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WJ conversion ???

CartsXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Glenville, NY
So I did some searching and didn't find what I was looking for. So here is a few questions:

1. What size and length are the bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle?

2. I am going to be running a MM 5 on 4.5 hub kit with 2001 4x4 sport-trac rotors and ALK (late model, sliver) calipers, do I need custom spacers to space the brackets from the knuckles and how does this effect the length of the bolt and what width do they need to be?

I have pretty much everything else, its just I am going to be traveling all next week and haven't gotten a chance to measure anything while on the road and want to do the swap next weekend.

TIA
 
interested in the mm swap. I think my buddy used spacers that he bought from jks. you wont need to space the bolt, and it depends on the difference between the stock hub and the MM hud as to if you will need to space it, usually you do.
 
I didn't space mine out any... It works fine with the stock bolt.

The only spacer needed is between the knuckle and the hub, but you already knew that.

Akebono?
 
Yeah, Akebono calipers, forgot there name when I wrote the orginal post. Does anybody know what size and length the stock bolts are? I got the knuckles and calipers seperate and no hardware, can I just go to vatozone, napa, etc. and ordered them? Or are they a dealer only part. If I knew the size and length, mcmaster would have an order by now.
 
lowrange2 said:
I didn't space mine out any... It works fine with the stock bolt.

The only spacer needed is between the knuckle and the hub, but you already knew that.

Akebono?


And yea, the jks knuckle spacers are already welded up.
 
How accurate does the thickness of the weld on spacer need to be? The JKS one is said to be 0.25" which in metric terms is 6.35mm. I'll probably be making the spacers for my WJ knuckle swop myself as shipping of parts from the US to South Africa is relatively expensive. Saying that, in SA I doubt whether I'll find 0.25" plate that I can make the spacer out of. I will however be able to get 6mm plate - will that 0.35mm be of any significance? The way I figure the inner side shafts will just move that little bit on the splines, right?
 
gorman said:
How accurate does the thickness of the weld on spacer need to be? The JKS one is said to be 0.25" which in metric terms is 6.35mm. I'll probably be making the spacers for my WJ knuckle swop myself as shipping of parts from the US to South Africa is relatively expensive. Saying that, in SA I doubt whether I'll find 0.25" plate that I can make the spacer out of. I will however be able to get 6mm plate - will that 0.35mm be of any significance? The way I figure the inner side shafts will just move that little bit on the splines, right?


I doubt .013" would make that much of a differnce, hell its probably within factory tolerances.
 
So did you ever figure out what size the bolt is to mount the caliper to the knuckle? I am having the same issue right now. Along with a few others.

0728082032.jpg
 
Go to the dealer and buy the caliper mount kit. The caliper mount uses serrated, lock-tighted bolts. I've seen a handful of people just put 'normal' bolts in there and I've seen a handful of people have a caliper come loose on the road.
 
How far away is the tow truck? ;)

I've re-used my last set of the dealer issued bolts about 8 times now, which is about 5 more than I am comfortable with .. mind you, I installed/removed my caliper mounts six times this weekend.

Its just one of those things that isn't a huge task (albeit inconvenient for you) and can have nasty consequences.

If its that far, buy 3-4 sets. I think I paid $8 or something.
 
Yeah, it took me forever to complete mine. I did it with 30 spline inners and outers, using the alloy-usa 30 spline unit bearings. Later I went back and re-did it using the warn 5x5.5 hub kit. Both worked out pretty good.
 
I had a machine shop weld on my spacer, since I had the knuckles in the shop I took the reamer in to them and had them ream the knuckles too. Well I bolted them up today and I'll be damed if they didn't ream them from the bottom rather than the top. I know I told them from the top because I remember him marking the top of the knuckle with paint and its still there. So I now have this fancy setup without the highsteer that I wanted. Now I am going to have to find some inserts or something for chevy tierod ends to flip them to over knuckle.
I ordered my tube adapters from Ballistic Fab. They sent me the correct left hand thread adapters but the right hand threaded ones are a different thread count so I am having a machine shop make me some. A different one than from before.
I was also checking out my brake pads that I got from Summit, they are wrong also. So I am going to have to send them back and wait on the correct ones or just go down to the local parts store and get some cheap ones.
I wonder whats next??? Oh well it has been fun to some extent, ball joints are a bit** to get out and back in. It is fun to see the difference between the stock stuff and what's on it now, or going on it. This stuff is huge compared to stock. Cant wait to give it all a try.
 
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