Justpunchit
NAXJA Member #1291
- Location
- Jaffrey, NH
1991 Cherokee for sale. This has been my long going project that has finally seen the end of the road for me. I've driven this cross state daily, drove it 50 miles to wheel, then drove it home with no worries. It's been an awesome rig but I'm just not into it anymore like I was.
Specs: 4.0L, Auto AW4, D30 with Chrysler 8.25, 5) 35" BFGoodrich Mudterrain KM2's and OEM Cupholders.
Body-1991 Cherokee, Mini boatsides, 11g floor, trimmed rear quarters, full frame stiffeners, front crossmember has been trimmed and plated accordingly as well. 97+ mirrors, 97+ wiper arms, 4 week old windshield with update rubber gasket (not shitty metal trim) Also added Lebaron hood vents to aid in cooling (looks OEM not rice). Fuel tank is a year old as well as the filter, pump, sending unit, and all lines. (charcoal canister deleted) Tank is protected by a modified ZJ skid.
Body Harness- 1993 harness with new Engine Control Unit. 1g wiring going to both optima red tops, and to power inverter, starter, alternator, and fuse block, as well as all appropriate grounds. Charging is handled by the upgraded 138amp alternator.
Engine/Trans- 2000 head and block, Engine was COMPLETELY rebuilt 2 years ago, (under 10k miles) with Mopar crank, comp cam, and all new bearings, as well as mopar high volume oil pump. I change oil at 3k miles with Castrol Syntech 10w30 and use a large capacity K&N or Mobile oil filter (whichever is in stock at that moment) Exhaust is 2.25 that I had to re work to fit. Tailpipe is exhaust wrapped and muffler is plated and hard mounted to the unibody to take a hit or 3. Other add ons include 2004 intake, bored throttle body, Accel cap and rotor, MSD ignition coil, K&N FIPK II kit with spare filter, and mechanical fan delete. Replaced with the Taurus fan mod, to aid in keeping things cool there is a 3 row CSF radiator that is less than a year old. Transmission is stock, when I rebuilt the engine I replaced all shift solenoids, filter, front pump seal, and NSS. Also replaced quick clips with hydraulic fittings and hi temp lines going to the aux cooler and back. All mounts were replaced at the time of rebuild as well.
Steering-Turning responsibilities are done by the 4 day old OEM power steering pumped cooled by an aux cooler in front of the radiator. To help turn I've added PSC Hydro assist which is mounted to the over the knuckle 1.5x.250 wall DOM steering links, topped off by 1-ton Chevy Tierod ends (included extras) The box was ported by me and was brand new as of 2 years ago. Also used a WJ pitman arm instead of the XJ due to tieroad/trac bar alignment.
Axles:
Front- HP D30 The housing was stripped of all brackets and was sleeved with 2.50x.250wall DOM to fight against bending, I also added .250" inner c gussets. I used Ballistic Fabrication combo coil spring/ lower control arm bracket kit. I also used a ballistic prefabbed trac bar mount with a 7/8 heim mounting width. Trac bar is a 1.5x.250 DOM bar with a 7/8 heim on the axle side and a 2.63 Ballistic joint on the frame side fitted into a fabrication trac bar bracket welded to the unibody as well as bolted to the OEM locations. All calipers, pads, wheelbearings, tierods, balljoints are 2 years old.(used Moog TRE, and balljoints. And Timken wheelbearings. pads, rotors, calipers are duralast brand) During a routine shakedown yesterday I found play in the drivers side knuckle area either a bad wheelbearing or balljoint. Whichever will be replaced with timken or moog.
Gears are superior 4:88's with a Loc-right lunchbox locker. Covered by a Ballistic diff cover
Shafts are Alloy USA with Spicer ujoints (comes with spares)
Rear- Chrysler 8.25 29 spline Nitro 4:88's welded with OEM 29 Spline shafts (spares incl) has all new bearings, seals, shoes, and drums. (may come with disk brakes) I tucked the shock mounts up as well as added a 3/16th thick truss to keep everything tight. Did a shave to the bottom of the pumkin and matched it to the Blue Torch DIY diff cover.
Transfer case- Np231 with AA SYE Teraflex 4:1 and brand new chain seals and pump. It does leak a little where the two case halfs meet. Both shafts have all new ujoints however could use new centering balls at somepoint.
Suspension- up front... 3.5" RE coils + .75 spacer, with Gabriel ultra white body shocks 8" travel, TNT ylink long arm kit with modified arms (ballistic joints at the axle end instead of rubber) and modified belly pan to combat it from bending. Also used a 1.5" lexan piece on the coil mounts with a 2" longer bump stop to keep the tires from hitting everything.
