PaulJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lynnwood, WA
I'm still sticking with my story about the rear quarter window trim leaking. Personal experience.
-
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wet carpet, take 2. AAAARRRRGH!!
- Thread starter wgregt
- Start date
cracked-butt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Eastern Tenn.
hey greg, found that link i have on my accident & when she looked like before i added sheet metal to the rear floor.
http://www.militaryjeepers.com/community/showthread.php?t=11075
just dont have any of "after" for the inside.
http://www.militaryjeepers.com/community/showthread.php?t=11075
just dont have any of "after" for the inside.
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update:
I pulled the headliner today. And, after getting it out, I'm really surprised. I initially decided it had to come out b/c the LAST row of bolts that runs across the rear of the roof, right by the hatch, had water dripping off the bottom of the bolts on 2 or 3 of the 5 bolts. I could pull the headliner down a couple inches and see it drip and get my finger on it. I put silicone on my finger and smeared that all over the bolts that were wet, but I couldn't get silicone all the way around them.
My thinking was "Well, if THESE are dripping, I know the other 21 in the roof are dripping too. Best to fix these damn things NOW and hopefully finally solve this water thing."
So I dropped the headliner, drove it around a bit, let it sit in the pouring rain outside, then drove it to home depot and back at varying speeds, pulled it back in the garage in the pouring rain, and...
not a single damn one of them were leaking or dripping. All but one of those rubber-coated jack-nuts were drawn up tight and 100% splayed out nicely (one of them can still be pulled up a bit more, which I'll do now that I can actually get to the other side of it .) That rubber watertight seal seems to have worked pretty damn well on those things. I'm really surprised. After dropping the headliner so easily now, I will now tell everyone to do the same when they want to replace the roof rack bolts. Just drop it...if you drop the headliner (15 minute job tops) you could hold these jacknuts from the inside and have a friend tighten the bolts from the top in an hour flat. Not taking the headliner down, it took me about 12 hours total to get all 24 jacknuts installed. It would be 1000% easier and faster, no contest.
So, I'll still coat all the bolts with some sort of silicone or spray rubber undercoating for insurance since I'm in there already. I see that jeep has a channel covering all of these bolts though, so I may have to either cut a hole around each bolt or get a hole saw blade and make them nice and clean with a nice 2" hole around all of them. Might weaken the roof a bit, but shouldn't hurt it much as I'm only taking a bit of the channel out.
I also got some permatex RTV hi-temp (650 degrees) red gasket maker to run a bead around the hole in the floor before I weld the sheet metal over it to try and keep water out, and then try and do something underneath it without R&R'ing the damn muffler. Maybe use some more spray rubber undercoating on it from underneath?
I also got some window gasket sealer, so now I need to R&R those two rear windows. There is definitely water coming in from the one on the passenger side, as I just saw water actively running down the inside of the rear quarter panel. Has to be coming from the window rubber.
I felt inside the roof channels with my fingers (the channels that cover the new roof rack bolts) in varying places and did not feel any water coming in and running down the length of the roof to the rear.
Little by little....
I pulled the headliner today. And, after getting it out, I'm really surprised. I initially decided it had to come out b/c the LAST row of bolts that runs across the rear of the roof, right by the hatch, had water dripping off the bottom of the bolts on 2 or 3 of the 5 bolts. I could pull the headliner down a couple inches and see it drip and get my finger on it. I put silicone on my finger and smeared that all over the bolts that were wet, but I couldn't get silicone all the way around them.
My thinking was "Well, if THESE are dripping, I know the other 21 in the roof are dripping too. Best to fix these damn things NOW and hopefully finally solve this water thing."
