Who likes Rusty's

[SanDiegoOverland]

Had a lift kit for a J10 pickup from them about 6 years ago. It's a simple kit, and wasn't too expensive, but it arrived promptly, contained all it's parts and it went on without to much fuss at all.

I had some questions about the install being a newb at the time, and Rusty himself got on the line and talked to me for about 20 mins, "southern twang" and all. Like I said, it was very simple compared to an XJ kit, but the product and cust. service was top notch from beginning to end.

I'm of the opinion that any company can put out a crap product from time to time, or can have a crap design as part of a kit.

Example:

-Rubicon express sway bar disconnects
-Rough country control arm joints
-old style OME shocks (I had 3 start leaking catastrophically on a Suzuki grand vitara, doing very light wheeling and freeway driving)

etc, etc.

If the company recognizes that fact, makes it right with an under-warranty replacement, and/or replaces the product with a better design free of charge (as was the case with Rough country, if I'm not mistaken) I think that's what defines a "good" company to deal with. I know Rusty's has bought a lot of machining/Milling/laser cutting equipment in the last few years in an attempt to raise the bar quality-wise, whilst keeping shelves stocked with products to meet higher demand.

That in itself is pretty legit..I've seen a bunch of companies start to become popular, and simply not have the coin or foresight to do the same. Usually results in long ship times or crappy, rush-job quality.

my .02 cents

 

[Boss Cherokee]

the website says corona.

if you are going to get their joints, call up Gerald at Savvy offroad. he is in yorba linda, great guy and his prices are usually the best.

Warehouse is in Corona the shop is in Anahiem. I picked up my Johnny Joints from Corona. When it came to my Chrome moly front axles they said I had to pick them up in Anahiem. They told me they did not do will call from Corona, go figure???

 

[Johnnie Walker]

I would say their parts that do not move after installed are fine. And heard that their coil springs have a nice spring rate.

 

[Customizer1000]

I would say their parts that do not move after installed are fine. And heard that their coil springs have a nice spring rate.

Rustys? Their coils are progressive rate, very nice imo

 

[souske]

I hated my rustys coils, much too soft. Love the deavers I replaced them with

 

[Paul Airhart]

I have Rusty's spring ped's, LCA mounts and mini skids. It's heavy duty stuff.

 

[rockclimber]

That's not completely true, As i have been dealing with the snap ring coming apart. This is the 2nd time this has happened to me, kind of annoying.

make sure you seat it all the way down.

what are you using to compress the bushing halves? I use a piece of allthread and a couple sockets. once you have the bushing compressed all the way, and you get the snap ring all the way in there, I use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to tap it in all the way around so that I know it is seated all the way.


if course, if you are over-traveling the joint and putting too much side-load on the races, that can force the snap ring to bend or come out.

 

[souske]

but with the snap ring, you cannot adjust preload on the joint. once the poly wears, you have to rebuild the joint, as opposed to snugging it down to get you home.

My first jeep came with a full rustys kit. The only part I felt comfortable selling was the Fixed LCA's, never had a problem with them (other than being fixed, and too long to work with DB's)

 

[boostamante]

make sure you seat it all the way down.

what are you using to compress the bushing halves? I use a piece of allthread and a couple sockets. once you have the bushing compressed all the way, and you get the snap ring all the way in there, I use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to tap it in all the way around so that I know it is seated all the way.


if course, if you are over-traveling the joint and putting too much side-load on the races, that can force the snap ring to bend or come out.

It was all the way down and re-installed it the way you described. Came back out again. Gonna be working on it this week.

 

[rockclimber]

but with the snap ring, you cannot adjust preload on the joint. once the poly wears, you have to rebuild the joint, as opposed to snugging it down to get you home.

second thrust washer can be used to tighten the joint down if it becomes ridiculously loose. all you need is a piece of all-thread, a couple sockets the right size and a couple nuts to take the snap ring out, then compress it again. a large C-clamp also works.

but really, once you have rebuilt a JJ, you will see that the urethane inners get compressed so much there is no need for a pre-load adjustment. the amount that the joint would have to wear to be un-driveable is ridiculous.

and since I drove 40 miles home at 40mph with a johnny joint on an LCA completely separated (last time I run a trail without the tools to fix it) with nothing more than a bit of DW above 40 (no steering stabilizer) I would not be too worried about it.