In the rear... 4" bastard pack with HD Offroad engineering shackle relocation boxes, and re-enforced front leaf mounts. Also used white body Gabriel Ultra shocks. No bump stops at this moment
Tires- 5) 35x12.50R15 BFGoodrich Mud terrain KM/2's all mounted on Pro comp soft 8's 15x8 with I think 4.25 bs. one has a bead lock ring mounted on it but mounted it normal at Rousch creek and never fixed it. One tire (spare) has a tube and is only good for emergency spare tire type business. Tires are at about 60-70% tread with the spare at 80%
Other tidbits/interior mods- All manual windows/locks all doors have had hinges modified for doorless shenanigans when wanted. Doors have been trimmed up 4" in compliance with mini boatside mod. For music it has 4 pioneer speakers (forgot what size and model I had to cut the doors and hatch to have them fit) and a sony head unit with front AUX port all speaker wire has been swapped out for 12g if I remember right. Swapped out huge ass fuel gauge for tach so mileage reads 260xxx miles IIRC. Headliner was replaced last year with black fabric. Above the headliner I tack welded the supports that always rattle and used 3 cans of 3M sound deadening. small interior changes include 97+ shifter handle, and modded front arm rests and 97+ exterior door handles. Front bumper is self fabricated the mounts utilize the 3 OEM holes as well as an extra further down the unibody that goes completely through it. Winch a Smitty Built XRC8 with a Masterpull synthetic line and Ballistic aluminum hawse fairlead. Rear bumper is a cut OEM and for a tow point I flipped an OEM hitch and tied it into the uni body at multiple locations. I have rear 1/4 guards that I have yet to be installed I can add them into the purchase for an extra fee. The truck is equipped with on board air. I used a NEW stock AC compressor that is fed to a 7 gallon tank. One connect point under the hood in the front and another on the tank in the rear. Pressure shut off has an auto shut off at 90 psi. It also has a 3,000 watt power inverter behind the passenger seat. I'm sure I forgot alot in this. I've had this jeep torn apart right down to the body and nothing more. It was something I built to drive all the time and wheel whenever or where ever. I'm very set on the price and really am not looking to trade. I can deliver within 150 miles of Gardner Ma you pay for fuel.
Asking Price- 6,000
How it was purchased...
How it is now.
Here's the complete build to date
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1018453&highlight=rustynail
Specs: 4.0L, Auto AW4, D30 with Chrysler 8.25, 5) 35" BFGoodrich Mudterrain KM2's and OEM Cupholders.
Body-1991 Cherokee, Mini boatsides, 11g floor, trimmed rear quarters, full frame stiffeners, front crossmember has been trimmed and plated accordingly as well. 97+ mirrors, 97+ wiper arms, 4 week old windshield with update rubber gasket (not shitty metal trim) Also added Lebaron hood vents to aid in cooling (looks OEM not rice). Fuel tank is a year old as well as the filter, pump, sending unit, and all lines. (charcoal canister deleted) Tank is protected by a modified ZJ skid.
Body Harness- 1993 harness with new Engine Control Unit. 1g wiring going to both optima red tops, and to power inverter, starter, alternator, and fuse block, as well as all appropriate grounds. Charging is handled by the upgraded 138amp alternator.
Engine/Trans- 2000 head and block, Engine was COMPLETELY rebuilt 2 years ago, (under 10k miles) with Mopar crank, comp cam, and all new bearings, as well as mopar high volume oil pump. I change oil at 3k miles with Castrol Syntech 10w30 and use a large capacity K&N or Mobile oil filter (whichever is in stock at that moment) Exhaust is 2.25 that I had to re work to fit. Tailpipe is exhaust wrapped and muffler is plated and hard mounted to the unibody to take a hit or 3. Other add ons include 2004 intake, bored throttle body, Accel cap and rotor, MSD ignition coil, K&N FIPK II kit with spare filter, and mechanical fan delete. Replaced with the Taurus fan mod, to aid in keeping things cool there is a 3 row CSF radiator that is less than a year old. Transmission is stock, when I rebuilt the engine I replaced all shift solenoids, filter, front pump seal, and NSS. Also replaced quick clips with hydraulic fittings and hi temp lines going to the aux cooler and back. All mounts were replaced at the time of rebuild as well.