So I dropped the headliner, drove it around a bit, let it sit in the pouring rain outside, then drove it to home depot and back at varying speeds, pulled it back in the garage in the pouring rain, and...
not a single damn one of them were leaking or dripping. All but one of those rubber-coated jack-nuts were drawn up tight and 100% splayed out nicely (one of them can still be pulled up a bit more, which I'll do now that I can actually get to the other side of it .) That rubber watertight seal seems to have worked pretty damn well on those things. I'm really surprised. After dropping the headliner so easily now, I will now tell everyone to do the same when they want to replace the roof rack bolts. Just drop it...if you drop the headliner (15 minute job tops) you could hold these jacknuts from the inside and have a friend tighten the bolts from the top in an hour flat. Not taking the headliner down, it took me about 12 hours total to get all 24 jacknuts installed. It would be 1000% easier and faster, no contest.
So, I'll still coat all the bolts with some sort of silicone or spray rubber undercoating for insurance since I'm in there already. I see that jeep has a channel covering all of these bolts though, so I may have to either cut a hole around each bolt or get a hole saw blade and make them nice and clean with a nice 2" hole around all of them. Might weaken the roof a bit, but shouldn't hurt it much as I'm only taking a bit of the channel out.
I also got some permatex RTV hi-temp (650 degrees) red gasket maker to run a bead around the hole in the floor before I weld the sheet metal over it to try and keep water out, and then try and do something underneath it without R&R'ing the damn muffler. Maybe use some more spray rubber undercoating on it from underneath?
I also got some window gasket sealer, so now I need to R&R those two rear windows. There is definitely water coming in from the one on the passenger side, as I just saw water actively running down the inside of the rear quarter panel. Has to be coming from the window rubber.
I felt inside the roof channels with my fingers (the channels that cover the new roof rack bolts) in varying places and did not feel any water coming in and running down the length of the roof to the rear.
Little by little....
bcmaxx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The West Kootenays,B.C. Canada
just a link to one or two of my water problems and repairs. You couldnt see them holes from the underside.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1001463&highlight=rocker
also leaking is rood rack rubber well nuts, cracks in the very rear of the rain gutter and a wee bit from the 1/4 windoe rubbers
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1001463&highlight=rocker
also leaking is rood rack rubber well nuts, cracks in the very rear of the rain gutter and a wee bit from the 1/4 windoe rubbers
Yo BCMAXX-
Thanks for the post. Where'd you get the sound insulating material? I assume it's the square grey sheets you have stuck over (self-adhesive?) the bottom and inner wheel well? Did you notice a difference with it in?
The OTHER gray nicely-cut piece must be padding? Where's you get that? Just to put under your carpet for...?
Right now I've got a hole, and a piece of metal about 3" bigger on all sides to go over it. Maybe I should re-cut to be closer to 1" bigger on all sides to avoid water between the two from underneath?
Man...I looked @ that POR15 stuff. Only available online thru POR? That stuff ain't cheap. How much did it take to do your whole entire rear cargo area?
Thanks for the post. Where'd you get the sound insulating material? I assume it's the square grey sheets you have stuck over (self-adhesive?) the bottom and inner wheel well? Did you notice a difference with it in?
The OTHER gray nicely-cut piece must be padding? Where's you get that? Just to put under your carpet for...?
Right now I've got a hole, and a piece of metal about 3" bigger on all sides to go over it. Maybe I should re-cut to be closer to 1" bigger on all sides to avoid water between the two from underneath?
Man...I looked @ that POR15 stuff. Only available online thru POR? That stuff ain't cheap. How much did it take to do your whole entire rear cargo area?
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Still leaking somewhere. I put it all back together a few weeks ago, and 4 days I checked and the carpet is wet again. Looks like it's not coming from around the window (but I siliconed both sides again anyhow) since the baby powder on the inside is still dry. Looks like it's running down between the inside of the sheet metal and the frame for the cubby hole.
So...the siliconing continues....damn it.
So...the siliconing continues....damn it.
UPDATE: Where to start? Right now I've only got the plastic molded cargo area tray in the back...nothing on top of it at all. Completely empty. I pulled the carpet in the back again since it was wet again. When I put it back after it was dry, I put a sheet of 5 mil plastic on the floor, carpet on top, another sheet of plastic, and the empty cargo tray on top of that. My thinking was that if SOMEHOW water was along the body, at least this would keep it from getting to the carpet. Likewise, if somehow it was dripping from the roof onto the sides and running down, it couldn't get to the carpet since it was sandwiched between the plastic.
