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What brand and viscosity oil does everybody use?

I'm supposed to change the oil? Hmm, I don't know what I use.......




























Lol, Valvoline max life, 10w-30.
 
I know this thread is about oil viscosity, but you guys really love the NAPA gold oil filters. What makes them so great? I kind if am stuck on Fram filters because I've used them in the past and now. How about a decent name brand filter and a oil magnet? That's what I use. From what I read, I'm thinking of running a thicker oil than Dino 10W30 instead of adding Lucas which basicly makes your oil thicker anyways and isn't cheap.
 
Big Red said:
I know this thread is about oil viscosity, but you guys really love the NAPA gold oil filters. What makes them so great? I kind if am stuck on Fram filters because I've used them in the past and now. How about a decent name brand filter and a oil magnet? That's what I use. From what I read, I'm thinking of running a thicker oil than Dino 10W30 instead of adding Lucas which basicly makes your oil thicker anyways and isn't cheap.
Wix and napa gold are the same thing. Buy one and then buy the same model fram. Cut the two of the open and look at difference in the wix and fram filter media and the amount of it. I don't think after seeing the results you would ever put a fram on anything again...
 
In my 89 XJ I use Napa 15/40 (year round)oil in my engine and K&N filter and Napa semi-syn gear oil in diffs.
In my 89 caddy I use Moblie 1 Syn 5/30, only because its had it since new, and i go 15000 miles between oil changes and the oil still looks close to new(nice and clear), only problem is that so far K&N doesn't make a oil filter for it.
 
Lil more critical than most. While I have had a long, love-hate relationship w/my 97 4.0 5-spd, when stuff breaks, it breaks bad and isn't cheap for some of us w/o extensive shops and toolage. I went the typical factory route on mine, using 10-w30 for three years, and began to notice a slight, progressive pressure drop, especially @ idle and when warm. got to be real bad, and eventually blew the motor. PITA. went w/a rebuild, and noticed that the pressure was never that good: idle around 25-30, hwy at about 40-45. BUT with 10w-40, pressure consistently went up by 10 # AT LEAST, across the bd. That's significant. I tried synth on the old motor, and press dropped. of course, it had 130k @ the time. it was a yr later that it blew. these are very touchy motors, in spite of the glowing, gushy testaments by people on this site. go thick. it helps.
 
I use Castrol GTX, but just saw a new Castrol at the parts shop, "Cold Start."
Sez it has additives that bond with the metal parts and keeps them slickery. Reminds me of Andy Granitelli and the Sumo wrestler.

Anyone try Cold Start Castrol yet? It might be a good thing. My wife blew up our old VW Bus w/ the 2000 cc engine when she tried to start it when it was 15 below zero one winter morning. Mechanic at the time said that there was little or no lubricant available to the moving parts when she cranked it.
 
MogifiedXJ said:
Wix and napa gold are the same thing. Buy one and then buy the same model fram. Cut the two of the open and look at difference in the wix and fram filter media and the amount of it. I don't think after seeing the results you would ever put a fram on anything again...

Ditto. For me, it's a matter of consistancy. Wix=Napa Gold. Buy a Mopar filter and you will get "whatever is cheaper this buying cycle" with a namebrand paint job.
 
MogifiedXJ said:
Wix and napa gold are the same thing. Buy one and then buy the same model fram. Cut the two of the open and look at difference in the wix and fram filter media and the amount of it. I don't think after seeing the results you would ever put a fram on anything again...

HMMMM... I'll take your word for it. I can see the woman now..."you bought 2 filters you didn't even plan to use and did what... Thats it no more @$#^%#@ for another month." (accompanied with some painful whacks on head and maybe a kick in the balls).
 
wacho4 said:
HMMMM... I'll take your word for it. I can see the woman now..."you bought 2 filters you didn't even plan to use and did what... Thats it no more @$#^%#@ for another month." (accompanied with some painful whacks on head and maybe a kick in the balls).
I'd ask to talk to the manager if that's the way they treat you at the parts counter.
 
MogifiedXJ said:
Wix and napa gold are the same thing. Buy one and then buy the same model fram. Cut the two of the open and look at difference in the wix and fram filter media and the amount of it. I don't think after seeing the results you would ever put a fram on anything again...

I'll take your word for it. How much is the NAPA Gold filter? I pay like $4-5 for the Fram.
 
Big Red said:
I'll take your word for it. How much is the NAPA Gold filter? I pay like $4-5 for the Fram.
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...&PartNumber=1085&Description=Oil+Filter+(Gold)
listed here as 6. My Napa store already has the two filters cut open for everyone to see. big difference

filter-fram-xv.gif

versus
filter-wix.gif
&
filter-wix-xv.gif
 
Last edited:
Big Red said:
I'll take your word for it. How much is the NAPA Gold filter? I pay like $4-5 for the Fram.
They're somewhere in the $5 price range for the stock filter, but I use a Wix number 51773 or Napa Gold 1773 filter for a fullsize ford...it holds about an extra quart now.
 
gmars said:
Lil more critical than most. While I have had a long, love-hate relationship w/my 97 4.0 5-spd, when stuff breaks, it breaks bad and isn't cheap for some of us w/o extensive shops and toolage. I went the typical factory route on mine, using 10-w30 for three years, and began to notice a slight, progressive pressure drop, especially @ idle and when warm. got to be real bad, and eventually blew the motor. PITA. went w/a rebuild, and noticed that the pressure was never that good: idle around 25-30, hwy at about 40-45. BUT with 10w-40, pressure consistently went up by 10 # AT LEAST, across the bd. That's significant. I tried synth on the old motor, and press dropped. of course, it had 130k @ the time. it was a yr later that it blew. these are very touchy motors, in spite of the glowing, gushy testaments by people on this site. go thick. it helps.

I'd say you have other problems than the oil you are using. I use Valvoline 5-30 year round in my 4.0 with 122K miles. At idle the pressure is 25, at speed I get 45-50. I use the BIG Ford filter, #1515 or something like that, it holds 2qts of oil.

I don't think brand is as important as how you treat it and how often you change it. My dad doesn't touch a thing on his cars and really doesn't even notice when small things like lifters go out on him, he just turns up the radio. His Chevy 4.3L in an Astro just turned 250K miles on Jiffy Lube and Wal-Mart oil changes. They get one every 3K like clockwork and the engine is now starting to die on them. That's about 100,000 more miles than the average 4.3 would get and nobody knows what brand of oil is in it, or what will go in next.
 
Other good filter choices are Purolator Premium Plus and Pure One. The Premium Plus outflows K&N, and filters better. Pure One filters way better than most anything.
Take your pick, whether you prefer more flow or more filtering. Maybe. Many think that since the oil pump is positive displacement, it's going to flow the same amount of oil no matter what filter you use. I don't know.
But why pay $10 for something that you can pay $6 for and get better results?
I currently use Napa Gold myself.
 
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