Steering-Turning responsibilities are done by the 4 day old OEM power steering pumped cooled by an aux cooler in front of the radiator. To help turn I've added PSC Hydro assist which is mounted to the over the knuckle 1.5x.250 wall DOM steering links, topped off by 1-ton Chevy Tierod ends (included extras) The box was ported by me and was brand new as of 2 years ago. Also used a WJ pitman arm instead of the XJ due to tieroad/trac bar alignment.
Axles:
Front- HP D30 The housing was stripped of all brackets and was sleeved with 2.50x.250wall DOM to fight against bending, I also added .250" inner c gussets. I used Ballistic Fabrication combo coil spring/ lower control arm bracket kit. I also used a ballistic prefabbed trac bar mount with a 7/8 heim mounting width. Trac bar is a 1.5x.250 DOM bar with a 7/8 heim on the axle side and a 2.63 Ballistic joint on the frame side fitted into a fabrication trac bar bracket welded to the unibody as well as bolted to the OEM locations. All calipers, pads, wheelbearings, tierods, balljoints are 2 years old.(used Moog TRE, and balljoints. And Timken wheelbearings. pads, rotors, calipers are duralast brand) During a routine shakedown yesterday I found play in the drivers side knuckle area either a bad wheelbearing or balljoint. Whichever will be replaced with timken or moog.
Gears are superior 4:88's with a Loc-right lunchbox locker. Covered by a Ballistic diff cover
Shafts are Alloy USA with Spicer ujoints (comes with spares)
Rear- Chrysler 8.25 29 spline Nitro 4:88's welded with OEM 29 Spline shafts (spares incl) has all new bearings, seals, shoes, and drums. (may come with disk brakes) I tucked the shock mounts up as well as added a 3/16th thick truss to keep everything tight. Did a shave to the bottom of the pumkin and matched it to the Blue Torch DIY diff cover.
Transfer case- Np231 with AA SYE Teraflex 4:1 and brand new chain seals and pump. It does leak a little where the two case halfs meet. Both shafts have all new ujoints however could use new centering balls at somepoint.
Suspension- up front... 3.5" RE coils + .75 spacer, with Gabriel ultra white body shocks 8" travel, TNT ylink long arm kit with modified arms (ballistic joints at the axle end instead of rubber) and modified belly pan to combat it from bending. Also used a 1.5" lexan piece on the coil mounts with a 2" longer bump stop to keep the tires from hitting everything.
In the rear... 4" bastard pack with HD Offroad engineering shackle relocation boxes, and re-enforced front leaf mounts. Also used white body Gabriel Ultra shocks. No bump stops at this moment
Tires- 5) 35x12.50R15 BFGoodrich Mud terrain KM/2's all mounted on Pro comp soft 8's 15x8 with I think 4.25 bs. one has a bead lock ring mounted on it but mounted it normal at Rousch creek and never fixed it. One tire (spare) has a tube and is only good for emergency spare tire type business. Tires are at about 60-70% tread with the spare at 80%
Other tidbits/interior mods- All manual windows/locks all doors have had hinges modified for doorless shenanigans when wanted. Doors have been trimmed up 4" in compliance with mini boatside mod. For music it has 4 pioneer speakers (forgot what size and model I had to cut the doors and hatch to have them fit) and a sony head unit with front AUX port all speaker wire has been swapped out for 12g if I remember right. Swapped out huge ass fuel gauge for tach so mileage reads 260xxx miles IIRC. Headliner was replaced last year with black fabric. Above the headliner I tack welded the supports that always rattle and used 3 cans of 3M sound deadening. small interior changes include 97+ shifter handle, and modded front arm rests and 97+ exterior door handles. Front bumper is self fabricated the mounts utilize the 3 OEM holes as well as an extra further down the unibody that goes completely through it. Winch a Smitty Built XRC8 with a Masterpull synthetic line and Ballistic aluminum hawse fairlead. Rear bumper is a cut OEM and for a tow point I flipped an OEM hitch and tied it into the uni body at multiple locations. I have rear 1/4 guards that I have yet to be installed I can add them into the purchase for an extra fee. The truck is equipped with on board air. I used a NEW stock AC compressor that is fed to a 7 gallon tank. One connect point under the hood in the front and another on the tank in the rear. Pressure shut off has an auto shut off at 90 psi. It also has a 3,000 watt power inverter behind the passenger seat. I'm sure I forgot alot in this. I've had this jeep torn apart right down to the body and nothing more. It was something I built to drive all the time and wheel whenever or where ever. I'm very set on the price and really am not looking to trade. I can deliver within 150 miles of Gardner Ma you pay for fuel.
Asking Price- 6,000
How it was purchased...
How it is now.
Here's the complete build to date
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1018453&highlight=rustynail
