Ken is right, the reason this thread hasn't been deleted yet is because there is a lot of GOOD tech refuting the approach the OP took in doing this swap. I edited your personal attack out of the thread against the OP because it was against the rules. I also locked the thread for approximately 20 hours or so to let tempers calm down. Apparently, that wasn't long enough for you. I am now locking this thread AGAIN, for another 24 hours, at which time I will delete the entire thread. If you or anyone else would care to discuss this thread further, feel free to PM me or another moderator.
:lock:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top