It was all the way down and re-installed it the way you described. Came back out again. Gonna be working on it this week.

what size joint? the smaller joints are more prone to this, especially if they are getting over-traveled.

you may have done this, but when you put the snap ring in use the snap ring pliers to expand the snap ring as much as possible before releasing the pre-load on the bushing halves so that it is firmly seated all the way around, not just on one side. if one of the edges works loose, it will come free again.

also, make sure the bushing halves are properly aligned, sometimes, if the ridges don't line up it can create a fold in the bushing which can let the thrust washer work loose in a section and then the snap ring can work its way out.

 

[boostamante]

1" shank JJ.

Ill have to remember to do all that again.

second thrust washer can be used to tighten the joint down if it becomes ridiculously loose. all you need is a piece of all-thread, a couple sockets the right size and a couple nuts to take the snap ring out, then compress it again. a large C-clamp also works.

but really, once you have rebuilt a JJ, you will see that the urethane inners get compressed so much there is no need for a pre-load adjustment. the amount that the joint would have to wear to be un-driveable is ridiculous.

and since I drove 40 miles home at 40mph with a johnny joint on an LCA completely separated (last time I run a trail without the tools to fix it) with nothing more than a bit of DW above 40 (no steering stabilizer) I would not be too worried about it.



what size joint? the smaller joints are more prone to this, especially if they are getting over-traveled.

you may have done this, but when you put the snap ring in use the snap ring pliers to expand the snap ring as much as possible before releasing the pre-load on the bushing halves so that it is firmly seated all the way around, not just on one side. if one of the edges works loose, it will come free again.

also, make sure the bushing halves are properly aligned, sometimes, if the ridges don't line up it can create a fold in the bushing which can let the thrust washer work loose in a section and then the snap ring can work its way out.

 

[rockclimber]

1" shank JJ.

Ill have to remember to do all that again.

huh... the large joints don't usually have as this problem (unless you don't put them together right like I did)

also check and make sure that the snap ring seat, and the bushing half seat are machined flat. if they aren't that could be contributing to your problem.

if they aren't right, currie will take care of it.

 

[Skwerly]

I’ve the same experience, SanDiegoOverland. When I called with an issue, Rusty himself got on the horn and cheerfully helped me. I even got a 10% off because of being a member. He’s good people.

 

[rockclimber]

I’ve the same experience, SanDiegoOverland. When I called with an issue, Rusty himself got on the horn and cheerfully helped me. I even got a 10% off because of being a member. He’s good people.

funny... last time I called them with an issue I spoke to rusty as well.

now the fact that he told me the product I was having an issue with (TREs) is substandard and there was nothing they could do for me other than sell me more of them that will wear out made me not that happy... but at least he was honest.

 

[Skwerly]

Well, sure, that sucks, but like you mentioned, it’d suck worse if he lied. The guy does straight-up bidness, and I greatly appreciate that.

 

[rockclimber]

Well, sure, that sucks, but like you mentioned, it’d suck worse if he lied. The guy does straight-up bidness, and I greatly appreciate that.

he did tell me to buy moog or GM 1-ton ends from someone and the only reason he doesn't sell them is because he can't get good enough pricing to make it worth it.

 

[Skwerly]

Ah, yea. Cool! For a small operation, I feel he puts out really good stuff. As I mentioned, I've been on very tough trails and have kept up easily with all the RE/OME guys; hell, I've even yanked a few out.

 

[old_man]

Having used Rusty's many years ago, I would say that they make a reasonable part for a reasonable price.

The problem is that many of us treat our rigs unreasonably. :dunno:

 

[Bigsby]

I use a good bit of Rusty's products and have beat the crap out of my rig without failure. In fact I currently run their 3 1/2" spring pack lift with Rusty's custom control arms. Their customer service is also outstanding.

 

[Skwerly]

My rig has done more unreasonable things than I can count, and those springs take it all.