Every few days I slide my hand under the tray & plastic, and onto the carpet to check.
And I'll be damned if the carpet wasn't wet AGAIN. Not all over, but along one side about halfway to the back.
Any ideas how the carpet is STILL getting wet? It's been over a year, and still I can't figure this out. All windows are siliconed in & out, and the powder I put around the windows is still dry.
Every few days I slide my hand under the tray & plastic, and onto the carpet to check.
And I'll be damned if the carpet wasn't wet AGAIN. Not all over, but along one side about halfway to the back.
Any ideas how the carpet is STILL getting wet? It's been over a year, and still I can't figure this out. All windows are siliconed in & out, and the powder I put around the windows is still dry.
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Pull the rear side panels and also the moldings holding the headliner, stuff paper in said places and hose your Jeep down. I've got 2 XJ's and both of them had thin cracks in the rear corners of the roof that needed welding.
Does the headliner feel moist at all?
Have you changed the rear hatch weatherstripping btw?
Does the headliner feel moist at all?
Have you changed the rear hatch weatherstripping btw?
I've pulled all the interior panels..every one of them from the rear to the front, even the front doors and all of the trim around the headliner. Also pulled the headliner. I removed all of the bolts for the OEM roof rack and runner strips, and put new jacknuts in, and covered each of the protruding bolts/screws with silicone, as well as the holes.
New weatherstripping as well. Pulled the rear hatch off, realigned the hinges, siliconed around them, and put the hatch back on. It fits real tight.
I put baby powder all around the windows and roof holes while it was still bare metal, had someone hit it with a hose while I sat inside, and drove it thru a carwash with me crawling around in the back looking for leaks.
Baby powder stayed dry (even until today...not a seep around any of the windows), and yet somehow, even with the rear cargo carpet sandwiched between 2 pieces of 5mil plastic sheeting, under a cargo tray liner with not a thing on top of it, still gets wet.
At one time I thought it may be condensation, but from where? It's in the garage @ night. I've checked it with a full-to-the-brim gas tank and empty, thinking that may have something to do with it.
Nope.
Can't figure out how it's getting wet/damp when no water, even if it COULD get inside the jeep, can get to the actual carpet itself since it's encased in sheeting.
And yet, it gets wet/damp.
New weatherstripping as well. Pulled the rear hatch off, realigned the hinges, siliconed around them, and put the hatch back on. It fits real tight.
I put baby powder all around the windows and roof holes while it was still bare metal, had someone hit it with a hose while I sat inside, and drove it thru a carwash with me crawling around in the back looking for leaks.
Baby powder stayed dry (even until today...not a seep around any of the windows), and yet somehow, even with the rear cargo carpet sandwiched between 2 pieces of 5mil plastic sheeting, under a cargo tray liner with not a thing on top of it, still gets wet.
At one time I thought it may be condensation, but from where? It's in the garage @ night. I've checked it with a full-to-the-brim gas tank and empty, thinking that may have something to do with it.
Nope.
Can't figure out how it's getting wet/damp when no water, even if it COULD get inside the jeep, can get to the actual carpet itself since it's encased in sheeting.
And yet, it gets wet/damp.
kevin s
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- cincinnati, ohio
I am going through this as well. I traced it to the left hatch hinge - the roof top one. The silicone inside had deteriorated. I cleaned it up then used an asphaltic strip weatherstripping that I got in a roll from NAPA. It's 2" wide and maybe an 1/8" thick. Put a layer inside the hinge where the spacers are - you'll see what I mean when you get in there - and another piece against the roof surface. Seems to be working.
Oh, a hint for those as stupid as me: remove the hatch struts before you remove the hinge.
Oh, a hint for those as stupid as me: remove the hatch struts before you remove the hinge.