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What brand and viscosity oil does everybody use?

Anyone using Lucas stabalizer with their Dino oil?

I read on the bottle that Lucas is 100% petroleum and bonds to moving parts and to Dino oil, synthetic etc. I'm a believer in seeing how my oil pressure is staying up nice and high even at idle and also the parts store display of the 4 gears where you can see how the Lucas added one has oil around the top plastic gear, whereas without it, the oil doesn't make it up this high (4 gears high in the display).
 
I tried it, it caused lifter noise in my renix with 250K. Went back to regular old 10w40 and tapping went away.
Remember that pressure is not everything, you also must have volume. My oil pressure is quite good with 10W40 anyway, so I don't know what I was thinking.
Without lucas my cold start pressure is 60 pounds, hot idle is 20-25, cruising speed is 40-45.
With lucas the cold start pressure would be at 75, which I'm sure was tripping the pressure relief, warm idle was 30, cruising was 50. I didn't think that an extra 10 pounds of pressure at cruising speed was worth the 5 minutes of lifter tapping and the insane colds start pressures. Seems to be good stuff if you've got a worn motor, but I wouldn't recommend it for those with tight engines making good pressure.
 
87manche said:
I tried it, it caused lifter noise in my renix with 250K. Went back to regular old 10w40 and tapping went away.
Remember that pressure is not everything, you also must have volume. My oil pressure is quite good with 10W40 anyway, so I don't know what I was thinking.
Without lucas my cold start pressure is 60 pounds, hot idle is 20-25, cruising speed is 40-45.
With lucas the cold start pressure would be at 75, which I'm sure was tripping the pressure relief, warm idle was 30, cruising was 50. I didn't think that an extra 10 pounds of pressure at cruising speed was worth the 5 minutes of lifter tapping and the insane colds start pressures. Seems to be good stuff if you've got a worn motor, but I wouldn't recommend it for those with tight engines making good pressure.
Click to expand...

Wow you sure do have high oil pressure, your guage might be giving you false readings. I like Lucas and plan to use it from now on. A little in the diffs and a quart in the engine oil using 5 quarts of Dino oil. It isn't too expensive at around $8-10 quart.

In my 91' AW4 4.0L wheeler I'm around 55 or so at the max at speed and idle around 20 or so (without Lucas). On my 98' AX15 4.0L I idle around 18-22 and am around 42 with lucas at speed.
 
Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30 year round. Used with a Napa Gold filter I've not had one single problem (nor complaint) with it. Noticed the engine runs much smoother (not as much knocking) and I couldnt believe all the crap that came out of my engine that had 67K on it when I switched.
 
FWIW, my '90 4.0 with 265k miles gets Delo 400 15W40 and a Purolator filter every 3000 miles or so. The oil pressure is good at ~50 psi while cruising and around 15 at idle.

The rest of the components get Valvoline products.
 
Big Red said:
Wow you sure do have high oil pressure, your guage might be giving you false readings. I like Lucas and plan to use it from now on. A little in the diffs and a quart in the engine oil using 5 quarts of Dino oil. It isn't too expensive at around $8-10 quart.

In my 91' AW4 4.0L wheeler I'm around 55 or so at the max at speed and idle around 20 or so (without Lucas). On my 98' AX15 4.0L I idle around 18-22 and am around 42 with lucas at speed.
Click to expand...
guage verified with a mechanical shortly after I bought it. It's dead nuts right.
crazy eh? I guess AMC just knew how to build a motor.
 
Root Moose said:
So guys, is there anything to the old line that you shouldn't change from dino to synthetic after X number of miles?
Click to expand...

I've heard this alot too and have wondered how much basis in truth it actually has.
 
I have no scientific evidence, but the idea does make some sense.

Synthetic will have a higher lubricity than common oil (hey, it's made to lubricate and cool, right?) and will probably also have proportionately higher detergents. While not a problem directly (it would keep things cleaner,) as seals wear, they might collect some crud on them that would help them seal - when they normally would not, because they're softer, worn, or slightly pitted.

So, it's much the same thing as when you flush your cooling system good and hard, and find leaks that you never had before. Those leaks (I've heard radiatormen call them "steamers") were sealed up with the scale and crud in your radiator - when you flushed it out, you removed the seal. Thus, the leak.

Mechanically, I don't see any reason why a switch to synthetic would harm anything - but I'd expect to have to do at least a rear main job, if your engine has been accumulating miles. Go ahead and switch - but be prepared to spend a day fixing leaks soon (and, if you don't, then you're just out some preparations, and probalby have some spare parts you'll eventually need anyhow...)

Where would I expect the synthetic to "cause" leaks? At seals between parts in relative motion - rear main, front main, and valve guides. Gaskets should not be a problem - but our engines being what they are, you should probably have a spare valve cover and oil sump gasket handy anyhow (even if you don't switch to synthetic, those factory seals are a pain to deal with...)

5-90
 
John90XJ said:
More info than you would ever care to know can be found here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
Click to expand...

Wow great site, thanks. :D

This answers so many questions. There are so many snake oil products. They don't like Lucas Oil Stabalizer over there. I got it for $6.99/qt, I might bring it back now.
 
Big Red said:
Wow great site, thanks. :D

This answers so many questions. There are so many snake oil products. They don't like Lucas Oil Stabalizer over there. I got it for $6.99/qt, I might bring it back now.
Click to expand...
x2

That is a cool site. I've never seen it before but it looks like alot of really useful info.
 
87manche said:
guage verified with a mechanical shortly after I bought it. It's dead nuts right.
crazy eh? I guess AMC just knew how to build a motor.
Click to expand...

The 4.0L is sure tough as nails, dependable, and durable.
 
MogifiedXJ said:
x2

That is a cool site. I've never seen it before but it looks like alot of really useful info.
Click to expand...

There has been threads here about adding a little Acetone to you gas, which I did but didn't see much improvement in MPG. This oil website swears by Merlin's Mystery Oil (I think that's the name) a 2 ounces/10 gallons. Also Redline SI-10 or something like that to clean and lube etc. Great info. A little reading and using the right lubrication products and maintenance now will go a long way in the future to spare you replacing major drivetrain parts in the future.
 
Thats Marvel Mystery Oil used it back in the late 70's on a 1956 Buick put it in the oil to clean the gunk out smoke like a house on fire but it did a great Job that engine ran real smooth after that.
 
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