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Welding a band saw blade, good or bad idea?

xjtrailrider

xjtrailrider

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Roanoke VA
After 6 years my Wilton band saw blade snapped. I've used band saw blade welders at work (basically just a spot welder)and its easy but what about using my welder set low and tacking it back together then grinding the weld smooth.

I don't have the money for a new band right now and I have a project to do tomorrow.

Good or bad idea or "worth a try"?
 
I say no, but only because band saws scare the crap out of me. One too many close calls with em.
 
After much research I have found that most home use bands are silver soldered/brazed and not welded. I think that is mostly because most home shops do not have a welder handy and you can silver solder/braze with a MAP gas/propane or butane torch since the metal is thin.

I can silver solder/braze but I trust welding the joint together since that is how they come from the supplier.

Looks like i will fire up the Hobart 125 today and fix a blade. i will let you all know how it goes.
 
blades are relatively cheap. chances are harbor freight has one for 10-15 bucks. even the decent lennox bi metal blades i get for my bandsaw in my machine shop are only like 45 bucks. worth your safety IMO, i never bother repairing mine and i go through 2-3 a month at times.
 
the problem I see with using a typical MIG welder to repair the blade is that it will create a weakspot at the edge of the HAZ. I could see doing it with a spot welder, maybe TIG, but it would be the metal around the weld that would be the issue. the blade welders on band saws dont eally "weld" the blade together so much as it uses fushsion to join them.
 
Vanimal said:
blades are relatively cheap. chances are harbor freight has one for 10-15 bucks. even the decent lennox bi metal blades i get for my bandsaw in my machine shop are only like 45 bucks. worth your safety IMO, i never bother repairing mine and i go through 2-3 a month at times.
Click to expand...

I will buy a new blade if i can get one that cheap! My blade is 7' 2" long

Original_MudButt said:
If you do try and weld it, you will need to anneal it afterward...

I'm thinking a propane torch??
Click to expand...

I was thinking this as well, if i don't anneal it, it will probably break again just past the weld

foxwar71 said:
the problem I see with using a typical MIG welder to repair the blade is that it will create a weakspot at the edge of the HAZ. I could see doing it with a spot welder, maybe TIG, but it would be the metal around the weld that would be the issue. the blade welders on band saws dont eally "weld" the blade together so much as it uses fushsion to join them.
Click to expand...

I agree
 
xjtrailrider said:
I was thinking this as well, if i don't anneal it, it will probably break again just past the weld
Click to expand...

Unless you anneal it, it will break. No doubt about it...

Regardless of the method you choose, make sure the heat affected area is spotlessly clean. Use sandpaper to make sure both sides of the blade are shiny bright, and clean the whole area with acetone prior to welding....
 
Last edited:
Vanimal said:
sure it isnt 72"? that seems like an odd size.....
Click to expand...

This is an industrial saw. I don't have the owners manual but the previous owner has written in sharpie, "blade length 7'2inch"

It converts from vertical to horizontal. I love this saw! Very handy!

1003101137.jpg


1003101133.jpg
 
ChiXJeff said:
Looks like: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-inch-x-12-inch-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-bandsaw-97009.html

The manual says that one takes a 93" blade. A 7' 2" blade is 86" long. 5" seems like a lot of difference.

Edit: EReplacementparts.com lists a 93" blade for a Wilton 3400 bandsaw.
Click to expand...

The model number is missing on mine. I bought it at a yard sale for $75. The guy I bought it from got it at Granger, it was damaged in shipping and he got a deal on it. Its missing the coolant pump but i just use some WD-40 while cutting. I bought 5 years ago and I have never had to replace the blade. I use it weekly!
 
Gimme a break, I haven't gotten through my first cup of coffee.

Oh, and Merry XMas.
 
xjtrailrider said:
The model number is missing on mine. I bought it at a yard sale for $75. The guy I bought it from got it at Granger, it was damaged in shipping and he got a deal on it. Its missing the coolant pump but i just use some WD-40 while cutting. I bought 5 years ago and I have never had to replace the blade. I use it weekly!
Click to expand...
$75, minus coolant pump? That's a steal.
 
I looked up the Wilton 3400 and that is my saw except mine converts to vertical and came with a table that bolts on quickly, just change the stop out for a table.

$65 for a blade from Ereplacement parts
 
This doesn't do you any good today, but it might be a good idea to take your current blade in to a shop to match it up so you know just what you've got.

BTW, there are huge differences between blades. Material and TPI as well as cheap vs. $$$.
 
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