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Which Locker

UtahFire said:
Anyway, I got a refund on the no-slip and purchased a Detriot from Rocklogic in Salt Lake. I have not had a problem since. The road behavior is as good or better than the no-slip.
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For some reason, im having a REALLY hard time believing that a full blown detroit has better street manners than a No-Slip.
 
Been looking at some of these same units for my 01 any input on any of them as fas as street use in winter weather, snows alot in Indiana my Jeep is my DD. Thanks
 
Jeffro600 said:
For some reason, im having a REALLY hard time believing that a full blown detroit has better street manners than a No-Slip.
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It may be that powertrax was correct when they said that my stock carrier might have a factory defect because my no-slips popped and snapped all over the place. My Detroit has only "unloaded" on me three or four times. You can hear a slight "ratchet" on tight turns.

Maybe I'm just use to it.
 
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bowhunter said:
Been looking at some of these same units for my 01 any input on any of them as fas as street use in winter weather, snows alot in Indiana my Jeep is my DD. Thanks
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It snows here in Salt Lake too. I have had a rear locker for 3 winters now. You do have to be carefull in very slippery situations. The rear will tend to slip side-to-side. I found that if I run in 4-wheel drive, the front wheels pulling helps keep the rear from moving around.

You can do awesome doughnuts though!
 
onlyinajeep07 said:
Well its a 27 spline in my 96, and i was already thinkin about detroit, but what are some options for a selectable locker? Links would be helpful if you know of any.

Thanks Again

Mark
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I have ARB front and rear. Your jeep will handle just like it does now, but you have the option fully lock rear axle, fully lock front axle, or both. I've had mine for a little over a year and love them.
 
onlyinajeep07 said:
is the arb an air locker, if so what kind of air source will i need to be able to actuate them??
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Yes, ARB is an air locker...you need to either purchase the install and compressor kit or another source of pressure...some use CO2.
 
Just my $0.02, but don't spring for the ARB compressor... it pretty much sucks. You can pick up a better one for less (Viair 400C for example). Or CO2.

And while I only have an ARB in the front, they are well worth the sh*tload of money they cost . . .

DR

Jeffro600 said:
Yes, ARB is an air locker...you need to either purchase the install and compressor kit or another source of pressure...some use CO2.
Click to expand...
 
Just asking but since I have a part time would it hurt anything to just weld the front instead of a locker? I have heard of people welding the rear, but no-one ever talks about the front. I have the chry 8.25 in the rear and a D35(so I have been told) in the front of my 94cherokee. I'm getting a porper setup for the rear, but since the front is only engaged when in part time would it matter?
 
reddragon72 said:
Just asking but since I have a part time would it hurt anything to just weld the front instead of a locker? I have heard of people welding the rear, but no-one ever talks about the front. I have the chry 8.25 in the rear and a D35(so I have been told) in the front of my 94cherokee. I'm getting a porper setup for the rear, but since the front is only engaged when in part time would it matter?
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It's a D30 in front.

Have you ever put your Jeep in 4wd on the street and felt it binding as you turn? That's because the front and rear drivelines are locked together, and all the tires are trying to turn the same speed. Weld your front diff, and your front diff will feel a similar bind every time you turn, even in 2wd. As you turn, the front wheels travel different distances. Either one tire will slide along the ground (read: scrape off some of the tread) or something will break. Yes, even in 2wd. And, your steering will want to push straight ahead, because all four wheels (if you're locked in the rear) will be turning the same speed. If you just have to weld one end, weld the rear. If you can save another $200 or so, get another locker.

Yes, I see this thread is from October, but I'm replying anyway.
 
I searched and found this thread, I have been told to search before just posting a new Q. This is close to what I am asking. For the rear what is the best yet most cost effective way to go. I would like a locker that'll behave normal on the street as this is my DD, but do a good job on the trails. What I have right now sucks, OEM. But I was just curious on the front. The D35 thing was becasue two people thought it didn't look to be a 30 but a 35, I thought they were nuts, but I'm not an axle guy. The guy who had this XJ before me did something to front end, the axel was replaced as i found a receipt for it but it does not list what axle was purchased. Everthing checks out on it so I'm not worried, the steering is loose(play wise) but all the linkage is fine. Anyways what is a good rear locker. I'm putting on a black diamond 3" lift on the first and a SYE on the next month. then uping another 1.5 inches via spacers in the front and shackle in the rear. then lockers the fallowing month, well that is the plan right now.
 
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i have an 8.25 and i was wondering what locker would be best for moderate Offroading and help with slippery condition daily driving. Can you turn on an ARB if conditions get crappy and still drive 40mph+? Im not talking super crappy, like 2 inches of snow ect?

Has anybody had any experience with a rear ARB helping in DD lousy conditions? I know i have 1080d a cherokee in 2wd without a locker and am wondering how much it helps. I know to put it in 4wd now when it even hints snow, but it would be nice to lock up the rear and leave it in 2wd if possible
 
a locker would likely make it behave even worse in 2WD. With an open diff it's likely that only one wheel will slip, with a locker if you gas it to much then both wheels are going to break free. Also, when going around a turn with a locker the inside wheel will be the driving wheel, causing the rear to want to "kick" with power in a turn.
Quite frankly I'd say you need to look at your driving habits, 40+MPH in 2 inches of snow?
 
yeah i know, i was giving worse case scenarios. So would a limited SLip be something more up my ally? But in an open diff if you hit an icy spot thats only under 1 wheel and apply throttle that wheel will spin free causing you to lose traction and control. Thats why AWD cars are better in the snow. SO what is the BEST Limeted SLip?
 
Jeeper said:
I would suggest Auburns ected switchable locker. I believe its a locker and a limited slip in one. If you have the buck for an ARB, then you got the buck for an Ected. you can read up on them here.
Let me know if these links dont work.

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/470_496_22_503

http://www.rockcrawler.com/features/newsshorts/03november/reider_ected.asp

Jeeper
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maybe, if you have one of these axles:

F88/ECT28 - Ford 8.8” - All 28 spline
F88/ECT31 Ford 8.8” - All 31spline
F88/ECT31i Ford 8.8”/IFS - All 31spline
GM10/ECT28 GM 8.5” 2.73 and up - 28 spline
GM10/ECT28 GM 8.5” 2.73 and up - 30 spline

i dont see D30, D35, or Chrysler 8.25" 27/29 spline anywhere in there
 
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