Before we get too far into this...
Did you clean the engine BEFORE you added the dye, and only run it for a bit? A valve cover leak can present as a head gasket - but the dye should help to narrow down the location.
The head is not difficult to remove and re-install, but do take a moment to check the heads of the studs for paint marks - if you see any, GET NEW HEAD BOLTS! If you aren't sure, get new bolts. If you reuse the bolt, PAINT THEM (colour doesn't matter, but it should be fairly bright and obvious.) The 242 head bolts can only be reused ONCE - they're likely to fail if you torque them down a third time.
Also, make sure you have some Teflon paste or LocTite PST (Pipe Thread Sealer) - you'll want to use it on the driver's side front bolt, since it goes into the water jacket. Installing that bolt dry is a great way to get a coolant leak.
I've found it helpful to unbolt the manifold collector (two bolts,) then unbolt the head, and remove the head and manifolds all at once. Service the manifold gasket on the bench, and install as a unit - if you are able. You'll probably want help, or want to be fairly large (the assembled head and manfolds mass about 60-80#, and being two feet long doesn't help.) If you get help, make DAMN SURE they can follow instructions IMMEDIATELY and AS GIVEN - you're ultimately responsible for any repairs to your vehicle, which means you must be in control of things...
Get a 9/16" universal socket (short socket with inbuilt universal joint) for servicing the manifold bolts - it will help, even on the bench.
I believe the head bolts are 16m/m (threaded 1/2-13 - maybe 11/16" then) and you can get a "mid" length socket from Sears for that driver's side rear bolt. Either that, or unbolt the transmission and jack up the tailshaft, which will give you some clearance at the firewall.
It's not a difficult job, technically speaking, but you should keep your head screwed on good and straight, and have a manual handy. Clean the mating surfaces with either Scotch-Brite or a brass brush - anything more aggressive can cause trouble. I might use some very mild sandpaper - 400 grit or 600 grit ON A BLOCK - but the Scotch-Brite is just about best. Likewise on the manifold sealing surfaces - and you can use the "spent" SB on the valve cover - head and cover.
Any other questions? When you do this enough, you stop thinking about it, and you miss things when you start explaining them instead...
5-90