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Welding a band saw blade, good or bad idea?

My saw has a 3/4"x.032x93"-14TPI blade on it. I think I can get the local Granger dealer to make me up a quality blade cheaper than what Wilton wants for one.
 
If you use it weekly and havent changed the blade in 5 years sounds like you got your money worth. I say if you use it that often then replacing the blade is worth the money so yo dont have to hassle with it again for another 5 years.
 
I welded it up today BUT I had the welder a little hot and I blew through at the teeth. The blade cuts but has a bad skip at the gap. I'm going to cut it again tomorrow and re-weld it. I cut some 3/16" steel today and it did well its just i know that skip is going to equal another break.

It will be an easy fix.
 
 
As a journeyman saw filer I can tell you that wire feed welder will work fine. Dress the weld carefully, and anneal the weld by heating it until it barely turns blue and allow it cool slowly. The 38'x12" bands I worked on were mig welded at the butt welds from the factory. We also used a mig welder to repair cracks in the bands as needed.
 
xjtrailrider said:
After 6 years my Wilton band saw blade snapped. I've used band saw blade welders at work (basically just a spot welder)and its easy but what about using my welder set low and tacking it back together then grinding the weld smooth.

I don't have the money for a new band right now and I have a project to do tomorrow.

Good or bad idea or "worth a try"?
Click to expand...

This is my very first post here and I am just a hobbyist and I want to learn more stuff here. Hope I am in the right place , anyway, in my opinion , I think buying new blade is worth to try. Yes it's true that most people prefer to re weld their broken blades but based on my experience, I'll go for buying new ones. This time you should choose good quality blades.
 
You should be able to find a shop close that will make the blades for you. My saw is a Carolina and an odd width/thickness combo. The local blade shop has the material on hand and can usually have me a new blade within a day.

I keep a couple on hand. If I remember correctly you should have about 3 teeth in contact with the material as it cuts. So if you are cutting 1/4" you would want about a 12 tpi.

I can usually only get 10 tpi or 14 tpi and for some reason I always end up at the 10. Most of what I cut is tube in a .120" thickness and the 10's seem to hold up longer but that could be because I'm feeding the 14 too fast. I don't have a cooler on mine and that contributes as well.

I've seen some 10-12 variable and 12-14 (I believe). I think both of those would be a good blades to have.
 
Lincoln said:
You should be able to find a shop close that will make the blades for you. My saw is a Carolina and an odd width/thickness combo. The local blade shop has the material on hand and can usually have me a new blade within a day.

I keep a couple on hand. If I remember correctly you should have about 3 teeth in contact with the material as it cuts. So if you are cutting 1/4" you would want about a 12 tpi.

I can usually only get 10 tpi or 14 tpi and for some reason I always end up at the 10. Most of what I cut is tube in a .120" thickness and the 10's seem to hold up longer but that could be because I'm feeding the 14 too fast. I don't have a cooler on mine and that contributes as well.

I've seen some 10-12 variable and 12-14 (I believe). I think both of those would be a good blades to have.
Click to expand...

ah, you have one of the gypsy saws too, huh? i have one as well. pretty easy to find blades for it online.
 
Vanimal said:
ah, you have one of the gypsy saws too, huh? i have one as well. pretty easy to find blades for it online.
Click to expand...

You are assuming I actually plan ahead. I've never had much trouble getting a blade but sometimes I don't get the best selection.
 
Well my fix finally gave up. My band broke in the middle of fabricating a Canoe/Kayak rack for our MJ.

I went to Grainger and picked up a Morse band that is not a "raker" its more of a finish cut blade but I'm not doing production so I can slow down my feeds. I used it for a whole bunch of cuts this morning and it works really good. Very little grinding to do after the cut.

For $50 I'll just buy a new band every couple of years, no more welding blades unless its the weekend and I got to make some cuts/can't get a band.
 
machine1960 said:
This is my very first post here and I am just a hobbyist and I want to learn more stuff here. Hope I am in the right place , anyway, in my opinion , I think buying new blade is worth to try. Yes it's true that most people prefer to re weld their broken blades but based on my experience, I'll go for buying new ones. This time you should choose good quality blades.
Click to expand...

I had a Lennox 14tpi raker, I bought a Morse 10-14tpi variable.

The raker is a ripper type band, fast rough cuts, the variable band is more for a finish cut and slower.
 
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